Weber 32/36 DGEV choke backwards?

[Redfalken]

I'm working on putting a Weber 32/36 DGEV on my `69 200 and am puzzled with the electric choke. I couldn't get it to work while bench testing and I think I may have the wrong bimetal element if that's possible. If you take the plastic piece with the coil in it off and you're looking at the coil, it expands with heat and turns clockwise (the direction of the coil from the center out is counterclockwise). Well...that actually closes the choke butterflys (engaging the choke) as it cools off, the butterflys open.

Unless I'm missing something, this seems backwards to me. Is there a model that has the choke on the other side?

 

[rust collector]

Yes!

I don´t remember much about webers, but some models are mirror images of the rest of them...

I am sure someone has better info, but they are out there...

 

[66200i6]

Flip it over.

When the alloy heats up it expands. Keep in mind if you need it to expand clockwise or counter clockwise. Set the coil flat on the table and visualize which way the coil will rotate as it expands. Remember that the center of the coil is anchored at the point it is installed on the cap. By flipping the coil back and forth you will be able to tell how to reinstall correctly.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[Redfalken]

I considered flipping it over but it looked like it was wedged in there pretty tight. Then again, if this one isn't correct and I may need to get another one anyway...I might as well pry at it a little harder. Not a big loss if it breaks.

 

[xctasy]

The Pinto 2000, 2300, Capri 2300/2600, 2800 and Mustang 2800 had a Holley~Weber 32/36 DGEV (Manual Choke, reversed side) like these three below. From 1970 to about 1975, then it was all American Holley 5200 series. There are differences, but I'm not certain about what they are exactly. The carb is essentially a mechanical secondary carb, but the flap is partly vaccum operated when the throttle is floored.

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The European made carbs (with Bresel or WeberID plates) had the choke on the other side for some reason, even though the engines were often made in the same German plant that supplied the rest of the world. Some had blead back lines too, so there are many variants.

They were the
32/36 DGV (Manual Choke)
32/36 DGEV (Electric Choke)
32/36 DGAV (Water Choke)

 

[MercuryMarc]

Kenny-
Yes- there are chokes that work both ways- I swapped out my water choke for an electric one, and I was sent one that had the spring wound in the reverse direction. I called the company and was sent the proper one (a mirror immage of the initial one). I also tried to remove the spring but I was told that the act of removing it can distort the coil and mess it up. I suggest you get one that is wound in the proper direction if yours is not correct- about $15 + shipping from Tim at Electro-Dyne (in New York):
pdepetris@wzrd.com
He was very helpful and the choke works great.
Good Luck!

 

[Redfalken]

Thanks for all the advice and great photos. They give me some good ideas on linkage. That's the last thing I need to get figured out before I can give it a try.

I was able to pry the coil out of the slot in the middle post and turn it around without damage. Did another bench test and it opened right up after a minute or so. I'll probably get me a fresh one but I'm waiting to figure out what jets I might need to order to get it running properly.

Thanks again everyone for the info. Very helpful as always!

 

[Guest]

Glad you got it figured out That's very interesting that it was backwards. Maybe that tells you exactly how many miles are on the carb as it was never run long enough to figure that out :

 

[Redfalken]

Hi Al,

I thought it got kinda cold there in Massachusetts and wondered how it might have went through a winter without some problems. An easy fix though. It's a clean carb and I'm anxious to get it going.

On a side note, here's a couple of photos of an adapter plate I made out of 3/16" plate. I wanted to use the Stovebolt adapter to save money and get the fuel bowl oriented correctly towards the front of the car but the stock spacer would have set the carb pretty tall. My manifold opening is 1-3/4" so I used a hole saw to drill that opening on the plate and tapped 2 holes for studs that hold on the Stovebolt adapter. Drilled 2 more holes for the bolts that go into the manifold and shaped it on the grinder.

I also did a fair amount of porting to the Stovebolt adapter to max out flow and cut off the extra bolt holes on its originally square base. I just thought it would look less "clunky". Now it's on to the linkage this weekend.

 

[MercuryMarc]

Kenny-
Looks great! Are you going to tap a hole in the adapter for the PCV vacuum source?

 

[Redfalken]

Thanks Marc. The plate is too thin and so are the walls of the Stovebolt adapter so I'm putting a brass tee in the hole on the log where the tranny modulator goes, just below the carb. I've also got a vacuum gauge so it's a 3-way tee.

 

[Titleist16]

I also have this carb and it' running a little rich and I can't remember which way to turn the screw to lean it out A little help here guys!

 

[Redfalken]

I haven't even begun to look into tuning procedures yet so I'm no help but there are some tech notes at http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/T ... ntents.htm that explain adjusting lean best idle and a few other things.

Generally turning a screw clockwise will make it lean if it's air/fuel mix but that's just my limited knowledge based on my Autolite 1100.

(EDIT) And also, from what I've read, the only way to get it running leaner off idle is to change out your jets. Still haven't got a good grasp on what size jets would be best but I think there are a lot of variables that effect it. First thing to do is look at the jets and write down all the sizes you currently have. I may take mine in to a local carburetor shop with a chassis dyno and have them adjust it.

 

[xctasy]

One forum member has been kind enough to show where the ports are.

If you need emissions to comply with the specs, then use this ported vacum signal valve. It allows the engine to run lean when warmed up.

And just to see the differences between the two types of handed Weber carbs on our sixes, see these.