still smoking..

If you still have under 500 miles on the rebuilt bottom end (aka short block), then I wouldn't worry about further diagnosing the smoking until you've got a good head gasket properly installed. I'm not clear on your mileage, because at one point when I asked you said about ~50 miles, but then the next post or day indicated ~350. The ability to get the rings to finish seating will be diminished with more running on an improperly sealed engine. See Jackfish's post on the limited window to get the rings to seat.

Again, I wouldn't assume the rings are 'toasted' yet, because you just got the improper pcv system set-up corrected, and you still have a compromised head gasket...even if it 'looks' like it is sealing for now...both will limit the seating of the rings.

Re-torqueing the head bolts will get you by for now, but they should all be installed with a fresh gasket according to torque procedures in the Ford Shop Manual...in other words that gasket has been compromised. I would refrain from driving it until you get a new head gasket properly installed. Good luck (y)
 
For clarification, the block and head have ~350 miles. The 50 miles was describing the break in. Sorry about the confusion
 
With all of this smoking I'll guess all the plugs look black. In a effort to narrow it down to which or which ones cylinder are causeing this I'd install new plugs and then pull them after say 50 miles to see which one(s) are the cause.
 
72maverick":n9axpm2x said:
For clarification, the block and head have ~350 miles. The 50 miles was describing the break in. Sorry about the confusion
Click to expand...

8) thanks for clarifying. Given that, I don't think I'd quite make the jump to re-ring the pistons...it may prove necessary, but that may also be something the machine shop, who rebuilt the block, would warranty for you :unsure::

Also, I'd be sure to complete the setup you pcv with correct connections while you're at it. IIWIYS I'd go ahead and drill & tap the webber carb adapter base for a pcv hose barb. The log is fine for a test, but I think it's more efficient to connect closer to the carb's venturi(s)...higher velocity closer to the carb base and better mixture of re-circulated crank case gases. The log connection might tend to distribute heavily to the middle cylinders (#3 & #4).

Be sure you have a 'good' positive crank case valve installed (if it's an older one go ahead and replace it...maintenance item).

Make sure you have a baffle inside the valve cover where the pcv attaches that prevents liquid oil from being drawn thru the pcv to the carb base, and be sure you have a good flowing cap with open mesh filter element at the oil fill to let in fresh air...unless you have a closed system (not sure of stock setup in 1972):
pcv_flow.jpg


The difference between this closed system and an open system is the cap & fresh air source. On a closed system, fresh air is routed from the air breather into the valve cover thru a connection on the oil fill cap.

On an open system fresh air is draw from the engine compartment thru the cap that has a filter element built into it, like this...
abc042.jpg


PCV needs to be setup with all requisite components, whether you run an open or a closed system. I'd still recommend running a higher, straight weight oil with some STP oil treatment after you replace the bad head gasket, plus a run-in of 20-30mins at rpms of 2-3k to give the rings a chance to seat. This will give you the best shot at seating the rings given there is only 350 miles on the rebuilt block. As broncoman mentioned, plug reads after this work is completed will be the best indicator of how you've done (note you'll need to make sure you're not confusing rich running for oil fouling).

It may turn out the rings are shot, miss-installed, or other, so you could just change the rings while you have the head off, but this is not easily done with the engine in the car and may be something you're not comfortable tackling on your own.
Good luck!
 
Noticed my valve seals were not umbrella or viton. They are some double o-ring things. Do these belong on a ford? My grandpa is convinced they don't belong there and he's rebuilt and overhauled several of these motors in his day
 
72maverick":3rqrljdc said:
Noticed my valve seals were not umbrella or viton. They are some double o-ring things. Do these belong on a ford? My grandpa is convinced they don't belong there and he's rebuilt and overhauled several of these motors in his day
Click to expand...

It sounds like they used the wrong valve stem seals. The seals should be the umbrella style (pictured in a previous post to this thread). Viton is type of material, the stock type are made of rubber. Ones made of Viton should seal better, but either way the "umbrella" should shroud or cover the entire valve stem 'boss'.

If it doesn't shroud the entire boss then you can experience oil entering the cylinder between valve stems and the valve stem guides...
oil_consumption_valve_guide_seals.jpg
 
72maverick":16nvgsx3 said:
So this could explain burning oil


http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/pics/vseals_b.jpg
it looks like the one on the far right
Click to expand...

of Those in the pic I prefer any of the 3 on the right. Never really liked the Teflon seals on anything. (Machining & special install tools,.....)

I have seen those type of seal run with out the bottom metal spring when it doesn't want to grab the lower guide boss tight. THan what you basically have is more like the stock type of seal.
Now they could have install new seals but have some "New guy" assemble the heads and then if he doesn't set he travel correct on the valve spring compressor then he mashes the seal (which cuts it) in between the retainer and guide boos. Then it worse than having no seals at all.
Also it is possible to be using oil and smoking bad and the plugs be as clean as a pin. This happens when the bad seals are only on the exh side and the oil doesn't get into the chamber but only into the exh system.
 
"The smoke from the tail pipe is under acceleration and deacceleration."

"So this could explain burning oil."

I notice this often on our site. Is one valve seal company's product better for our motors than another or one installation method worse?
Thanks.
 
72maverick":2dislvlg said:
My grandpa thinls the umbrella types are the only type to put on these motors
Click to expand...

I agree with him. However any in that pic are "umbrella style" seals compared to the Brand "C" O-ring seals.
 
:unsure: In my Opinion those seals also work excellent (have used them as well as the umbrella type in many rebuilds) if they are in good condition as the picture shows they would not be the cause of your smoking.
 
Probably not gasket or guides though to 100% rule them out would require taking it apart for measuring and inspection. Its looking more like it would be the rings to me. :nod:
 
Well I know oil is being pushed out from the passenger side and coolant from the driver side between head and block
 
Yes that's something that needs to be fixed too, but it would not be a cause for oil fouling the plugs and smoking out your tail pipe.
 
Last thing I was hoping for. Guess I'll see how far my help is willing to help me with this and what we decided. Right now bolts, gaskets, and pcv. Maybe another break in sorta deal to try and seat the rings. Then worry about the rings being bad
 
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