Spark Plugs

[xrwagon]

I have the Six Handbook, in the ever need for improvements they mention a longer tip spark plug for better firing in the chamber but don’t mention brand or part number, also one range colder, being in Australia can anyone point me in the right direction? I also have gone quicker in my wagon, ran my first 11 on the weekend followed by 2 more quicker ones, thats an unopened 46 year old motor and bolt ons. I have done a cold air intake into the original air cleaner housing and the track is closer to sea level, so i went from 12.005 to a 11.967. My sixty footers were better also, in the 2.4’s

 

[wsa111]

NGK iridium WR51X stock # 7510 & gap them at .050" if running a stout ignition system. There are 18mm.
Bill

 

[xrwagon]

thanks mate

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

No Offense to Bill But Rare earth element Electrode Plugs have no effect on HP potential , they do drain your wallet , good old Autolite copper plugs work as well as anything out there , That being said if you plan on NOT changing your plugs till at least 75000+ miles , Platinum and iridium have their place , I have done and witnessed at least 20 Dyno tests and Drag strip tests that prove that they are are NO benefit for power , also Gaps over .036 are of no benefit other than they help fire a TOO lean mixture , spend what you want my 250 tri power had Autolite 45 Plugs and .03 gaps

 

[wsa111]

No offense to Faron, but street drive ability is improved on many engines. It also takes less voltage to fire them.
Not recommended on supercharged engines that are going to be raced, cause in case of detonation the hardened electrodes are not friendly to piston tops if they break off.
I would highly recommended them for street use. Racing use very very limited.
Since 95% of the forum just uses there vehicles for street use the above would apply.
I prefer NGK or Denso plugs for most applications.
The autolites seem to run hotter in the plug heat range than the others.
If you own a mustang in the 2005-2008? year range Champion & the new Motorcrafts are a one piece plug to use compared to the oem two piece plugs that break off when trying to remove them.

 

[xrwagon]

mine is raced, i have done 6 meetings in under 12 months with 4 more coming up, including this weekend, so i am looking to extract as much as i can from my old girl, steady as she goes its has gotten quicker every single meeting without opening the motor, just minor improvements, plus i am looking for bracket racing consistency, there is just over 50 cars entered in my class over 4 rounds, i am coming tied on 14th place, one round to go, i may go top 5 if the chariot is consistent and goes 3 rounds, any other small things? my list includes header wrap, maybe a spacer under the carb to help with heat mainly these two mods, she hasn’t been close to pinging so maybe another point of timing in my DUI may help, i run 0.036 gap now and have NGK brand plugs but not extended tip ones

 

[bubba22349]

I also like the Autolite Copper plugs for the drags too, pull out your street plugs and try a fresh set of Autolite's, at the drags 1 or 2 ranges colder than stock. Couple of more things you can try to get the last little bit out of it, besides the extended tip plugs is to side gap the ground straps, and index all the plugs. Good luck at the drags

Edit: I think that the stock Plugs Ford used or recommend in their engines back then (around 1964 - 67 the 0ld Autolite BF82) these where the extended tip type roughly they were about .200 - .250 longer then the earlier standard plug lengths.

 

[xrwagon]

cheers mate, i’ll let you know, i have indexed before, i might pull the plugs Friday and have a look, read them and go from there.

 

[wsa111]

In your use of the vehicle, you best stick with the copper core plugs.
You can trim the end of the side electrode so it ends just at the center of the center electrode.
This exposes the spark rather than being shrouded by the side electrode.