Spark Plugs

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I drive my '64 Comet 200 I6 about 120 miles a day, 5 days a week [unless I work the weekend]. I change my oil and plugs every month. Now I keep track of my engine performance looking at the condition of the plugs. The plugs come out looking good. I have a spare set for alternate installation. I sandblast them at work and my buddies are giving my shit about how cheap I am. Besides the obvious, how long is a spark plug good for?...ZZ
 
:? sorry i'm not much help but i know my dad sandblasted his spark plugs for awhile there when his engine wasn't running right and let me tell you...it's much cheaper than buying new plugs all the time!!!!!!atta boy!!! :wink:
 
Don't let those guys give you a hard time. What you're doing is the best way to keep you engine running smooth.

Those plugs will last as long as the resistance is not too high and you keep a nice sharp edge on the center and side electrodes. If I remember correctly, each plug should measure approx. 4K ohm or less (resistor plug?). That’s measured at either end through the middle.

With a healthy system you can also open up the plug gap. It’s been several years since I’ve run less that .055.

Have fun, Ric.
 
HowdyZZ:

A spark plug will last as long as the materials in it function as planned. Properly tuned, correct heat range, manufactured to specifications and made of quality materials, the typical $1.69 spark plug will last indefinitely.

The typical plug usually deterioates over time due to carbon build up, oil fouling, preignition, heat, gas contaminants. Usually the electrode wears away. VERY few mechanics working today even know about sand blasting and regapping plugs. If the book says, " change plugs ever 10,000" They change them and never question what condition the old one are in.

Today's engines, with computerize fuel management systems are schedules to go 50,000 on a plug change. These plugs do have some upgrade materials in them.

In your case, if you plugs are clean and nice and within a .001" of set gap, try going two month between check. No point in wearing them out sand blasting them. On a clean running engine, checking and regapping the plugs twice a year is adequate. If you want to try someting, try running a one step hotter plug in the winter month, for quicker starting, cleaner running through the choke cycle.

That's my 2 cents.

Adios, David
 
I researched the spark plug situation in that Falcon booklet that is advertised on this web-site. I found a hotter plug with Champion. I also use an Autolite for a change up. Thanx for the input...ZZ
 
8) cleaning teh plugs once a month is fine, but i would only sand blast them if the deposits are really bad. what we used to do on the racecar was soak them in carb cleaner over night as needed. autolite tend to be the best as far as i can tell. also after cleaning them, run a small file over the gap surfaces to sharpen the edges.
 
One more thing about reconditioning plugs:

open the gap and file the end of the center electrode flat with a points file, then re-gap. The sharp edges of the plug's center electrode will fire at about 10% lower voltage, giving a longer, hotter spark. This is the primary reason that new plugs work better than old ones, and this is the first wear point on a new plug.
 
I have been cleaning and re-gapping plugs for years on my VW engines. Two sets in rotation will last at least 50,000 miles when all is running right. I found a nifty tool for filing points and plug gaps. It is a small pocket model diamond knife sharpener made by Eze-Lap. Those tungsten VW points will just chew up a normal point file, but I've been using this diamond hone for about five years now. Works great on spark plugs too :) . My 300 six has breakerless ignition, so don't need it there :D This knife hone cost about $6.00 five years ago, yup, I'm a tightwad :wink:
 
Get you a set of Bosch Platinum plugs from advanced - they'll run you about $8-$12 and you can forget about them!!!

If you do keep the ones you've got, I would be careful about sandblasting them too much, only when there are Really Bad deposits
 
I'm with Levi, get the Bosch Platinums, and leave them in for as long as your gas mileage doesn't deteriorate. I try to maintain accurate mileage records, and check when mileage drops. 8)
Some may argue the point, but the combination of the Bosch plugs and a Pertronix Ignitor was actually found to improve horsepower and mileage in a tests done by one of the Mustang mags. 8)
In my case, the plugs, Ignitor, and Mobil 1 Synthetic resulted in a gas mileage jump from indicated 18 to 24 MPG. :D
 
I 've thought about trying the Platinums but wondered if they are really worth it. I may do that when I finally get my 300 jetted correctly, which I am slowly making progress on. I do believe in pulling the plugs periodically for inspection, it is about the only window available to the inside of the engine. If you leave spark plugs in an aluminum head too long they can be difficult to remove :cry: I have kept very accurate records on my 68 Bug, have recorded every gallon of fuel, etc. This is my daily drive to work car, 44 miles one way, year 'round. It would be a good test bed for fancy ignitions and so forth as I have six years of baseline data. Only change one thing at a time though. I may also try some synthetic oil just for kicks. I only drive my F-350 w/300-6 when I need to haul stuff, it burns more gas than my Bug. I have never used sandblasting to clean plugs, if the engine is burning clean they don't foul much with unleaded gas. I just use solvent and a toothpick, then file and re-gap. It works for me :)
Lazy JW
 
One thing I've encountered is a limited selection of 18mm spark plugs. Most of the newer designs are 14mm.

One way to fix that is to get a set of plug adapters like the ones available fromGarrett Machine.

A light coat of anti-seize helps if you plan to leave the plugs in for a long time and is a must if you are dealing with alloy heads.
 
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