tune up carb again

[Anonymous]

Well...ive been having problems with my carb...first i thought it was my fuel delivery, but now i know that it was my intake setup...I was changing jets and playing around with stuff cause it was P!$$!ng me off royaly...but today i fuggured it out, and that was after inserting a nice honkin jet, which seems to be a nice size as it doesnt smell really rich and has good power...still need a better airfilter, but that will come later this week...glad i figgured it out as it was only noticeable when i floored it. but now that i have the big honkin jet that seems to work nice, i have a stumble right when i start going...i have to accelerate fairly slowly (not unreasonably so though) and it stumbles a bit, but when i get passed this point i can rip it up...can this be fixed by adjusting the accelerater pump shot? i already have it setup to shoot quite a bit earlier, but i can fix it if i have too, or is this just the problem with a overbored carb and bigger jet? I'm extremely sick of working on the carb so if there are any ideas on this then please speak up as i will only work on it again if it can be fixed. thanks

 

[Anonymous]

K...well i went and played around again with the carb after i cooled down a bit...i couldnt fix it by adjusting the accelerater pump...but i fixed it as best as i could with the timing...I know u guys are all gonna tell meto get a timing light and all that, and i know i should, but is there any other way to tell if your too far retarded (other than people putting u in a white jacket)...its very touchy and not perfect, i had to adjust it slightly and rev the engine each time i moved it, and if i was out 1 or 2 degrees from that spot it would be pretty bad, but the stumble isnt all that bad anymore...and the power is good, maybe i was too far advanced before, although i thought having more advance was better...isnt stock specs for timing something like 8 degrees before TDC or something like that?

 

[66Sprinter]

Warrior,

I got to be honest with all...I have never found my dampner with the timing mark. (I would need a picture and some binoculars)...but with some help from the FSP guys..I was told to advance my timing as far as possible ( I am running pertronix) then take it out and run hard. If it pings, then back it down slightly and retest. The best setup is the most advance you can get without pinging.

Thats me...thats what I got and I ain't complaining. With my new 1100 and Bosch platinums, my engine never ran so good. Its just getting old and clanky sounding..but she does start and run great.

 

[Anonymous]

Dave, the 8 degrees you sighted is about right but you probably can go several more degrees higher. And not to steal Jammers thunder but I've found that doing the same thing, as far as advancing the timing, to be fine. As a matter of fact, several garages around here will do exactly that - rotate the distributor until the engine starts choking and then back it off a hair. Then, they will drive it around the block to check for further knocking or unusual noises.

I'm not advising this technique but it does seem to work well.

After I solved my "ticking" sound I did the vary same thing for timing adjustment. Sure, I have a timing light but you would be surprised how close your ear is to what you should actually have your timing set to. Just takes practice.

Example. I had set my timing to 10 degrees before I found the ticking problem. Anything beyond that and it became very pronounced. After the ticking was eliminated, I was able to rotate the cap a few more degrees before the engine had enough and started to choke. I drove the car awhile and eventually hooked up my timing light just to see how far I had advance the initial timing. Turns out I'm at 16 degrees - just about what others said I should be at for this type of motor.

So, my point is this, try it. You will NOT blow up your engine.



-Chris

 

[66Sprinter]

No one steals my thunder...!!!! ...(Not without my wife's permission of course!)

(Typical male....Uh...honey...wheres my thunder???)

No prob stang....we should prolly get together some night just to trade lies and swap ideas...I think you are pretty close.

But it will have to in 3 weeks or so..I am leaving for Germany this weekend.

Jim

 

[Anonymous]

the problem is that i cant advance it to the point of pinging...i used to be able to do that but there is something wierd about my setup...i drove to work and back and had a chance to test it out a bit...it drives like crap in the city, but highway mileage is extremely awesome..dont get it really, since i have a really big jet (which is why city driving is worse.) I think i'll pick up some gasket material so i can make some more gaskets and try again with the jets. but as far as the timing thing goes, i have it at the best spot (not sure where it is, but the manifold gets pretty hot by what i'm used to (doesnt glow though so I'm good i think, lol) and i cant advance it even a few degrees because it will create a dead spot it the acceleration, before the screwed up carb thing i had it advanced at least 15 degrees further than it is now...so i dont get it. I'm gonna talk to a buddy of mine that works with Lordco and see if he can get me a carb for my engine for a very good price....at least i have something good i can swap to when i get PO'd at this eperimental stuff (at least its driveable :roll: ) What would be the better carb for my 250? the carter YFA or the YF...price difference is minimal and i dont know what the CFM is of the YF or how good it is, but i know others are using em, do u have em on the 250 or just the 200? and should i just get another YFA?

 

[Anonymous]

Hmmmm.

You have a '78 Monarch. Pretty much stock. I'd go with the YAF for a '78 Ford Granada. Not sure what the differences are between the YFA and YAF but this carburetor does flow higher than a YF.

I know you have the kick down rod attached to your carburetor so going with the Weber setup may be very difficult as comparted to just replacing your one barrel for another one barrel carburetor. But, WE could get this option working I'm sure.

I say a Granada because her in the states apparently, or at least in St. Louis, the YAF is about 80 bucks cheaper than the YFA. Again, not sure why but is it.

Does this look like your carburetor?

If it does, then this is the one I'd go with for your ride.

One other idea, if you want, I could get this for you if you got get me the funds. It maybe cheaper this way, not sure but could be another option for you.



-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

I just realized how rude I was to Jammer. Sorry man for not responding to your invitation.

Sounds good but I don't drink or smoke so it would have to be somewhere comfortable for the both of us. Maybe sometime after you get back from Germany. I've got a lot on my plate right now so scheduling a get together might be difficult for me. Maybe lunch?

Let me know.

Now back to Daves question...



-Chris

 

[66Sprinter]

Stang
I dont drink or smoke either...so we will just have to talk about cars.

As for the carb...before I tried tuning up the new one...why not put the old one back on and retune the engine with the dizzy and full advance. Then go back on with the new one and start from their.

I found a Pony carbs manual on the Autolites and Holley's in the NPD catalog. Cost was about $14. I will probably get this while I am in germany. Wonder if there is a carb manual for the weber out there too!

I also plan to see if i can take a train to Harrie's place. That should be something if he has time.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Stang200. That does look like the carb i have. the reason i cant go with my old one is because i tried to bore that one out too and i found out how much i could remove before i went through. oh well. It might be cheaper for me to buy up here, not sure, A YF costs 150.00 cdn, and a YFA probably costs a bit more, so again, not sure...although if i can get my hands on an unwanted holley 2bbl carb that is in good working condition i would consider paying about 250.00 cdn, when its all said and done shipping too and all that...in case someone has something (i know this should be in the wanted section, but its more of a whatever type thing)

 

[Anonymous]

Dave check your PM.

 

[Anonymous]

thanks man, just did that.

An update for my carb:

well...i managed to sort out the vacuum leaks that came and went and tune it, timing is the same and all that just played with a few screws on the carb...but I definitely need a high flow airfilter...but ive gone to work a few times already and gotten an idea on mileage and performance. from what it looks like for mileage i can go to work and back on just under 1/4 tank...i put 30 litres in and that got me from almost empty to 3/4 tank...i used up less than 1/8 of a tank to get to work and back today and monday..tuesday doesnt count cause that was running on the last 1/4 tank which seems to go really fast, but i was also testing the WOT performance of it and all that so it sucked a fair bit more gas than normal...but i know i can go to work and back twice on 1/4 tank....work is about 94 km there and back...so i figgure i'm getting quite good gas mileage for some reason...although performance is crappy, i can get to highway speeds before i hit the highway so I'm fine, but i cant go WOT till about 110 cause before that i stumble and shake and cant accelerate....so I'm fine with the way it is since the gas mileage is really good...i dedicate it as an economy carb now. All i need now is a performance 2bbl carb and I'm set for both power when i want it and economy...SWEET 8)