All Small Six Timing Chain Install

[65 Mustang]

Hello Everyone. Installing a new timing chain on my 200 ci engine. The block has a 1968 casting. I have a spare engine with a 1966 casting. When I opened the timing cover on that engine, I noticed a piece present that is not present on my current (‘68 engine. I point to it in the picture. It is a little difficult to see with all of the oil on it. Is that the “key” that everyone tells you not to lose when doing this job? Should I put that piece on my current engine or did they not use that on the ‘68 block? Thanks

 

[bubba22349]

That part is called an oil slinger it was used to divert excessive amounts of oil from splashing on the back of the front timing covers oil seal all the older engines had them. Ford discontinued them sometime on the later model 170 & 200 Six engines. I don't remember the year. Also often during a timing gear & chain change they are also sometimes left off by many. Also note that if you are using one of the performance Double Roller Timing Chain set's then you can't use that oil slinger anyway. If however you're are still using a stock type single Row Timing Chain and Timing Gear set, then it's your choice if you want to use it. I personally will use them with a stock Timing Chain and Gear set, best of luck

 

[65 Mustang]

Ok. Thanks so much Bubba for your reply. I will be replacing it with a stock chain so maybe I’ll use it then. What is the ”key” that I hear people mention to not lose when doing this job. I know that the gears have a keyed on slot so that they can only go on one way on the shaft. I didn’t see any physical item in there though?

 

[frozenrabbit]

The key is what lines up and keeps the crank gear from rotating on the crank. The raised rectangle on the crank is the key, it is removeable, if something locks up, it will sheer off before destroying the gear or crank.

 

[drag-200stang]

I can see the crankshaft key in your pic, if it is firmly in place do not mess with it. If it is loose it can slide back and wedge the install of the dampener. Use a torque wrench to torque the crank bolt to spec and cam bolt. Would not hurt to use blue loc tite on cam bolt. Please take and post a pic of the cam end when you take off the cam sprocket. and a pic of the new sprockets marks lined up. P.S. turn the crank till the marks line up before you take the sprockets off.

 

[bubba22349]

X2 Yes there is a Woodroof Key in the Crankshaft that you can see it in your above picture and the oil slinger also has a slot cut in it as well as the Timing Gear which has a broached slot to side on over that key. These crankshaft keys usually won't come out all that easy but check that it's there during the reassembly. There is also a round pin in the camshaft snot that the Camshaft timing Gear slides over check that it's still there too. Yes, both the Timing Gears can only go on one way however that's only half of the Job, if you're not Degreeing your Camshaft be sure that the Timing Marks / Dots are then lined up correctly too, so the Camshaft is timed to the Crankshaft correctly. If you are also replacing the camshaft, then be sure that the "Beveled Camshaft Spacer" is transferred over to the front of the new Camshaft or get a replacement one, this is very important step and is one of the most forgotten items for many new Ford Small Six Re-Builders during a replacement or new Camshaft Install in these little Ford's as well as several other Ford engines. Best of luck

 

[78_200_C4]

I wish I that had installed the 65 oil slinger on my 78 200 when I replaced the 1965 200.
I have a slight oil leak from the front Felpro seal. Oil has sprayed onto the lower radiator hose.

 

[65 Mustang]

Ah..Ok I get it now. I thought that piece was cast into the crank shaft itself. Did not realize it could come out. This all makes sense. I could definitely see how misplacing that would cause some problems. I’ll be careful not to move it. I’ll post some more pics when I have the new timing chain set in place. I always heard about the oil slinger but never knew what it looked like or exactly what it did. I guess there is no reason not to take it from my spare engine and put it on. Yeah, I’m going to be installing that Felpro O ring seal later this afternoon. Got a loan-a tool seal installer from Autozone as I don’t have a socket big enough.

SIDE NOTE: Some of you who have responded to some earlier posts of mine might be wondering why my engine is out of my car all of a sudden. I’ll try to keep it short. I removed a C4 automatic to install a 3.03 transmission. When I removed the C4, I supported the back of the engine with a bottle jack. BIG MISTAKE! The bottle jack put a dent in the oil pan causing the piston rod to bang into it leading to a loud knocking sound. So, the oil pan needed to come off so I could bang out the dent. I could not imagine doing this from underneath the car. Even with the engine on an engine stand, it took a lot of time and effort getting all of the old gasket material off the block. It needed a new oil pan gasket anyway. While I was working on that I noticed there was a lot of slack in the timing chain so I am replacing that as well. I can easily see getting carried away with things and start replacing a lot of other items like the oil pump and water pump, but I’ll probably just leave them alone because as far as I know they are working properly. Hopefully, I’ll have the engine and transmission back in there soon and be on the road. I included a picture of the dented oil pan. Thanks again for all of your help.

 

[65 Mustang]

Was working on the timing belt today. Included three picture: Original belt on, no belt, and new belt. I placed the #1 cylinder at TDC before taking off the timing cover. The timing marks on the new belt are not pointed directly at each other. They seem to be one tooth off. That’s how they were on the original belt as well. I placed the white out on two of the teeth of the original belt just to note location. I’m pretty sure I am at TDC as noted on the crank pulley. I watched the cylinder come up through the spark plug hole. Wondering how you guys think I should proceed. Should I put the belt back on in the exact same position as the original? Is it possible the slack belt caused it to skip a tooth and be out of synch? Or, possibly I didn’t rotate the crank enough to achieve TDC.

 

[drag-200stang]

I see no problems with anything, If you turn the crank as it is, a little clock wise, will it not it line up dot to dot perfectly?
If you are dot to dot , it has to be right. There is no way to have it wrong. Unless the parts are made wrong. If this was a new cam I would tell you it has to be degreed in with the right tools.

 

[65 Mustang]

Yes it should. That is what I was thinking, but just wanted to double check since this is the first time I am replacing a timing belt. Thank for reply.

 

[drag-200stang]

I think that you are good to go.

 

[65 Mustang]

On another note, the front seal that goes into the timing cover, should some type of sealant be a applied to it before going in or does it go in dry? I have to tell you the (what I think to be) original seal was a bear to get out. It took me several hours this morning to remove it and get the surface ready or the new seal.

 

[65 Mustang]

Drag-200stang- thanks for reply and info.

 

[drag-200stang]

I would think that thinner sealer that does not dry or harden up fast would make it slide in easier, no sealer and oil may work but myself would worry that it would leak.
Maybe there is other opinions on this. It will go in hard, make sure that you press it in straight and have good even support.

 

[65 Mustang]

Hey Guys. Decided to include the oil slinger on my engine. As you know, I got the oil slinger from my spare engine. Could you just check that I oriented it correctly? I have the cup side facing the engine. This is exactly how I removed it from my spare engine. What puzzles me is that I have seen other engines (not Ford Inline sixes) with the cup side facing the timing cover. Could not find any images of Ford sixes with the oil slinger on. Thanks very much.

 

[65 Mustang]

Ok. I just checked my shop manual and I am pretty sure I have it correct. It said to install the oil slinger so that the raised part of embossed arrow faces out. That’s how I have it. Also, the convex side was facing the timing cover in the image.

 

[drag-200stang]

Yes, it is on correctly.

 

[wsa111]

Too late but you should have purchased the dual roller chain from Vintage Inlines.
With the dual roller you cannot use the oil slinger.

 

[R_Calris]

depending on the timing cover seal used, the slinger isn't needed, but its not a detriment to put it on. its main purpose was an attempt to keep oil away from the weak seals of the early SB6 engine, as seal technology improved, they weren't needed anymore, and end up being redundant.

just make sure the seal doesn't roll when you place it over the crank. a small amount of assembly lube in the center of the seal that contacts the shaft is what I used, then wiped off the excess from the outside once the cover is installed. I know some guys 'prime' the seal with a little bit of new engine oil so it doesn't roll over during assembly.