still smoking..

:unsure: Have you talked with the rebuilder who did the short block? Seams like they should take care of it with so little mileage.
 
The shop only did the head not the block. We picked the block up from a private seller. Should have gone through it then
 
Just another think that may not be a concern, I noticed a small tap when the engine tan. At first I thought it was a metal clamp hitting the valve cover. Could this be a bad lifter? The lifters where never used but I don't know how long they sat
 
If you are using adjustable lifters with a later cam, they hit the later valve cover, creating a tapping noise.

How are you going after the wiring and igntion matters of the last few months?

TusconHooligan had similar issues with vehicle smoking, common with Weber carbs. That, ad stalling on turns.The carbs sometimes come fromte supplier with 2000 Pinto or 2300 Lima 4 cyl emulsions tubes and sometimes that creates a white haze due to the postions of the holes in the tubes in the carb. You can change these to the recomended Holley Weber 5200 items used in the 171 cubic inch Capri, something like an F2, (not a DCOE F2, but a special discontined Ford item used on all 155 and 171 Capri 2600 and 2800's and Mustang II's with the 2800, perhaps some of the last Pinto 2.8's got it as well). They are around on 1974 to 1980 Ford 2.6 and 2.8 V6's which still have the stock 5200 series Holley weber 2-bbl on them. F50's, a very common and still listed stock 183 cubic inch British 183 cube and German 171 cube V6 engine emulsion tube, may also help.

One other thing. I admire your Classic Inlines dual snorkel intake. Are the K&N Filters the RF 1048 like this

KampNRF1048.jpg


http://www.knfilters.com/search/product ... od=rf-1048


They are a standard aftermarket Viper 8.4 set up
K&N Universal Filter - Round Cone Filter (RF-1048)

Universal Air Filter
Cone Filter
Metal Top
Base OD : 7.5in(191mm)
Flange Angle : 0 degrees
Flange Diameter : 6in(152mm)
Flange Length : 0.625in(16mm)
Flange Offset : 0in(0mm)in
Length : 6in(152mm)
Top OD : 4.5in(114mm)

KN-69-2527TTR-Installed-580x435.jpg


I am doing an under scoop conversion for my 250 Fox, and your filters look like they will package on Kens 1970 250 L code Mustang as well
 
Well the guy who was doing the wiring had a death in the family so things where put on stop for a while. And I do like that picture
 
72maverick":1oujt8bg said:
Well the guy who was doing the wiring had a death in the family so things where put on stop for a while. And I do like that picture


Sorry to hear that. Life or the lack of it, often intersects with a good plan

The twin k&N's, on anything in particular, but certainly the Viper, always look to me like a Giant Crab Spider ready to pounce...

crab-spider-illustration_110x110.jpg
 
Ah, so you have the 2.5" version of the K&N RR3001,3002, 3003.

Normally they come in like this in Mikes so called 5.5 size

Base Outside Diameter: 6 in (15,2 cm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 3 in (7,6 cm)
Flange Length: 1.75 in (4,4 cm)
Flange Type: Centered
Height: 5 in (12,7 cm)
Top Outside Diameter: 5.25 in (13,3 cm)

rr3001copia.jpg


I can't find the 2.5" Listing, but Mikes price is exceptional. http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... AF&cat=122

Would you recomend them?
 
If you dig the look, by all means. My girlfriend calls it the robot with hugging arms. I went for the black hat with polished fins because I loved the look. I was considering the 5" but it was hard enough for mine to fit with the 2.5" filters. When I pop the hood, most people go "Whoa!" So to me, that is always nice to hear. I know when I pop the hood I love the way it looks. Another reason I went with that air cleaner is that the the it doesn't go against the engine symmetry, or compliment it (if that makes sense), and I sorta like that oddness of the orientation.

Also, I believe the 2.5" listing is just in the drop down menu.
 
The 2.5 is a special K&N listing, and Mike doesn't show us what K&N listing either the 5.5" or 2.5" is. Not that I'm complianing. Certainly not at that price. I just use the K&N list so that I can get the sizes right because I'm using one for Kenneth's 1970 Mustang 250, (if he likes it and can get it easily, that is).

In any case, what you have lookes great.

I see you are runnig the big four stud football converter exhast on your car, and it looks like you have a cable throttle and no kickdown linkage.

after.jpg

If so, how does it go?
 
The cable throttle has caused a few problems. It made for an easy conversion but I'm not sure how much I trust it. I've had to replace it once already. and it drives better than when I first got the car with the kick down, but I'm not sure if that means all that much since it was running fairly poor when I got it. I'm sure It'd run a little better with the kick down. It shifts a bit late, but it doesn't buck like it used to
 
:unsure: Hi 72maverick.Was just looking at the pictures of the valve seals again.Was there machine work done on the area where valve seals seat?Looks like they are the type that are supposed to seat on the valve guide boss.Hope that I have the terminology correct.If the seals are not properly installed,they won`t seal,AND you just might have some retainer/seal contact that would possibly produce a clicking sound.Hey X.Your eyes are younger than mine.Would you take a close look at the seals,and the way that they are installed?Thanks.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
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