THread II - Pro Fab tubular intake on falcon log head

[wsa111]

You need to give us some much more info on this engine.
Such as piston design-flat top or dished?
How many cc's does your combustion chamber have?
Is the block zero decked?
What are the spec's on your camshaft?
12 degrees initial on your engine is way out to lunch.
What distributor are you using? Need info on this, such as advance curve.
Once you get fire instead of being 180 degrees off, that will at least get the engine started & the camshaft broken in.
Lets go from there.

 

[autoX65]

It is a 8cc dished piston
54cc combustion chamber
zero decked the block
camshaft lift is .448" 263/263 on 108 lobe center with intake center line 104
its a 1969 autolite stock distributor with pertronix ignitor
so should I try 6 degrees? and Ill try to take it 180 around then.

I don't have the vacuum advance hooked up right now and dont believe this is a centriphical advance unit right?

I dont know what the advance curve it as it was tuned on the old set up I ran it on so this is a totally different engine then the near stock engine it was running on before.

 

[wsa111]

You need to get the head cc's down to 49-50 area to at least get the compression ratio over 9 to 1.
You should be at the very least get the initial advance closer to 20"BTDC.
But you can't do that till you limit your centrifugal advance otherwise you will have too much total.
With a camshaft with 108 L/C i hope you have a stick shift trans or a C-4 with a 2500+ stall speed.
Once you get the distributor recurved you will be closer to getting your engine straightened out.
You need distributor work right now.

 

[cr_bobcat]

I'm not as quite as knowledgeable as a lot of the folks on here, but I had a very similar problem last year. I installed a HEI-style distributor during a light refresh of the engine (water pump, balancer, timing chain, alternator, distributor, complete carb rebuild). When I stabbed the new distributor I was very careful to get the orientation correct. As soon as I tried to start it I had some very impressive flames shoot out the carb. I re-oriented the distributor 180* and it fired up immediately. The 12* of advance may not be optimal, but it should be more than sufficient to get you started and running so that you can fine tune things. I would recommend trying that before digging into all the wiring. You're obviously getting spark if there's flames.

 

[hotrodguy]

I just finished putting a 68 Mustang Dizzy in my 200 65 Ranchero. Blocked off the spark control and recurved the distributor. running about 18 initial advance, it seems to need that much to start running well. Randy

 

[autoX65]

I'm not as quite as knowledgeable as a lot of the folks on here, but I had a very similar problem last year. I installed a HEI-style distributor during a light refresh of the engine (water pump, balancer, timing chain, alternator, distributor, complete carb rebuild). When I stabbed the new distributor I was very careful to get the orientation correct. As soon as I tried to start it I had some very impressive flames shoot out the carb. I re-oriented the distributor 180* and it fired up immediately. The 12* of advance may not be optimal, but it should be more than sufficient to get you started and running so that you can fine tune things. I would recommend trying that before digging into all the wiring. You're obviously getting spark if there's flames.

Just swapped the distributor around this evening which I too believe was a big problem. I will video what it does tomorrow afternoon ill have some time for it.

 

[autoX65]

You need to get the head cc's down to 49-50 area to at least get the compression ratio over 9 to 1.
You should be at the very least get the initial advance closer to 20"BTDC.
But you can't do that till you limit your centrifugal advance otherwise you will have too much total.
With a camshaft with 108 L/C i hope you have a stick shift trans or a C-4 with a 2500+ stall speed.
Once you get the distributor recurved you will be closer to getting your engine straightened out.
You need distributor work right now.

Yeah I figured it was under 9 to 1 when I measured the volume in the head and engine. wasnt trying to go for hi compression.

its a very built c4 with a 1800-2200 stall....I was hoping for higher but that was the best the builder said he could get his torque converter builder to do.
its rollerized, pump mod, oil mods, custom valve body, wide bands and v8 clutch packs both machined for 5 on 5 frictions.

you are correct I actually really need the distributor tuned....I know you are the man for it so ill send you a PM to see about you dialing it in.

 

[64 200 ranchero]

you can have a custom converter made, i was quoted around $800 from hughes performance to have a 3500 stall converter built. it can be done if you have the funds, i dont at the moment

 

[autoX65]

This converter was custom made out of a company in Michigan that was the only company I found at the time that did these small bell converters. Nice to know hughes does them also but that is a steep price. I believe mine was around 400 with shipping. but again its not as hi a stall as I wanted but it is higher then stock so Ill have to see what it does soon from driving it. I plan to at least give it another go I have just been waiting on a new fuel pump which I should get the carter super street mechanical pump and try the lever replacement mod today and at least get it started and break in the cam.

Will update later this evening.

 

[JackFish]

The folks who did my converter were able to squeeze only 2000-2200 out of it. Quite streetable.

 

[autoX65]

Didnt quite get to it yesterday but did get a new fuel pump on there I finally found that i knew was around so wish I didnt get the carter super street but I may put it on down the road.

Had to to a little work on the 434m block build and also my 1969 351 windsor as well as a little on the 1969 250 engine today too so got quite a lot of wrenching in today. should plan to get this 3.3 liter going tomorrow morning. I hope it goes well so I can get to some more tuning.

 

[autoX65]

one other thing I wanted to set up proper was the electric choke on this holley. I know some fords had them hooked to the alternator so as to only get voltage to the choke while it is running. and I believe its only supposed to have 7 to 8v so does anyone know what tab on the alternator I could use for the electric choke or any other recommendation?

 

[autoX65]

the S terminal is the stator voltage.. its only there when the alternator is charging... half of what the DC output in AC.......... it helps control the voltage output some how.. this circuit is also used on later model fords to power the electric choke... it will support the voltage regulator s terminal and the electric choke just fine...


Read more: http://forums.mustangandfords.com/musta ... z3gbOp1PNL

 

[autoX65]

okay finally got a good 15 minute run on it and seems like carburetor is good with good response and acceleration and good starting.

still having major timing issues. I did this break in with out the vacuum advance hooked up so it was difficult with out that to keep it running right but just manually workered the timing up with acceleration.

sounds really healthy for a hot six, ran smooth and liked lots of initial timing.

Should need some stiffer springs for the mechanical but will definitely need to have it sent out for work. I plan to give the distributor a little tunning tomorrow since it still is not fully tuned but its close.

any recommendation for stiffer springs on the mechanical advance or should I hook up the vacuum advance on the next time I run it?

 

[64 200 ranchero]

you should have wsa111 or falconsedandelivery recurve it, you need a distributor machine to properly tune it unless you want to lock the advance mechanism and use a timing computer. i think msd makes one.

 

[64 200 ranchero]

take some picks when you can

 

[autoX65]

take some picks when you can

yeah I sure will soon, I just want to get it dialed in a put a few passes on it to see what it really can do.

I believe it just needs the mechanical advance limited more since it took 18 degrees initial ill try to lock out some of the advance and bring the curve in a little slower and give it one more try today. if not i will be sending it out to get curved.

 

[autoX65]

I took a shot at it since my good timing light has not been working for some time now I just have a basic old one with no dial or electronics so had to order one.

I tried the ds2 re curve adjustment with the 925d mr gasket spring and replaced the one light spring with one of those and bent the tab inward 3/32.
also put some stiff rubber hose in hopes to limit the timing since it has high initial

the vacuum advance seems really hard to move as if I suck on it feels like its over 15 pounds or so when I press it because I couldnt get it to move with out lots of pressure on the plate.

will give it a go tomorrow but plan to wait for a new timing light to really see what its doing.