Still working on this engine.... questions?

[Anonymous]

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So much to do... so little time....

Today was a long day under the hood...
I managed to get the AC bracket fixed and hooked up, installed the intake on the 2v, and primed the oil system... it was a delight to see the oil burp up out of the rockers.... (the drill with a 1/4 socket and extension worked great...)


Here are my problems.... (for today)

1. The 250 2v does not have the same temp sending unit as the 69 log head I had... this one I have is a large diameter unit... the 2v has a very small hole in the rear of the head... not at all the same? What can I do here? do I need an adapter or extension for the sending unit? do I need a different temp unit?

2. I had this engine assembled "Long Block" at the shop and it came with the balancer mounted... but there is no bolt in the center.. my old balancer had a bolt and washer in the center? should there be one here? is this thing only pressed on? I will not fire it up until I get one if I should have one? All of the pics in the manual have a bolt into the center?

3. I tried to rotate the engine, then found the missing bolt and since I could not roll it over by hand I am going to wait till I get a bolt on there, or figure something out... but my timing mark is about 16 degrees past TDC.... I was trying to install the distributor but could not get it seated anywhere but between the number 3 and number 2 points on the rotor.... I am going to wait till I get the balancer worked out and then I can rotate things around to TDC I am hoping things just are not lining up and that is why I can only get this in on the back half of the firing order? would this seem weird? shouldn't I be able to set it in anywhere? because it will not seat on the front half of the firing order at all.... between 4 and 6 on the cap it will not slide in... rotate it around 180 and slides right in?

Other than these three simple questions things are going well... I am still on track to be on the road next weekend... hopefully I can work out the balancer bolt... I do not have one... will have to try to find one.

 

[CobraSix]

Jimbo:

1) There should be some adaptors. I know I have some from the old mechanical gauge set up I used to run to verify temperatures. They had 3 different sizes that you could thread the TSU into. I'm not sure specifically about this application, but let me know as I will be doing it soon.

2) There should be a bolt there. Curious how they installed the balancer without the bolt. I used it to help press it back on.

3) Honestly, it will be a pain in the rear to get the dizzy line up perfectly again. It isn't the cam shaft that holds it up, it's usually the oil pump shaft. Try spinning it some. Or, you could do it like I do and just re-oreint the wires to match where I could get the dizzy into the engine. I'm not very hung up on making sure which wires are in which position. I figure if they are in the right firing order and I get myself enough room to advance and retard the dizzy, who cares? Just ask Al. I had him all freaked out when he saw my dizzy wires. You rotor can be pointing forward and it won't matter, just make sure you wires match up to that.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

So in other words if the rotor is pointing at what should be number three...
the run that as one and slide all the wires around to match....

cool idea...

but I think I should confirm TDC on compression before I do that.. and I might get lucky with the oil pump.

I am off to the parts store tomorrow to find either an adapter or something for the temp unit...

I also need some 1/4" screws for the intake holes where the port divider bolts up.
(I had them tap those so I can reinforce the welds with some bolts!!!)

 

[addo]

Jimbo, it's worth satisfying yourself there is a woodruff key in the crank. (The 16° off bit has me concerned.) Then install the balancer bolt. Don't run it without.

The dizzy can be hard to drop in with new cam and newish shaft gear. Everything is square and sharp. Big Red's method of turning the motor slightly (I use the balancer, by hand) works a charm.

Did you lube the valve tips?

The temp sender - I'd suggest try to find the correct one. Check Chrysler.

Still think the purple glove looks cool.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Addo:

Don't know about the "Woodruff Key" what is that? I am going to get a bolt and install it... the engine is 16 degrees off because I have already rotated the balancer by hand... just not all the way around. I need to crank it back around to TDC.

(But I have the tranny mounted and not the clutch, so I am installing the cable now so I can release the pressure plate... make things easier to turn. it is really tight... with the new pistons and such...

As for the valve tips? did I lube them, no? there is a nice coating of assembly lube on the valves.. I can see it through the intake holes... they did that when they installed the head and assembled, and of course the cam is also covered in lube... I primed the oil system and pushed oil out of the rods and lifters? do I need to do anything beyond that?

I am not that worried about the dizzy... I will get it close enough to start it up and break things in.

Finding the right sensor could be a pain in the arse.... I am not sure what size that opening is? and if I find one that fits... will it be right for my gauge? (I have 12v Hanline gauges...) I am going to the parts store in a little while to look...
What did the 250 2v's use originally?

 

[Falcon62]

Jimbo - The woodruff key is a half circle piece of steel that goes in a slot cut into the crank snout and meshes with a slot in the balancer and locks the balancer to the crank so it won't spin on the snout.

The bolt you mention is an absolute necessity, as the balancers for our sixes are not press fit, although they can be difficult to remove/install at times. The bolt, and a very thick washer, are what actually keep the balancer from falling off the crank. You need the woodruff key AND the bolt/washer to properly retain the balancer.

I prefer to place a dab of assembly lube on the top of the valve stems before setting the rocker assembly inplace. The thought here is to insure lubrication on the valve stems at start up. Since you've already primed your oiling system, it is not as critical. The assembly lube washes away once oil starts flowing anyway. You said the critical parts, cam lobes and lifters, were coated with assembly lube.

It's funny about the distributor timing. Seems everryone gets hung up on the wire positions based onthe cap and/or placement of the vacuum canister. It's nice to have the canister pointing near the center of the distributor's adjustment range (adv/ret), but other than that, the eninge is what really controls timing. It's irrelevant where the rotor points as long as the engine is set with #1 at TDC on compression and you stuff plug wires to match. Sure, it's best to get as close as possible, but don't get hung up on it. With the #1 at TDC, drop your distributor, and simply pick the terminal closest to the rotor position for your #1 wire. Set that terminal slightly ahead of the rotor and then finish out the firing order from there disregarding any numbers on the cap. Matter of fact, I prefer caps without numbers just in case I have to tweak wiring.

 

[Anonymous]

Anyone know what size that bolt is?

I do not have mine... it was tossed in the mix.
I am off to NAPA they seem to be the best at looking up little parts like that.
(They found the flywheel and pressure plate bolts the fastest...)

But just in case?


Thanks for all the advice.. I think I am fine on the lube and dizzy....
I am going to try Red's idea... Because I can get it in perfectly without the pump shaft in there... it is the hex pattern causing the trouble... so I will drop it in and move around till the shaft seats in the pump. (Once the dizzy is in the gears it will all be lined up)

 

[Anonymous]

Well I got a pipe adapter for the TSU and that solved that issue... (took a 3/8 female to 1/4 male adapter)

Struck out on the Balancer bolt... I went to two stores and nobody has a listing... NAPA is my next stop but they are not open till Tuesday.

Got the Dizzy in on Number one....

THANKS RED!! THAT WORKS LIKE A CHARM....

Seated the gear one tooth counter with the Rotor on the number one spot and slowly turned the balancer and plop in it went... this was the easiest time I have ever had with the Dizzy... I always end up fooling with that thing.

Thanks for the shop tip.

I am sure there will be more questions, but I am past this stage for now...
Onto the coolant system and then the fuel and carb.... (going over each one of these completely to make sure I miss nothing....)

 

[MustangSix]

Jimbo, don't forget to snag the thick washer that goes behind the bolt as well.

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah but first I got to find one... this is proving difficult.

 

[addo]

BOLT: Grade 8, 9/16"-18, thread 1 5/8" including transition area below head,

WASHER: Grade 8 (?), Ø Ext = 1 3/4", t=5/16"

 

[Anonymous]

Just FYI....

I solved this problem today... well sort of... it looks weird... but I think it will work..

I had to use two adpaters... one 3/8" to 1/4" (so the temp end would fit) and another 1/4" to 1/8" which is what the hole in the head was....

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I am not sure how accurate this will be? won't really know until I get things hot!

As for the balancer... I am waiting on a bolt...
But here is a shot of where I am now.... still so much to do...
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Guess I am shooting for next weekend to fire this up....
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[Anonymous]

Oh yeah... one more question?

what do you all use as a sealant on the valve cover? I have nothing on it right now since I am taking it on and off so much....

I have a bunch of different Permatex crud... copper black sillycone and High Tac...
I was thinking of using nothing but the cork till I do the hot adjustment on the rockers? but I dont want this to leak all over?

 

[Falcon62]

My old school approach is to 'glue' the cork gasket to the valve cover and not use any sealer between the head and the VC. Has worked for me for 30 years. Just don't overtorque the VC bolts. :!:

Can't find the gasket sealer I used to use anymore, was CopperCoat (not the spray can stuff) in a can with a dauber to apply. Was great stuff, but went the way of the dinosaur in favor of all the sillycones (which I don't like at all). :roll: I'd use the hi-tack in your case, but as they say, that's JMO.

Off to finish loading the boat, the wife and I are leaving for the lake in an hour. Time to thin the crappie population a wee bit. 8)