turbo box 200 ci in production !!

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i found a company in holland who is making now all my abs plastic parts that i,m making and selling . also some new designs .

great guy , verry interested , no problem when i,m making myself the cast models .

did ask him for a few details but he could not give me direct an answhere.

turbo box for the log head , in special thick plastic , chemicalien en heat proof to 110 graden ! he could not give me an answhere onto the question on howmuch pressure it could hold , i think for a light psi pressure it wil hold ? i did design the box in 2 parts with some nice ribs onto it , and option is for intlet onto the front ore site. also come,s with an steel ring that go,s inside 1 of the parts with tread into it for srecwing the parts together , for to give it some extra strengte when bolting it togehter.
btw: this plastic can also rechroomd !!! this is a project , the box wil be made en test ,


my new design cobra oilpan with 1 liter more capacity and cooling ribs , also in the special thick and chemicalien en heat resistend materiaal up to 110 graden !and come,s with an extra tubing onto it for the oil pas from a turbo .

question : how hot can oil be getting in a oilpan ?

also the idee for the disk rotors , the dust shield , i sell lots of disk setups here and a dust shield in abs heat resistend abs would be a nice option for the setups and would make them complete !
how hot wil getting a dust shield ? any idee,s ?
 
I'm thinking the Harley's run around 240 or 250 degrees F.
a water cooled automobile may run a tad cooler, but they still need to be above the boiling point of water to drive off any water vapor from the oil.

Doug
 
The Idea is to keep the oil in the sump below 200 F on a race engine. I would think the return oil on a turbo could exceed this.
If you talk to some racers ot turbo manufacturers they might be able to give you this info. I am sure it depends on how much boost and HP you are after.

The same applies to brakes. I have seen brake rotors glowing orange on race cars. Most street cars do not see theese kind of temps.

I do not know what shape your box will be but the shapes that are flat and square do not like pressure. This sounds enteresting. Keep us posted with results.
 
Wouldnt any kind of plastic be a poor choice for a cooled oil pan simply because of its poor conductive properties. I would think especially in the case of using the material to form cooling fins, it just seems that the heat would never get exchanged because it would take forever to get there. To me it seems like it would be a better application for very cold climates where you would want to hold the heat in and keep the oil from being very viscous.
 
very cold climates


some having problems for running hot , because they have all the day the sun , here it is the other way arround .
 
I have a high performance touring Harley and oil temps never exceed 230*F (95MPH on interstate on a 95*F day for hundreds of miles) and 205 -215 is more common. Older models would exceep 240*F. Oil temps only need to reach 170-180*F to dispell moisture. At that point water starts rapid evaporation and loses all ability to adhere to oil.
--A typical oil temp should be around the temp of your water as the block is a large heat sump.
--The Harley is air and oil cooled(TC engine), oil is squirted on the underside of the piston crowns to lower piston temps.
-have no idea on converting F to Graden.
Typically fossil oils start breaking down around 250* and Syns. around 270.
 
drag-200stang":qasxo3eh said:
My oil temp ran at 210 F ,a degree or two higher than water temp.
Well when it was running, that's about the temp of my oil in the turbo 200, and I do have an oil cooler installed infront of the turbo oil feed line.

Kirk
 
I am a littel concerned about the temps being within range but softenng the plastic. also don't like the idea of shattering a oilpan on a driveway with a cold motor.
 
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