Taking delivery of my rebuilt engine questions?

[Anonymous]

I am going to be getting my engine back from the machine shop soon enough and was wondering what I should ask them to do and what I would want to do myself...

I think I would like to install the head myself, that would make getting it in the car easier for me...

I was asked if I wanted a short block assembly? not sure what that means?

But what should I have them do for me that would make my life easier? I am not sure I trust them to do the full assembly or not? any reason I shouldn't? They were not going to charge me that much more to do it... and I could use hangers to drop the engine in instead of head bolts....

I am not all that sure of my skills, but I figure if I take my time and go with all the information I have learned and what you all have helped me with. I would probably take more care than someone being payed.


Thoughts....

Jimbo

 

[Anonymous]

I really can't give you a lot of guidance on want else you can ask the machine shop to do. But a short block is the block, pistons/rod, cam, timing chain and all the internal bearings. Basicly the rotating assembly,

You will have to install the head, manifolds, timing chain cover, oil pump, distributor, oil pan, flywheel and all your misc. accessories parts

 

[rbohm]

8) when you get the motor back, recheck the torque on the main and rod bolts. there shouldnt be any problem but it never hurts to double check. on a six cyl engine, reinstalling with or without the head is about the same as you have plenty of room to work, so it is your choice. when you get the motor back together and ready to run prime the oil system before you do anything else. best to do that early on the day you want to fire the engine. use a good mineral based motor oil, not a synthetic or semi-synthetic, and prime the carb. when you finally start the engine run it at 2000-2500 rpm for the first 20min DO NOT let the engine idle during that time. if you have any problems shut the engine down and fix the problem and then restart again running at 2000+ rpm. also do not run a hose in the cooling system as the engine has to reach operating temp. keep a close eye on the oil pressure and engine temp through the first 1000 miles. when you finish the initial break in period, change the oil and filter. change again at 500, 1500, and 3000 miles, then observe your normal change intervals.

 

[Anonymous]

That is pretty much as the Falcon Handbook describes, there is a great walkthrough on assembly and break-in.


Can someone check these gasket sealants for me I am making a list of what to use where....

Permatex Ultra Copper:
Intake Gasket and Header Gasket...
Permatex High Tac Gasket Sealant:
Thermostat housing, Water Pump, Fuel Pump, Oil Pump, Oil Pan, Timing Chain Cover, valve cover.

Nothing on the head gasket and carb gaskets....

I'm also thinking about getting the Copper and High Tac in spray form, that would make it easier and faster than spreading it by hand.


Thoughts on this as well?

 

[rbohm]

8) if you use the ultra copper you dont need a gasket. in fact using a gasket can cause problems with the silicon sealer. the spray on copper gasket sealer works fine everywhere except on head gaskets that say no sealer. since the spray on stuff is designed to handle high temps as well as oil and fuel you can use it everywhere except at the corner of the oil pan. there use a good silicon sealer as the spray on doesnt fill gaps.

 

[Anonymous]

I used PERMATEX® FORM-A-GASKET® No. 2 Sealant
on the oil pan the last time and it worked great, it allowed me to spread on the gasket without drying and it sealed very nice with no leaks.

I will probably use this there....


As for the copper on the header gasket I was reading a while back and was told to liberally spread on both sides of the gasket? Not sure about this one?