All Small Six Timing Chain Install

[drag-200stang]

I was told that one of the reasons of the slinger is because of the early blocks crank case road draft tube, the venting went around the timing chain area and out. One of the slingers jobs was to centrically separate the oil from the gases so less oil would be expelled. After 66 blocks eliminated the road draft passage and no more slinger.

 

[bubba22349]

Looks real good all except LOL that you painted the engine the wrong color for a stock looking 1965 Ford Mustang.

 

[65 Mustang]

Ok. Thanks for info. Got the new timing belt on today and buttoned everything up. Also, put on the new oil pan gasket. Going to let things settle for awhile before I fill it with fluid. I have to admit, I brought the timing cover and seal to my machine shop as I was having a difficult time getting it installed properly. The machinist had it pressed in in a few minutes for me. Just got to figure out a way to get the harmonic balancer back on. The installer that I rented today is not going to do it. Thinking of picking up some 9/16 fine althread tomorrow and coming up with something on my own. wsa111- I did know about the dual roller chain. However, the timing chain was an afterthought once I pulled the engine and I wanted to get something quick from a parts store. In the future, if I have the block rebuilt I’ll put one on. What exactly is the advantage of a dual roller timing chain? I assume it helps prevent the chain from flexing over the long haul. Once again, thanks for all the help and info.

 

[65 Mustang]

Bubba- true, but I just like the look of that darker blue color so much better. I’ll post a pick of the whole engine while it’s still on the stand. Hopefully I’ll have it back in the car by the end of the weekend.

 

[65 Mustang]

Hello again. Reinstalled the harmonic balancer today. Just wanted to verify with everyone that it is not supposed to go all the way into the timing cover. About an 1/8th or so sticks out past the timing cover. That is where the installer tool naturally stopped as I was rotating it in. Did not want to apply any more force. I installed the fan and fan pulley just to make sure that both pulleys lined up. Also included a picture of the timing chain to show that both of the dots lined up nicely. Did not get a chance to install the engine this weekend but hopefully by next weekend it will be back in the car. If you guys can let me know if the balancer is about where it should be, that would be great. Once again, thanks for the help.

 

[drag-200stang]

Looks good to go to me, make sure that you torque the bolt to 85-100 ft.lbs. You will need to make a stop at the flywheel, a spacer and 5/16'' bolt will work. Whatever you do just make sure that it is not hokey and damage anything.

 

[65 Mustang]

Ok. Great. Thanks. The flywheel is off. I screwed two bolts into the back of the crank and placed a pry bar between them and the engine stand. I feel that should be good to prevent the crank from rotating as I am applying torque to the crankshaft bolt.

 

[drag-200stang]

The gear is powdered metal, hard and brittle and can break, that is one reason to use a torque wench as to not over do or under do the tighten of the bolt or installation.
I did that once and it sucks, then I used the flywheel, lot easier. you sill have to do the flywheel bolts anyway and will have similar issues. tape a note bolt is not tight if you put it off.

 

[65 Mustang]

Drag-200stang- not exactly following. Are you suggesting that the method I mentioned to prevent the crank from turning is not a good idea? Do you suggest I take the engine off the stand, attach the flywheel and use 5/16 bolts in the flywheel to prevent the crank from turning? Attaching the flywheel, though, will then require me to secure the crank bolt.

 

[drag-200stang]

I will try to be clearer; the flywheel will want to turn when you torque the flywheel bolts so i bolt a spacer and a bracket to one of the spare clutch bolt holes through the starter opening and let turn up till it hits the block stopping rotation and then torque the flywheel bolts. After that I finish the damper bolt. But whatever works for you is fine. PS do not forget the block plate,

 

[65 Mustang]

Ok. Sounds good. I get what you are saying now. Thanks. Yeah, realizing you forget to put on the block plate after installing the entire clutch assembly would not be good. Thanks again.

 

[frozenrabbit]

you can use a wood wedge between the flywheel and bell housing alignment pins in the back of the block to stop rotation