Water Pump Woes

[Anonymous]

Hello All, I tried to replace my water pump last weekend. Everything was going well until I found that the top right most bolt of the 3 was completely rusted. When attempting to remove the bolt, the head of it came right off. The bolt stud is still in the shaft, and none of it is sticking out so i can't use vice grips to try and get it out. I'm going to try and use easy out to pull the bolt remnants out on Saturday. My questions are:

1. Is there a better way than the easy out? I'm very worried about messing up the threading when drilling since there isn't much of a flat surface on the bolt to work on.

2. Does anyone know what the proper length & grade of the bolt is?

Thanks everyone!!

Jim

 

[addo]

It's a grade 5 bolt (max), and you're looking for no more than (say) 3/8 of thread engagement.

There are better tools than easy-outs. If you have the opportunity, a left-handed drill set will be useful.

 

[fordconvert]

I dont remember is that one of the holes that goes all the way through? At least one does doesnt it? Did the bolt turn at all before it broke? You may need some serious heat to get it broke loose.

 

[CobraSix]

Easy out is about the only way to do it unless you have access to a machine shop and can drill it completely out, retap and helicoil the hole.

If you are worried about the threads, there are a few things you can do.

1) Use a punch to give you a good center hole. Start with a small bit to start a pilot hole about 1/4" deep. Then go up 1 or 2 sizes in bits and repeat until you get the size hole you need for the easy out.

2) If you do ding the threads a little, get a tap and die kit and rechase the threads to clean them up (not a bad idea either way).

A good question was asked, did the bolt turn at all? If not, you'll need some heat and PB Blaster to help loosen it up.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Thank you all for the input/advice!!
In regards to:

A good question was asked, did the bolt turn at all? If not, you'll need some heat and PB Blaster to help loosen it up.

Slade

the head came completely off right at the beginning. I thought at first the bolt was loose since the wrench was turning with no resistance, but it was because the head came right off. I'll borrow a torch and heat it etc as per suggestions.

Should I heat the bolt before drilling? If so, do i wait for it to cool before drilling or start while its hot?

Finally, the head did not break evenly and the bolt that I'll be drilling into is not a flat surface, I was thinking of using a small dremel grinder to try and smooth it out, any comments/alternatives on that idea?
Thanks again!
Jim

 

[Anonymous]

I don't remember is that one of the holes that goes all the way through? At least one does doesn't it?

From feeling around in the cooling chamber it feels like this one has a shaft that keeps it from hitting cylinder one. The one that seems to be exposed in the cooling chamber is the bottom left bolt.
Jim

 

[fordconvert]

Flat surface will be easier to drill into. I would say have it cool when drilling since it will make the bit last longer. I would try the heat / lube / pounding first to see if it will loosen up. Since it broke that easy maybe it was not a hardend bolt and will drill easy. If it does get loose you could try cutting a slot for a screwdriver in it and turn it out. I have heard wax is a good thing to use on stuck bolts becaue it wont burn off like oils will. It has to be old style wax not the modern dripless candle stuff.

 

[Bort62]

Just drill into it and use an easy out. Its not really a big deal.

If that won't work, you can drill the bolt out and save the threads you just have to be careful.

I broke the head off a bolt on my PP once at like 10 oclock at night. I did not have an easy out and really wanted to get the trans in.

I figured out how to drill progressively larger holes to the point where I could run the correct tap into the hole and chase the bolt reminents out. Worked great.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

heat cucle the bolt a few times if you can. heat what is left a dull orange (just to see some color in it) and then let it cool for a coupel hours. repeat and apply some WD40 or similar right after heating (while it is hot) a few heat cycles and try welding a nut on should do it.