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Anonymous
Guest
Okay, gimme your tips and tricks. I've tried rubber, cork, and cork w/rtv, and I can't get this thing sealed up. Fire away.
HotRodLarry
Well-known member
I've always used Felpro cork gaskets and Permatex black RTV with no problems. I did the one on my 200 this past spring and it hasn't leaked yet. When I tighten the bolts, it's usually hand tight, then snug them up with a wrench. I've had more problems with the valve covers on my Camaro than I have my 200, and I used the same technique on both.
Simple, just purchase a valve cover from Mike at www.classicinlines.com
Then use a cork gasket.
My engine has been leak free since. William
Then use a cork gasket.
My engine has been leak free since. William
Have always used FelPro neoprene when available for application.Never had a problem.Leo
Mercury Mike
Famous Member
What valve cover are you using? Stock, or chrome? Or what?
kirkallen143
Famous Member
65Stang200":lvi6gk8h said:
Jerry's is the stock vc.
kirkallen143
Famous Member
I always have the problem of the gasket squeezing out of the sides once they are torqued down to 7-8 ftlbs.
Kirk
Kirk
mustang652
Well-known member
bigjhoov":epcj31t9 said:
Clean the lip of the valve cover and sealing edge of head with 3M adhesive cleaner. Put a very thin even coat of blue or black RTV on valve cover. Smooth it out as even as possible and keep it thin. Allow it to become tacky. Place gasket on cover and lightly press it it down to insure even adhesion and place all the valve cover bolts through the bolt holes to hold it in place. Let the whole thing sit over night. When I install, it's more or less tighten from center out over starting with a light tightening progressing to a snug fit over a couple of hour period. Has worked for me on Chrome steel version and later a non AZ Mike cast aluminum. One additional item that I have found that helps is trim the tabs on the gasket down it they do not fit perfectly.
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
kirkallen143":3h7u1xwj said:
I think thats your prob.. 7-8 ftlbs. it should be INCH LBs..
You only need to snug them up.. put RTV blue on the valve cover side so it sticks to the valve cover and nothing on the head side so you can remove and replace as needed with out hurting the gasket. I just have mine hand tight with a socket and extention (NO HANDLE OR RATACH) and I have had NO leaks..
good luck
Tim
Yeah, with that much torque you may have deformed the lip of the cover. Check it with a straightedge and spooge it back in place with soft-jawed pliers and a love tap here and there. It works a lot better without the arcs between the bolts. There is no pressure under there to contain. Just oil and fumes.
kirkallen143
Famous Member
You know that is funny! Because I checked and double checked the bronco manual and for sure it said 7-8 ftlbs. when the first time I got into this engine. I have no leaks though and used a process similar to that "mustang652" has mentioned.
Kirk
Kirk
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Anonymous
Guest
my aftermarket vc leaked less that the stock one...because my mechanic bent the edge the right way....they stamping was way less than perfect
I think everyone agrees that you need a good straight valve cover to begin with. I lightly hand tightened them with a small ratchet. I've always used cork gasket and permatex'd it to the valve cover and only used high-temp grease on the motor side, so it can pulled off anytime the valve train needs inspecting. Also, you can use those chrome valve cover spreaders that distribute the load from the bolt a lot better. The beautiy of using high-temp grease is that you don't risk getting chunks of hardened gasket sealant drips plugging up small oil passages.
That has worked out for me for years especially back in high school when my British inline six had mechanical lifters. I had the valve cover off every weeekend adjusting those rockers. It just pops off and is totally reusable! I also use high-temp grease for waterpumps, oil pans & timing covers. If you're having leaks, it's because your valve cover is warped or bent somewhere. Basically, if there are leaks, the two mating surfaces are not clean and/or true. The same principle is true for a head gasket.
Good luck,
That has worked out for me for years especially back in high school when my British inline six had mechanical lifters. I had the valve cover off every weeekend adjusting those rockers. It just pops off and is totally reusable! I also use high-temp grease for waterpumps, oil pans & timing covers. If you're having leaks, it's because your valve cover is warped or bent somewhere. Basically, if there are leaks, the two mating surfaces are not clean and/or true. The same principle is true for a head gasket.
Good luck,
mustang652
Well-known member
jahearne":1vev1rqb said:
Not familiar with high temp grease, but that sounds like a good idea and will add it to what I do. What is a good brand and where do I get it.
Thanks
I always make sure the valve cover is flat around the holes first. Then I use a light film of RTV or similar to secure the gasket to the valve cover. I'll often let it sit for a little while to ensure the RTV cures and the gasket stays put.
Then I use four of the chebby style valve cover hold downs to help spread the load. They won't fit in all the positions.
Then use a nut driver to tighten. Anything more is overkill.
Then I use four of the chebby style valve cover hold downs to help spread the load. They won't fit in all the positions.
Then use a nut driver to tighten. Anything more is overkill.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Thanks guys, I'll give it a try.
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