If you have an old fence post, a drill press and a 17/32" reamer, you can do it yourself.
I used the original EFI fuel rail and just bent the injector cups to square them up.
Twin turbo 300
- Thread starter tmc5150
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I used the original EFI fuel rail and just bent the injector cups to square them up.
WesP95
Well-known member
So I'll be running solid roller lifters and a billet cam from Bullet for my 300 turbo build. The distributor gear issue is something I'd like to find more options on. Currently I just have the bronze gear comp offers, is there any "rough" mileage life these average? I'm not huge on the idea of having to change gears often if I use it as a street/strip driver. Does anyone know where to even put in a request for a composit gear?
Ask Bullet cams if a Melonized steel distributor gear is compatible with their billet cams
WesP95
Well-known member
They said either bronze or composite, is there a place that offers melonized even? I didn't any luck finding anything but the bronze or iron versions anyway
May be better in the long run to go remote oil pump and some kind of cam /crank trigger and eliminate the dist. gear. I would be scared of a Composite gear.
Bullet cams can machine a camshaft gear to drive a different distributor gear from another engine.
The problem is still deciding on gear material.
The bronze gear gets changed at every oil change.
The composite gear teeth wear ok, but the thinner body can shatter at the hole for the pin.
The melonized steel gear is the strongest but there is some question as to compatibility with Bullet cams 8620 alloy steel gear.
I put a bronze gear on my 351W and it lasted about 2000 miles before the teeth failed.
I wonder if one of the manufacturers of distributor gears that make the stock gear also make ones for other engines with roller cams would be willing to make some for our group?
What intake is that? Is that the 4.9L fuel rail?If you have an old fence post, a drill press and a 17/32" reamer, you can do it yourself.
I used the original EFI fuel rail and just bent the injector cups to square them up.
Would you happen to have a Clifford unit? I bought a Clifford because of the space limitations of the COE cab. It has small areas for nitrous. I would have to install injector bungs I need to know some dimensions of that intake. I might buy one of those.
And it's a D good looking piece for the long-stroke 300.
look them up at the Aussiespeed website. The distance from the head flange to the outer edge is 11 inches. It's wide. But the long runners will make better torque and more even distribution than Clifford or Offy IMO. Only the factory EFI intake will have better distribution, but if it won't fit in the doghouse, the Ausisspeed probably won't either. Personally, I would consider the doghouse modifications to allow the factory or Ausi manifold to fit. But boost makes up for a lot of intake deficiencies.
If you have a newer Clifford intake with the lumps on it for nitrous, you can drill and ream them for injectors as I did on the Aussie intake. As for the fuel rail, I bent the injector cups to 90 degree using a little heat and the but end of a 1/2" drill bit with tape on the end so it was a snug fit in the cup. You don't want to scratch the inside of the cups and have a fuel leak there. I'm using a throttle body off a 302.
The pads or lumps are very small/ shallow compared to your intake. How much power do you think the stock rail can support? I don't want to deal with pulse issues (pressure drops) and lean issues due to lack of volume in the small tubing.If you have a newer Clifford intake with the lumps on it for nitrous, you can drill and ream them for injectors as I did on the Aussie intake. As for the fuel rail, I bent the injector cups to 90 degree using a little heat and the but end of a 1/2" drill bit with tape on the end so it was a snug fit in the cup. You don't want to scratch the inside of the cups and have a fuel leak there. I'm using a throttle body off a 302.
That is an option.This was done for a doghouse fit using the lower section of the EFI intake.
I can't say how much HP the stock fuel rail will handle, but there are lots of examples of it being used on the stock intake with turbo applications. As the fuel pressure on these engines is higher than most applications, I'd be surprised if the fuel rail was the weak link in the system. If you're doing a intake where the injectors are perpendicular, then it's easy to make-up a fuel rail with readily available aluminum fuel rail extrusion.
The factory one will hit at the back because it's wide all the way across. Thanx for pointing out measurements on the website. I'll look and compare it to the Clifford. I might have to make a styrofoam mock up of the ausie one to check its fit. I'd rather not cut into the floor towards the passenger side. It will get into the heater box and the legs of the passenger side. The doghouse cover will have to be custom to clear the valve cover and intake.
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Ok I have been calling around for some time off and on. Distributor gears for a roller cam other than cast and bronze for the 300. Called Comp, MSD, DUI and other Distributors that are being advertised on eBay. One says its a steel gear but they don't know so gave me the manufacturer and I called them. I don't think they manufacturer them either.....they can't tell me what grade of steel. I have done some searching around and see that there maybe be an early tooth count of 15 and newer count of 16. Are all years .530 shaft size? I contacted a heat treat company in Phoenix. They want $500 to heat treat and Melonize a steel gear. He recommended 4140 for the gear material if I had one made locally. Does anyone have any info on different year shaft sizes and gear counts?
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