Straight 6, 200 Engine - Carburator?

[MikeTarr]

Ok, so Just purchased my first car, in ok condition. My dad and I just finished putting new bearings on, new piston rings, a new water pump, a new master cylinder, new rotor and plugs for the distrbutor, new spark plugs, and the car also came with a new gas tank and exhaust system.

It's a Straight 6, 200 engine. My question is, does this engine have any power in it? I know it's not a V8, but I'm not lookin for TONS of power, and LOTS of speed. I just want to have a car that will go with the flow of traffic, and isnt gonna be all weak. I dont want to have to push the pedal alll the way down just to get movin. So what do you guys think of this engine.

Also, I am having BIG problems finding a carburator, for a 3 speed 200 engine(1 barrel). Anyone know where I can purchase that? Autozone doesnt have it in stock..

Any help for those 2 questions would be much appreciated. Thanks much guys.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Mike:

Welcome to THe Forum. You'll find lots of info here and help to.

To answer you questions, yes, the 200 can give quite good performance. It would be most helpful if you gave us more info. What car is it in? What trans? What year? Do you want it to be restored? mostly original? or restomod? Is it going to be a daily driver or a hobby car? What is your location/elevation?

Answers to these questions will allow us to give more specific and appropriate answers.

Hope to hear back from you soon.

Adios, David

 

[69Falcon]

You'll be fine with the 200 I6 and what I presume is a C4 automatic tranny. I've got the same motor, with a set of 2.83 gears in the rearend, and I have no problem keeping up with the flow of traffic. The beauty of the engine is its low-end torque. And as we all know, torque is what gets you off the line.

As for a carb, you can always try ebay, PonyCarbs, or Stovebolt, but you might be better off just getting a rebuild kit from autodiscountpepzone.

 

[matt1967]

if your rebuilding the engine, and you don't have a carb, your distributor uses a spark control valve signal that comes from the spark control valve in the carb, it works as what the vac advance would on a normal distributor. this is only for '67 down small 6's. if you get a carb without the SCV your distributor will not work right, you would need an Autolite 1100 with a SCV for this application.

 

[Mercury Mike]

I've got a couple of carburetors, and they work pretty good. One's an original rebuilt autolite 1100. And yeah, the 200 is basically the most kickass engine, ever. What car is it?

 

[MikeTarr]

The 200 Engine is in a 1965 Ford Mustang, Coupe. Currently primered, I need to sand it down, with some bondo, and then I'm going to paint it black.

We got it for 3200 dollars, that came with a new gas tank, and new exhaust system. The tran is fine. The carb is fine too, but we're gonna need to replace it soon, that is what I ask.

So the interior was fine too, we just needed a new dash, new back dash, and we did that, and it looks much better. It also needed new carpet, which we got, and the seats were original and GREAT condition, just needed patched up a few places, which is being done as we speak. So once we get the seats re upolstered, and the carpet in, and the 2 new arm rest, the interior is done, it's gonna look nice.

Then, this weekend, we're picking up the chrome valve cover and chrome air filter, that we ordered. Once we get those, we'll go ahead and put them on, and put the bearings back on(under the oil pan). By the way, if ANYONE knows the bearing's torque I'd really appreciate it. So once we get the torque, we'll go ahead and put the oil pan back on with the new gasket, and the valve cover and airfilter back on. Then, we're done with the engine.

Just 2 months ago I didnt even know what a carb looked like, or what a gasket was...so ya, I learned alot with this car, which happens to be my first ever. It's the ONLY car I like out on the road, the ford mustang coupe, I dont know why, I just love it. I get my license this friday if all goes well, so yah, gotta get this car running : )

 

[Mercury Mike]

You're in the SAME boat I was in when I was 17. It's all about the '65 coupe. Main bearing cap bolts? 60-70 ft lbs. Torque to 60, let it sit awhile, torque it to 70. Make sure to oil the threads, and that the female threads are nice and clean. I have the original '65 shop manual, so if you need pictures or torque limits, just send me a pm and I will help you. If the carburetor's good, DON't MESS WITH IT! Once the timing's set, and the car moves when you hit the gas, leave it alone. If you fight it to get it better, you might end up worse off. I have been fighting those damn carbs for months. Also... one other note. Don't use the aluminum valve cover, they're known to leak really bad. I don't have anything to say about the air filter, other than I like my original. I just sanded them, used some naval jelly and got rid of allllll the rust, and then painted both the air filter and valve cover. If you torque it right, it won't ever leak. I don't use any sealer on my valve cover or oil pan, and they don't leak a drop. Good luck, you're gonna love that engine! I hope you have more good times than I have had keeping it running, though. If there's anything that I didn't replace the first time around, it's gone bad while runnin'. =) Congratulations on your first engine!

 

[fordconvert]

Like others have said, If it runs good dont mess with it for now. If it dont run right pick up a rebuild kit (around $20) and see if you can get it running right. Get the car out and enjoy it and read up here on all the mods you can do so you know what to start saving up to do. From what I have read here BY FAR the easiest carb to deal with for newbies is the 1BBL's. The rest of them are more complex and require adaptors and mods to linkages and manifolds. After you read up and learn more you may want to try something like that but now (car not running) I would not even think about a change. Pick up a shop manual, there is tons of good info in them. Dont waste your money on a Chiltons or Haynes type.. they cost $20 now and cover way to many models and years so they either have the wrong info or something that is close enough to get you in trouble. I bought a new one from Mustangs Unlimited for around $45 and it is a top quality reprint. ALL the pages are nice and clear. I looked on ebay for a few weeks and most of them seemed to go for around $40 anyway.

 

[mugsy]

HI!!

As Fordconvert said: buy a factory shop manual. FoMoCo did a good job with their manuals, they explain alot, and have all the torque numbers and info you need. Very few things are left out.

If you are new to carb-ed engines, just one word of advice: you have to have the distributor working well before you touch the carb. I learned that the hard way. There can be things wrong with the dizzy and you would swear that the carb is bad. Make sure the initial timing is set correctly and the dwell/point gap is correct, THEN start to fiddle with the carb.

The carb *should* have a small aluminum tag attached to it; typically its under one of the top bolts. You'll need the tag number to get a rebuild kit, or have us here help you. Also search here and the Falcon Six handbook and find out what type of carb is on your Mustang. I rebuilt the carb on my '65 when I bought it, and it ran great. If you can't find a source for a new carb please consider rebuilding what you have. Its cheaper and "more fun".

Good luck and wlecome aboard,
Mugsy

 

[LaGrasta]

Even if your AutoZone doesn't carry it, which I find hard to believe since the carb (or a swapable one) was used on everything for years and years, they can order it. I got one for my Ranchero from AutoZone and it was cheap and right off the shelf.
I now have a Falcon but never hard to replace the carb. I bought a rebuild kit a year ago to fix my accelerator pump and it was in stock and all is well again.
Like it was suggested, you can buy one at any of the specialty shops, but it will cost you a bit more. Supposedly PonyCarbs has increased performance with theirs. No one has ever really confirmed this or explained how this is possible.
Sounds like you're learning and having fun. Welcome to FordSix! 8)

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Welcome, and congratulations on becoming a Classic Car Investor. If you don't think you're an investor, just wait 'til you start pouring money into your honey.

As stated previously, make sure ignition is perfect before attempting to diagnose carb problems. I strongly recommend the Pertronix conversion for the distributor. It is actually easier to install than setting points, and way outperforms them. Spring for the $60 or so of the kit, and kiss points adjustment goodbye. I like the Pertronix, as opposed to the retrofit electronic units, because it is almost impossible to distinguish from stock; and if it ever fails, you can throw the old points back in and be on your way.

Have fun, fun, fun!

 

[LaGrasta]

I strongly second BIGREDRASA's advice. To this day, the Pertronix was the best spent money and most noticable improvement. And one of the easiest too.
Do it all though, it'll be about $100 total cost. 8mm wires, new plugs gapped at 45-50 and a 40,000 – 60,000 volt coil. I bought mine from JC Whitney as they were the cheapest.

 

[Anonymous]

I dont want to have to push the pedal alll the way down just to get movin.

but....but....but....that's the only way I can make BOOST!
Besides, I didn't realize there any other positions other than all the way down!

So what do you guys think of this engine.

Mine came in a "parts car" I bought for $25. It had 100,xxx miles on it but seemed to run OK once I got it running. I was going to just haul the engine to the scrap yard, but I decided to go ahead and blow it up first by overboosting it, then hauling the pieces to the scrap yard. I'm still trying....it hasn't popped yet. At one time I had my boost controller wayy too tight and had it up around 26-28 psi and it is still in one piece.

I'm pretty durned impressed with the durability of these things.

Once we get those, we'll go ahead and put them on, and put the bearings back on(under the oil pan).

Rod bearing bolts are 25-28 ft lbs or somewhere around there.

I strongly recommend the Pertronix conversion for the distributor.

I don't. I have had three different friends have problems with the Pertronix. I would never gamble my money on one. I would take a factory 70's-80's Duraspark distributor anyday. You can always get parts for them at any parts store, too.