I replaced my autolite 1100 with a NEW Weber 38 on a 66 Mustang as the autolites I could find always had worn throttle shafts and were always beyond rebuilding. So I jet the weber so it idles very nicely and drives down the road with no hesitation or flatspots. When it is cold, 1 or 2 pumps is all it takes and it fires right up no problem at all. Car warms up choke opens fully (electric choke is hooked to stator terminal on alt.) and you are ready to go. Come back after a trip and shut the car off and let it sit for 20 minutes and try to start it. If I don't pump it it cranks and cranks. If I pump or hold it open it it will eventually fire up but runs weak as if it is only on a few cylinders but if I give it a few good revs it will return to a nice idle and you are ready for take off. I experienced this problem with aulolite 1100's also along with many other problems so it leads me to believe its other than carb related. I am running a new mechanical fuel pump (tried electric pump mounted near tank but made no diff and went back to mech). New radiator and everything, never runs over half on the temp gauge. Ignition is a rebuilt '68 points distributor with blue streak points and cap, at 15 degrees btdc running through an MSD 5 with vac advance hooked up to the proper port on the weber and a new bosch blue coil. No apparent vacuum leaks.
This car runs well, it has 93,000 miles and I don't think its ever been opened up. It idles smoothly, no knocks, no burning oil or coolant and seems to have been well maintained.
My newest theory is that when starting the hot starter or battery cable is causing such a draw/resistance that it deprives the ignition of enough electricity. As engine cranks with non functioning ignition excess fuel accumulates semi-flooding out the engine, which is why the engine when it does decide to run it doesnt run strong and rough untill you hold the throttle open for a while then its fine. But I have a hard time believing this could cause it as I would think I would notice a slower cranking starter or other electrical signs. I would do some more diagnosis but I really won't be near the car 'til next weekend but wanted to get any ideas.
This car runs well, it has 93,000 miles and I don't think its ever been opened up. It idles smoothly, no knocks, no burning oil or coolant and seems to have been well maintained.
My newest theory is that when starting the hot starter or battery cable is causing such a draw/resistance that it deprives the ignition of enough electricity. As engine cranks with non functioning ignition excess fuel accumulates semi-flooding out the engine, which is why the engine when it does decide to run it doesnt run strong and rough untill you hold the throttle open for a while then its fine. But I have a hard time believing this could cause it as I would think I would notice a slower cranking starter or other electrical signs. I would do some more diagnosis but I really won't be near the car 'til next weekend but wanted to get any ideas.
