UPDATE: Bypassing the heater plate on my Autolite...

[Anonymous]

The most noteworthy being that it ain't an Autolite...

http://home.earthlink.net/~morgan.whitn ... rprise.JPG

Am I correct that it appears to be a Holley 1940? (And yes, I see the pools of coolant on the intake... the leaking hose has been replaced). Can anyone point me to some info on how to dial in a 1940? (I guess I need to change my sig line too...)

On another note... I have replaced the leaky hoses and now have the cooling system buttoned up tight. Now she is running hot (according to the dash temp gauge). The indicator is pointing towards the "P" of TEMP

Prior to replacing the coolant, all hoses, radiator cap, thermostat and water pump, the pointer would point to the middle of the "M." The reading would fluctuate some (higher at idle... between the "M" and the "P"... on the highway it would point to the left side of the "M"). I was also running a 195* thermostat... it was replaced with a 180*.

The temp is now rock steady on the "P." The engine, however, does not perform like it's running too hot.

Since I don't necessarily trust the 40+ year old gauge... is there a cheap, easy to install temp gauge that y'all can suggest?

 

[Shrinkdude]

I had that once when I replaced my thermostat. I found out that idiot me put it in backwards. You might pull off the top hose and stick your finger in there to see if you put it in backwards. My readings went from being on the P to around the T after I put it right.

 

[Mercury Mike]

Definitely check the tstat. You can pull it to make sure that it's opening at the right point, use a thermometer in a boiling pot of water, watch the tstat. It should open at the specified temperature. And you're right, that's a holley 1940. Once your timing is dialed in (very important to have timing right first), then you can start working on the idle. Slow it down as far as you can with the idle speed screw, then turn the idle mixture in until it starts to chug. Back it out until it starts to run good, then turn it back in until it starts to chug. You want the mixture to make it run the best. You can use a vacuum gauge to get the best results. Tune for most vacuum. Then use a tachometer to get the right speed. You may have to go back and forth between speed and mixture a few times, but it will definitely get dialed in soon enough. It looks like your carb could use a good cleaning, though! =D

 

[Anonymous]

Once your timing is dialed in (very important to have timing right first), then you can start working on the idle. Slow it down as far as you can with the idle speed screw, then turn the idle mixture in until it starts to chug. Back it out until it starts to run good, then turn it back in until it starts to chug. You want the mixture to make it run the best. You can use a vacuum gauge to get the best results. Tune for most vacuum. Then use a tachometer to get the right speed. You may have to go back and forth between speed and mixture a few times, but it will definitely get dialed in soon enough. It looks like your carb could use a good cleaning, though! =D

Checked timing... I hadn't done so since the new balancer was put in. It was WAAAY to advanced... about 20*. I dialed it back to 9*. She's running cooler now... temp needle is rock solid pointing between the "M" and the "P." Still a bit higher than before (however, the last couple of days ambient temps have been near 70 and sunny so the higher water temp may be a result of higher ambient).

I did double check the t-stat before installing... spring side went into the head.

As for my newly discovered Holley 1940... which screw is idle speed and which is mixture??

... and unfortunately... I have cleaned the carb (is a rebuild in order... seems to be running fine?)

 

[Mercury Mike]

If it runs good, LEAVE IT ALONE! The idle mixture screw is the one shown in the picture, on the bottom of the carb. That will adjust A/F. The fast mixture screw is on the other side, firewall side of the carb. =D