**UPDATED **Now where does this go again? **UPDATED**

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Well, as far as taking to a machine shop to diagnose it, i dont know if that is really feasiable because i have already torn the entire block apart. Wal-Mart could just as easily argue that I caused the damges while tearing the block apart. Unfortunately I didnt get them to put it in writing that they ran it with out oil. As far as miles go, I honestly dont know. My origional engine blew piston rings and I got this one out of a junkyard, and it was in perfect condition, I had them tear it down to the block before i bought it so i could see everything. It never tapped, knocked, pinged etc prior to this.

Well last night I couldent sleep, the more I thought about Wal-Mart causeing I knew I just had to do some thing, so I wrote a letter to their nation custom service center and e-mailed it off. Here it is...

"I am writing to you in concern of a service a local Wal-Mart provided me.

On 2-18-2004 I took my car to Wal-Mart #5041 Tire & Lube Express to have the oil changed in my car. After a very long wait my car was serviced. As my car is a classic car, I watched very closely the way your technicians serviced it. All seemed well until they started up the car. It made a screeching sound, I figured this was due to the new oil and all the parts were not coated yet, but after almost two minutes of screeching I yelled at the technician to shut my car off. I inquired as to how much oil they put in my car, and he stated 3 quarts. Outraged, I informed him that my engine required a minimum of 4.5 quarts. He stated that he did not consult the manual, as they didn’t have one on my car as to how much oil was required. He put in an extra quart and a half and started the engine back up and the screeching stopped. The car was returned to me soon after and I drove it directly home (approx. 2 miles).

The next morning I had a meeting in Olympia (approx. 40 miles from my home). I was about 30 miles into the trip when the engine started “tappingâ€￾ and “knockingâ€￾ and “shudderingâ€￾ and then quit on the freeway. The car would not start and I was forced to tow it home later that day. This week, I removed the head from the engine to inspect the damage done. All of my cylinders had major scoring in them, and the third piston’s connecting rod was completely broken and could be pulled through the top of the cylinder block. The camshaft was chewed to bits and it completely destroyed four lifters and one entire push rod.

The damage done to the engine, from what research I’ve done, is typical for an engine that has been run without oil, such as the case in your shop. The engine it totaled and can not be rebuilt for a reasonable cost. The only cause of action is to purchase a new or rebuilt engine (approx. $1,100 to $2,000).

I believe the failing of my engine is directly linked to the running of the engine without oil in the Wal-Mart Tire & Lube Express Shop. I would like to know what Wal-Mart is willing to do to rectify the situation, which its shop caused. Please e-mail me at, goatbarron@centurytel.net or call me at .....

Thank you"

Dunno if that will do anything but yeah.
 
8) that is a well written email and it should get you some attention. like phil said, try to get them to buy you at least a new short block, and settle for paying for half the cost of a new short block.

as far as your daily driver, a purple taurus :shock: :shock: :shock: the least you could have done is get a white one :wink: :wink: :wink: :D :D :D [/quote]
 
Yeah, the taurus is my dads, but i usually drive my moms 2004 chrystler concord. NICE. But its a grandma car, True i really dont ecpect them to but a whole engine. I expect them to pay about half. Since the final casue was their fault, but the engine was old etc. Ill let ya know what happens, I probably wont find anything out till monday or tuesday.
 
Save all the old bits. Lay them out and photograph them (since you tore down the motor). You can also test reassemble unbroken parts and look for evidence of recent dry running.

It will take some while to achieve any result with the store if you're seeking compensation. In the end they may offer a percentage of the cost of the cheapest bottom end rebuild... Certainly do not hinge your financial plan on their meeting your request.

Keep on with the rebuild of choice, and document everything. It's the only way to preserve the validity of your claim.

Adam.
 
Goatbarron":2540wbsx said:
Well, as far as taking to a machine shop to diagnose it, i dont know if that is really feasiable because i have already torn the entire block apart.
Sure you can, and it's even easier now. Do it! They don't have to disassemble the engine to diagnose oil starvation. Just make sure you take the parts and pieces (block, crank, rods, & pistons).

Wal-Mart would be hard pressed to argue you caused oil starvation damage during tear down, especially if you do like Addo suggests and photograph every detail.

Being properly prepared for battle leads to victory!!! :twisted:
 
i wonder if walmart did something worse. like start it with the oil filter loose or the wrong filter? if it had three quarts the pump would have still fully pressured up the crank within about 5 seconds. maybe they blew 2-3 quarts out the side instead of into the engine.

econolube installed the wrong filter on a toyota i had once. the threads were apparently slightly loose. the filter blew off when i started it the next morning. the oil light came on within about 30 ft and i shut down. they had used the totally wrong part number. i wrote a letter to them and got some free services.

i hope you do get some form of compensation frankie
 
ok well heres an update on the situation....

After a week waiting, Wal Mart finally called!!! I was astonished to say the least. They guy on the end of the phone was a claims agent with their insurance agent. Kinda a dick to me but i guess thats the way most insurance adjustars are (ive had a few encountars with them). We talked for about 20 min about the car and the problems. He said that Wal Mart would most likey pay for a new engine but he needed to ask some questions first. What was happening to it when it quit. I told him the story. What happened to make it Wal Marts fault. I told him the story again. Why did i wait so long to call them? I think i kinda pissed him off when i told him that my family and i thought that since wal mart is a super corporation they would just brush me off and say piss on you. But oh well. Finally he asked if i had done anything to the engine since.... uh oh... I knew i was in for it. I reluctantly told him i removed the head to inspect the damge done to my cyindar walls etc. With a since of richusness he proclaimed that i more or less just screwed myself over. That since ive touched the engine wal mart cannot say for sure anymore that it was their fault, but he would still see if it is a possibility that they wil still follow through. Most likely though he said that i will get nothing now. &*^(*&%#@^%%(&*(&*(&%$#@$#@@!*() AHHHHH!!!!!!

This makes me so mad. Any mechanic with half a brain can tell the differnce between damage done form oil starvation and human foul play. OMG. Well he is supposed to call me tomorrow and tell me if they can do anything about it. I hope so.

By the way, I got an estimate on a new long block form a local shop, they are quoteing me 1180. With a 5 year 50k warrenty.

One question, i asked him about swaping out the cam to a 250 cam. He said he could do it for me. Is this really a big gain that worth the 100 bucks he will charge me? Is there another cam from another engine that i can use in its stead?
 
Last month I had a pipe freeze on me and water pouring out of the basement ceiling at 4AM. I quickly ripped ceiling down to get the water out of there so I could determine where the problem was and start cleaning up. The insurance adjuster showed up 4 days later, wrote a check and we we're finished putting everything back together. How would I know what the problem was if I didn't pull things apart?? Catch my drift??
Whether you or anyone else disassembled the motor to see what was wrong makes no difference, the motor shows what happened do to lack of oil and you know were it happened. My action would be to let this guy know it can cost them $1500 to replace the motor or $1500 + attorney fees +rental car fees + your time to replace the motor. Simple as that. Your case is pretty iron clad since the motor damage was heard and seen to happen while in the shop. Taking it apart to asses the damage has nothing to do with who caused the damage. Be nice but firm. Your the damaged party here.

Steve
 
GB & Steve, that's kind of how I looked at it, too. The only "snag" is the fact that the teardown was not overseen by a licensed mechanic. A statutory declaration from such (if you are lucky to know one personally) about your competence might help there.

Unless your state's way out in the scheme of things, your spoken comments can be substantially discounted against any written comments (submissions) you make. It's possible to assert that the guy on the other end "walked" you to the statements you made him - heaven knows, they do it all the time to avoid payouts. Write back immediately saying you were unhappy with the way he manipulated your words and responses during the discussion. When writing back this time lay out your "evidence" and state clearly your claim against them as it stands. If you are game, include an offer (here we call it "without prejudice") for them to meet some of your claimed costs - state what and how much - and close the book. Request written responses only, not telephone.

Every time they have to read your letters, run it by a legal person, type a response, file and mail it, they are getting further behind. So a "reasonable offer" may seem tempting to them.

If you can get the forensic mechanical opinions you need, the very least WallyWorld should be up for is a regrind/exchange on the crank, rods; new bottom end basically. It's hard to lay bore wear on them.

Hang in there, stay civil and sane!

Cheers, Adam.
 
And I repeat:
Falcon62":3dl3d480 said:
Sure you can, and it's even easier now. Do it! They don't have to disassemble the engine to diagnose oil starvation. Just make sure you take the parts and pieces (block, crank, rods, & pistons).
Afterall, you're out at least $1200, so IMO, it would be worth having a machine shop check it out even if they charge you something to do so. Don't let Wally World roll over you!!!! :evil: :evil: :evil:

One question, i asked him about swaping out the cam to a 250 cam. He said he could do it for me. Is this really a big gain that worth the 100 bucks he will charge me? Is there another cam from another engine that i can use in its stead?
For that much dinero, I'd get an aftermarket cam. Maybe a Comp Cams 252, smooth idle and better performance than stock. Check Ford Six Performance parts and see what Mike has avaialbe.
 
Ok, well here is an even further up date. Well wal-mart called back and basicly said oh well your screwed. So this weekend im going to go out and buy me a new long block. Im currently making my needed parts list. Since I really am on a tight budget im just going to go with a stock rebuild for now. So far Ive removed all the externeous parts from the engine and have it down to whats left of the block. Im going to pick it up and saturday and make a whole day project out of it. Ill let you know next week how it goes, or as soon as im done.
 
Well today was a great day for Chris, at least for most of it. Well i went and picked up my engine today and brought it home, YEAH!!!! I got it home and started looking it over, and on a whim i tried to match the water pump up, i dont know why but i did. Well unfortuanly i already found something wrong, the water pump dosent fit!!! The bore on the head is too small and it dosent fit exactly right. I think that i can make it fit if i file out the hole a little, oh well just a little more work for chris. It is a 68 or 69 head on it, not sure exactly which one, the bore for in intake is an inch a 3/4th so thats good. If anyone knows of a site that i can post pictures on i will put some pics up of the rebuild and the final stuff. Ill let you know how it goes when Im done.
 
Goatbarron":1g5w0qc0 said:
Ok, well here is an even further up date. Well wal-mart called back and basicly said oh well your screwed. So this weekend im going to go out and buy me a new long block. Im currently making my needed parts list. Since I really am on a tight budget im just going to go with a stock rebuild for now. So far Ive removed all the externeous parts from the engine and have it down to whats left of the block. Im going to pick it up and saturday and make a whole day project out of it. Ill let you know next week how it goes, or as soon as im done.


8) have the parts checked by a certified mechanic, and have them write up a report about the cause of the engine failure, have it notorized, then file a suit in small claims court against walmart. dont let the get away with this. small claims court is fairly cheap to file in, so even if you lose you are not out much.
 
Well this was a long and tiresome weekend. The good news is I got my new engine, and put it almost all together. I left a few things off just to help with the install. Here are some pics

http://public.fotki.com/goatbarron/mustang/

Well everything went decently well through the weekend. Pulling the old engine out, one of the chains slipped and i droped the old block from about 3 feet in the air, whoops. Later i sliced my middle finger open while trying to remove an oil seal from my timing chain cover. So i probably shoulda gone and got stiches, i can see the meat in there hmm not good, but the desire to work on my car over took me. I got it all put together and was ready to put it in torque converter and it wont fit. AHHH!!! I spent 4 hours trying to put that darn thing in and finally gave up when the sun started to set. I dont know whats wrong with it. I got it on the shaft and seated kinda. It pushes in the the housing of hte convert is flush with the bell housing, but the 4 blots still stick out too car and the engine cant mount to the tranny. I cant push it in anymore and i cant figure this out. Any ideas? Feel free to use MSN or AIM to contact me.
 
8) are you spinning the converter as you push it in? you should feel two notches, one when it engauges the input shaft splines, and hte other when it engauges the pump drive tangs.
 
Sliced thumb? Superglue!

Clean it out, disinfect it, squeeze the two sides together and smear on the superglue. Works great. Just make sure the cut area is dry. It usually doesn't even hurt after gluing it up. Heals fast.
 
well, ill put it on and it will just spin around then it will slide in some and then stop again, it will spin and feel like its spining one of the shafts, but it wont go in any father, and weve spun it sround very slowly pushing it in and it wont go in at all, any ideas
 
Check to see if the clutch bearing is still in the crank shaft opening for a manual trans. There may be a brass bushing in there. Been there and done that.

Steve in VA
 
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