Surging While Driving

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I have a new Holley 1100 carb on my 68 200. All ignition except the distributor has been replaced. Dwell is right. Timing is right. Idle is right. The problem is when at driving speed the car will surge. Accelerate and it goes away. Stop and idle and it idles fine. It's only while at part throttle while cruising. I pulled the top off the carb and raised the float today to see if that was the problem. That wasn't it. Pulled the power valve and cleaned it out. Put a new fuel pump on yesterday. The car has a c4 and the fluids are at the right level. Any ideas on what could be the cause of this?
 
Thanks for the tip. I have PCV, vacuum advance and trans modulator. Anything else?
 
Does your 68 have an egr? Or is it supposed to?

Check dizzy for wear in the advance plate and main shaft. If you have long enough wires on your dwell/tach run it in the car and make sure the dwell or tach is not changing when this happens. Sometimes a worn bushing will cause the shaft wabble around at certain RPMs and could cause the dwell to drift. Have also seen the pivots for the vacuum advance wear to the dwell change at differnt positions. Also check the ground and lead wires going to the points for any issues.
 
68's do have the EGR valve

could his prob be the vaccuum advance thingy?
 
I found a bad spot in the pcv hose and taped it up for now. It made a little bit of difference. If my 68 has an egr valve, I can't find it. I've checked the vacuum advance with my timing light and it holds steady with increased rpm's. As mentioned before, it only happens while at cruising speeds. When it starts, I can accelerate and it goes away. I'm starting to think distributor now. Thanks.
 
Pull -all- the plugs and check for scavenger deposits. It's "wintertime" for the oil companies and there is extra crap in the gas. Our engines have a cooler combustion chamber (most of us) than modern efi/emmisions engines, and scavenger deposits can build up enough in three or four months enough to bridge the gap between electrodes.
I've had this problem for several years. Every three months (at oil changes) I pull the plugs and clean the brown crusties off.

Mine usually look like this:
plugs.jpg


Rick(wrench)
 
I almost hate to tell you what i wound up having to do with my autolite 1100, but here goes anyway
symtems sound the same..lean surge rough idle, ok under power.
I found many problems with my 223 i6 after driving it all winter long in the harshest conditions the lower 48 states have to offer..but on a 6 block trip home from the school, the night mare began.
I had to retorque the intake and exhaust manifold, which didnt help.
Then opened the distributer to find the vaccume advance never worked since i bought it, the plate was frozen solid. I used 3/1 oil and worked it back and forth and on my 6th day of efforts, it finally got very free and worked perfectly. I removed the vacume line from carb to the dist., sprayed cleaner in it and compressed air...removed a bunch of debree, checked it for leaks, none. I removed the vacumme advance and checked it for leaks, none. Repaced the points, Rotor, and cap, no help. Timed it, wasnt off and didnt help. Installed new kit on the carb, no help even after atleast 3 hours of tedious cleaning and 2 cans of compressed carb cleaner and a half gallon of paint thinner. Adjusted float bowl from 1 3/16 to 1" exactly, no difference. Tryed every combination of carb adjustments known to modern man, no changes.
Finally after 6 days of working out in 11 degree weather and absolutly no difference or solutions, i did what was NOT recommended. I uncovered the float bowl and with compressed air and my fingers over the 3 balls to prevent blowing them out in the yard...i gave it allmighty hell with the compressor...then i removed the float and check valve and blew the crap out of the float bowl assembly. I reassembled the top and left the float bowl adjusted to 1", hooked up the fuel and linkage...the car has never run so good or so strong...absolutly smooth idle and can pick any idle speed i want all the way down to 250 rpm b4 it seems like it might stall.
This job was completed at 3:10 today, april 10th 2007. Took me 6 days to fix it. Ive rebuilt john deere combines in less time than that out in the field.

umm don't blow to hard on the hole that goes down to your acelerator pump, and use caution on all the holes, but ultimatly...this did in fact make my car work better than it ever has since i bought it in january over a year ago.
 
Where do you think you got the offending dirt out of in your carb?

My 1100 is doing the same thing, a light surge at cruise that goes away with more throttle. Carb is nice and clean, Ignition is good, PCV hose is good, vac advance hose is good, and I can't find any vacuum leaks anywhere.

I'm about to order some bigger jets off of ebay and call it good, unless I've missed something.
 
Some instructions from the Accel distributor kit I just bought said to keep advancing the vac advance timing until surging or pinging is detected, and then back off the timing. So, I guess you could have a case where too much vac advance is causing some surging.
Doug
 
Ive heard the term idle circut...perhaps that is where the dirt was..but i didnt know how to identify one circut from another...so i blew em all...one eyebrow started going up when i kept seeing a small amount of very fine dirt collecting in the bottom of my float bowl every day for 6 days in a row...i assumed this dirt got caught somewhere inside the carb.
here is the offending car

http://www.dtcphotography.smugmug.com/g ... 9#98400468
 
Hey thanks guys...its the first car ive done both mechanics and paint on...i've just pulled this car out of the woods after 20 years. Its already on the road. I hope it progress's as nicely as the galaxie. Unfortunatly its not a i6 but atleast the motor and tranny is virtually new
142903880-M.jpg

138345280-M.jpg
 
I've replaced the distributor and PCV valve. There's nothing left. I'm dumbfounded. I've already pulled the carb top off and cleaned the ports with carb cleaner. It's a new carb and the bowl was clean when I pulled the top. I'll check the plugs as suggested and see what they look like. Then I guess I'm going to take Clint Eastwood's advice and let my mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for all of the help. I'll let y'all know what I find out.
 
David,
When checking it with a timing light, your vacuum advance should advance when you increase the engine rpm's in the driveway. The engine builds more vacuum with engine rpm in the driveway since there is no load. What distributor do you have? A 1968 model or the earlier Load-a-matic? The 68 model should be advancing the timing with increased engine rpms even with the vacuum line disconnected. A load-a-matic distributor will not increase timing when the vac line is disconnected, but it should if it is connected.
Doug
 
I got mine to quit surging at cruise by raising the float height from 1 3/16" to 1 3/32", giving 3/32 more fuel height in the bowl.

You've raised your fuel height without success, you might try jetting up. there are jets available on ebay.
 
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