What is the exact point gap or dwell? I mean no disrespect, but are you familiar with how to set points? Sounds like similar problems I had a long time ago it it was the gap that had changed. Carb and dizzy problems are very similar, and most everyone (me included) fiddles with the carb first, then learns to get the dizzy correct THEN play with the carb.
reweb":2ofag2bl said:
Yes, the "pink resistor wire" is the Ballast Resistor. It is intended to give you the full voltage (+/- 13.5 V) when starting, then gradually reduce to around 7.5 V when the wire heats up. Rather than giving it a full 12+ Volts, feed the juice through and External Ballast Resistor.
It makes sense now. You're not getting a good spark because you have a bad ballast resistor, and that can account for your fouled plugs. Once you verify this, rewire around the pink resistor, and run the juice through the external resistor. The question will then remain, why are you frying the ballast resistors? Good luck!
Mercury Mike
Famous Member
I think someone's right on on the plug gap problem... =) The posts inside the distributor are on a eliptical spinning plate and when you grab them with pliars and turn them, it will up the tension on the springs, allowing the rotor to return to it's proper starting point. Car will die on deceleration if that is improperly adjusted, happened to me. =P Once you get that, make sure you re-adjust the points, and that the rotor isn't bouncing around. If I were you I'd get a pertronix set up and go out driving and enjoy my car. =P
A
Anonymous
Guest
I think I fixed it. I did a bunch of work today.
I checked the hot side of coil with the car running and it had 10.5 volts, as it should. So it isn’t the resistor wire after all.
I took off top of carb to confirm float was not stuck etc.
Installed new plug wires just incase.
Wiggled all wires with car running and checked spark from coil to block. Strong spark...It is a new coil...
Re-checked point gap again...
Finally I bought a vacuum gauge as directed. Car had about 17 inches of vacuum (barely in the late ignition timing zone) but needle moved around some and car idled like crap. I timed the car with vacuum gauge hooked up (t'd into pcv hose by the way) I was able to get 20 inches and steady needle by moving distributor + messing with fuel air mixture + carb idle.
I drove the car and it seems to be running good!
I checked the timing with the light after getting it to run good and the light says I am off the scale there (whatever you call that thing) and below it about an inch. Means my harmonic balancer moved? Or could it be something worse like a jumped timing chain or something. Once again this is a fresh rebuilt engine....Also, would timing off in this direction make the car appear to run rich?
Thanks for all of the help! I may have fixed this thing?
It was a battle let me tell you....Beer time!
I checked the hot side of coil with the car running and it had 10.5 volts, as it should. So it isn’t the resistor wire after all.
I took off top of carb to confirm float was not stuck etc.
Installed new plug wires just incase.
Wiggled all wires with car running and checked spark from coil to block. Strong spark...It is a new coil...
Re-checked point gap again...
Finally I bought a vacuum gauge as directed. Car had about 17 inches of vacuum (barely in the late ignition timing zone) but needle moved around some and car idled like crap. I timed the car with vacuum gauge hooked up (t'd into pcv hose by the way) I was able to get 20 inches and steady needle by moving distributor + messing with fuel air mixture + carb idle.
I drove the car and it seems to be running good!
I checked the timing with the light after getting it to run good and the light says I am off the scale there (whatever you call that thing) and below it about an inch. Means my harmonic balancer moved? Or could it be something worse like a jumped timing chain or something. Once again this is a fresh rebuilt engine....Also, would timing off in this direction make the car appear to run rich?
Thanks for all of the help! I may have fixed this thing?
It was a battle let me tell you....Beer time!
Vann":mmu6nojy said:
I think I want some nice, hot German Glüwein.
´
grocery getter
Famous Member
one more thing 
if the timing chain is stretched the timing will retard when you let off of the gas. sometimes so bad sometimes it will stall. easy to check, set up the light. rev it to 3000 and let off. the mark should smoothly come back to it's set point. if it drops below then recovers you likely have a stretched chain. another thing that makes the mark jump around is a worn distributor bushing.
you mentioned the rebuild. what was done, who did it and what brand parts? did it run really good after or has it always been a little off?
if the timing chain is stretched the timing will retard when you let off of the gas. sometimes so bad sometimes it will stall. easy to check, set up the light. rev it to 3000 and let off. the mark should smoothly come back to it's set point. if it drops below then recovers you likely have a stretched chain. another thing that makes the mark jump around is a worn distributor bushing.you mentioned the rebuild. what was done, who did it and what brand parts? did it run really good after or has it always been a little off?
It appears he is running points? I see no mention of a dwell meter to confirm the setting? Gap is good for a ballpark but worn cam or bushings really screw up the performance. If the bushings are shot or there is a bad lobe the reading will tend to jump around on the meter. I dont remember the mechanics of those but I have worked on dizzys that the advance plate tends to float around causing the dwell to float.
