All Small Six Weber 32/36 rough idle

[63 Sprint]

Guys…, we all know the mechanical fuel pumps for the Ford in-line six are a crap shoot. And, if they do work, it’s usually just for a while. So, why even use them? From what others seen, including myself, today’s mechanical pumps are junk. Carter mechanical fuel pumps been failing just as much as the Chinese pumps. Why? Because Carter was caught labeling boxes saying made in USA on Chinese built pumps. Is this what we’re supposed to accept? NO! You move forward and use a reliable pump.

What has been a more reliable fuel pumps these days? Electric pumps.

Quite a few members here know that I prefer using an electric fuel pump with a pressure regulator that has a return. But… some member don’t want to go that far.

Weber carbs operate at lower pressure so this might possibly make setting up a Weber cab slightly more involved.

beanmiester,
You already have the Weber regulator. Then you only need a pump that is compatible.

Is the regulator a deadhead type?

Below I posted some pumps that are compatible with Weber carbs. The company that sells these pumps claim that a regulator is not needed.

Facet Cylindrical 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2.75-4 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Typical flow 10 gallons per hour at 2 psi. 1/8 NPT female ports. Facet pump number 477060 (E). Facet Interruptor pumps now feature reliable solid-state technology instead of points!

www.pegasusautoracing.com

Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump Kit, 1/8 NPT, 1.5-4 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

The Facet 40104 Cube 12 Volt Fuel Pump delivers a maximum flow of 28 GPH or 1.5-4 psi max pressure, good for FF1600. 1/8 NPT female ports.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

Facet Posi-Flo 12v Fuel Pump Kit, 1/8 NPT, 1.5-4 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

This Facet Posi-Flo, Low Pressure Fuel Pump kit is for moderate fuel requirements of engines up to about 100 horsepower. Maximum delivery is about 23 gallons per hour with a 4 psi maximum pressure.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

Note:
With cube pumps, if one is not enough you can run two in parallel for higher output applications.

Facet cube pumps are proven on industrial applications for thousands of hours with no failures.

Frank, you’re running one. How is it working for you?

 

[beanmiester]

Ok so with the electric pump I'm able to put it somewhat near where my old one would be right?

 

[63 Sprint]

The preferred place is close to the fuel tank. This helps reduce vapor lock. And if the engine does vapor lock, the pump will still work to clear out a vapor lock. You can try putting the pump somewhat near the old pump and see how it works.

 

[Frank]

So what would be the easiest way to incorporate the filter/regulator? Would i have to run a line all the way to the tank or is there an easier way to do it? Mine doesn't have a drain plug on it so i'd have to figure something out.

Put the filter high, just before the carb. Run the return as far away from the engine as possible and return it to anywhere on the suction side of the pump. Into the tank is better as it gives more dilution of the hot return fuel with cooler tank fuel. But a Tee into the short rubber hose between the pump inlet and hardline to the tank is ok.

Facet cube pumps are proven on industrial applications for thousands of hours with no failures.

Frank, you’re running one. How is it working for you?

Yes so far the Facet Cube pump on the f100 has been flawless. Another advantage to electric is carburetor priming after the truck has sat unused for a week or two. The pump is on an on/off dash switch, so it can be turned on before cranking a dry carb to prime it, and cut off before engine shut off in hot summer conditions, eliminating hot-soak flooding. To help assure long life the pump-mounted on the frame just in front of the tank- has a dedicated relay powered electric circuit, heavy gauge wires for both the hot and the ground. It is grounded on a clean ground lug under the hood, not to the 46 year old dirty frame rail.

 

[beanmiester]

For informations sake if the pump is fine and not putting out too much pressure and the needle/float is fine what else could it be?

 

[63 Sprint]

Did you check the float level? I believe this was asked once before.

Do not assume that the float level is correct when you get the carb. If the package was dropped, it could knock it out of spec. Checking the float level is one of the first steps when adjusting a carb.

 

[DON]

Well, spark, fuel/ air, compression and timed. The basics of what is needed. You could check timing and compression when issue happens. If you don’t have a spare module, get one, try it, no different, put the old one back in, keep the new one for a spare. Usually compression doesn’t change with a little heat. That is probably why everyone is focused on fuel- the most likely suspect at this point.

 

[63 Sprint]

beanmiester,
Does the fuel pressure regulator that you purchased have a return?

 

[beanmiester]

beanmiester,
Does the fuel pressure regulator that you purchased have a return?

No. Its a redline weber regulator that came with the kit. Also its funny seeing the name I made because i couldn't think of one being used this much lol

 

[beanmiester]

Im going to be able to test the pressure on Wednesday. If its fine I'll check the needle and seat. I belive the float and jets were pre set by vintage inlines but I'm not 100% sure so I'll look at that too. If everything else is fine I'll try the return.

 

[63 Sprint]

beanmiester,
The first thing that should be done before anything else is check the float level. If the package was dropped hard in shipping, the float level could be off.

 

[63 Sprint]

Frank,
Please discontinue posting until we have a clearer understanding of what we’re dealing with. I’m working on finding out what parts that are going to be used. He has a deadhead regulator. Installing a return after the regulator outlet and plumbing back in the regulator suction end might not work with the parts that are already installed.

I’m working directly with beanmiester by PM.

 

[Frank]

Frank,
Please discontinue posting until we have a clearer understanding of what we’re dealing with. I’m working on finding out what parts that are going to be used. He has a deadhead regulator. Installing a return after the regulator outlet and plumbing back in the regulator suction end might not work with the parts that are already installed.

I’m working directly with beanmiester by PM.

Ok . . so you ask me a direct question, I answer, and now you tell me to stand down. Interesting. I'll be quiet. Let me know when you get it sorted out.

 

[63 Sprint]

Frank,
The only direct question I asked you is in post #141. And you answered it in post #144. Thank you, It’s good to hear that the Facet cube pump is working like a champ. And I expected nothing less. The reason why I asked you the question is so others can see that there’s a cheap and reliable option available instead of relying on poor quality mechanical fuel pumps. And thanks for posting the benefits of using one.

I asked you to discontinue posting until we have a clearer understanding of what we’re dealing with. And earlier this morning I got information that is beneficial in a PM. That’s all.

I felt that there was too much information being given by everyone (myself included) I felt we were making things confusing for beanmiester. Now we have more information that is helpful and you are now linked into the discussion because of your experience with the Facet cube pumps.