THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER":puic9z8y said:
Here is a picture of a stock cam for a big six. For years I waged a one-man-war in Ford to stop using the polar charts as shown above, which are great if you are a camshaft manufacturer but far inferior to the "time line" layout I present here in terms of understanding what is happening at the valve wrt time. This graph will show the lift events as time progresses.
Yep, totally aggree. Maybee its because to the uninitiated, the time based cam card looks like mamory glands...
The free market can create a situation where there is no level playing field.
airbert, you got a Clifford cam card with the right details
When I can't get overlap or seat to seat duration, I feel dumbed down by the supplier. This is not a tirade against the best suppliers in the world, as the US cam indusrty is heads and shoulders above other countries for cam supply. The expertise is miles deep. All cam grinders tend to get
really antsy when they have gone to the trouble of making the cutting edge grinds available to the public, and tend to protect the investment by only supplying details that have to be form the suppliers perspective.
The solution is to upskill the public. Everyone in the industry is worried when someone copies a grind developed by time, money and talent. The grind is important for dyno performance, but true excellence is in the blank preperation and sales back up, and so one cam supplier should never feel that suupling extra info is lost Intellectual Property when declaring the 12 things below that allow a full time line cam plot to be made. The info safegaurds a multi millon dollar industry.
This time based info is important, because we are now learning from the experience with trained ex FoMoCo and other people that its nothing to have an aftermarket cam
1. ground from the wrong blank,
2. with the wrong advance clocked in,
3. or even to have a cam which was ground by the maker some time ago which now has a twist in it that results in different timming from the front cylinders to the back, especially if the cam is high lift and has a reduced base circle diameter as all high lift flat tappet cams have to. An I6 Ford cam can be twisted within an inch of its life in a performance application, and they can and do suffer some maladies when cranked.
4. We are also aware that the any 200 and US 250 timing gear has differences, and that degreeing a cam takes a little more time and consultation to get right depending on the application.
5. The customers safe gaurd is buying a cam which is backed up by the supplier. The most excellent, smart and quality focused suppliers are human, and can make mistakes, so have the decency as a customer to do the home work first. It's to our suppliers credit here that we have the freedom to discuss these issues in this forum, and keep a level head while learning about our big and little in-line sixes.
Back a few years ago, we had to understand a few issues with the small six
I've got some major pointers.
1. If full "time line" cam details in the above layout doesn't exist, ASK FOR IT.
See
http://store.schnitzracing.com/product_ ... enters.jpg
See
http://store.schnitzracing.com/cam-lobe ... explained/
Then have the decency to check all the set up instructions to the letter. If the cam supplier doesn't supply the details so you can make a full list, then shop elseware. At the very least, these figures below must be able to be horse traded and compared
1 or a.Adv dur: int 252º,
2 or b.exh 252º
3 or c.107.5 LCA,
4 or d 105 ILC (1.5º advance)
5 or e.Valve timing @ .006" (hydraulic cam at lash)
6 or f.intake opens @ 21º BTDC
7 or g.Intake closes @ 51º ABDC
8 or h.Exhaust opens @ 56º BBDC
9 or i. Exhaust closes @ 16º ATDC
This allows advance to be calculated by c-d
And Overlap by f+i
If you don't have these nine (9) pieces of info, your likely to be wasting your time if the cam gets worn, incorrectly ground or has an interferance problem. Base circle diameter is a 10th figure (j), and 11th (k) and 12th (l), the respective lift at the lobe for intake and exhast.
I know why cam makes supply 50 thou figures, but they should be in
addition to the above, not a
replacement for them.
2. Be VERY carefull with advancing all cams on Ford small sixes. Ford small 200 and 250 I6's can become interferance engines. When the cam is able to freewheel in relation to the crank, the rods WILL HIT THE CAMSHAFT on 200 and 250 sixes. A totally stripped timing chain is unlikely, but if it did happen, the cam is very close to the crank centerlines in short deck US 200 and all 250 engines. The US 144, 170, (and Aussie/Argie 187/188 and 221, and the US HSC 2300 and 2500 I4's) are free from this problem. I've got a 1985 250 turbocharged cross flow 268 degree EFI cam in my basement, and it has hit the rod under extream duty, and its possible that conrod failure is an interferance issue with cam, not just a plasticine rod bolt issue.
3. See
viewtopic.php?t=65908 for what happens when a 4 deg advanced cam blank doesn't quite have the stock clearance required for all the 200 I6 con rods. This is something to check always with our Ford 200 and 250's
4. All off the shelf Competition Cams have 4 degrees of advance ground into them.
5. All stock Ford cams seam to have four degrees advance ground into them
6. Clay Smith cams are not advanced, they are ground straight up