what carbs should i use for a 3x1 intake.

Well the drivetrain in my car is from a '70 Maverick with a 200 and a C4. It has a cable throttle and kickdown linkage from the Maverick swapped onto it as well. The kickdown I have is meant for the cable throttle and I don't see how my throttle cable or my kickdown rod could be used if the throttle linkage is moved to the side the way it is in the pics I have seen so far. :bang: [/quote]
 
Some observations "from the field" :

The '61 has a radical built 250 with an Offy 3X1 bbl adapter. On initial startup-cam/run-in (272 Cam) , I blocked the outer flanges and used a YF 1BBl. After initial road tests, added a 2BBl adapter to the center port and tried the H/W 5200 and then the 350CFM 7448 Holley 2300 series . Finally spent a long time getting three working vintage Holley 1904/s to run well on the Offy 3X1 setup.

> THe YF was a good known runner and fine for static fast idle run-in.

> Once on the road, the known good 5200 was smooth but not performance responsive.

> The 350 CFM was great on the temp' 2BBL adapter and delivered reponsive throttle from idle to WOT. I have a 500 CFM version I'd like to try.

> The Holley 1904's 3X1 setup is rougher at idle, not as responsive since it's running on the center carb until the progressive linkage flips open the outer carbs at a setting YOU get to F$%k with... .


The small progressive carb 3X1 setup is mediocre until RPM/vacuum climbs and the outer ports/carbs can be useful - then quickly it uses the close runners to the valves more efficient fuel delivery to meet or pass the 1X2 bbl setup. The 250 is thirsty and can use the higher CFM at mid to upper RPM with the 272 cam. The heavy pedal performance of the 3X1 and the 2300 is probably similar.

... sure making my decisions complicated...

Powerband



1904S_1908RUNSGREAT_COMETCUFRT_WEB.jpg


COMET1909sAND7448CARBS.jpg
















ENGINERADFROMFRTRT.jpg
 
The Holley 1904's 3X1 setup is rougher at idle, not as responsive since it's running on the center carb until the progressive linkage flips open the outer carbs at a setting YOU get to F$%k with... .
Click to expand...

I get the same results only it's fairly responsive because I'm running a Holley 1960 instead of smaller 1904s. Surely not as responsive as a two barrel. I may replace the outer 1904s with 1960s to feed my "thirsty" 250.

Did you win those Webers? Rebuilding them shouldn't be that difficult. Special tools? compressed air and a can of cleaning solution to soak the carbs in.

Good luck and keep us posted!
 
no i didnt win them. they were gettin to be almost as expensive as the rebuilt ones, so i decided to get the rebuilt ones and not worry about rebuilding them myself. that way i can just bolt it on. im going to use the 1100 for a while, when im breaking in the motor.
 
Bort62":24oy16ft said:
Have fun w/ the welding ;)
Click to expand...
found a shop to do it for me, he said to give him a week or 2 because his welder broke.


how hard would it be to adapt the offy linkage, or should i just make my own?
 
The linkage from the Offy swing off a stud bolted the manifold. Check out vintagespeed.com that I listed above maybe it'll give you ideas on how to fabricate something.
 
 
Patrick66, Those are some really nice pictures; thanks for sharing those with all of us. I hope everything goes well on this project. I have a question if you don't mind that is unrelated to the work that you are doing right now, and maybe while you have things apart you, or someone else, can answer for me. Here goes: I noticed that in your 2nd photo of the carb spacer, that there is a small indent/cavity area on top of the carb spacer. I recently hooked up my vac gauge directly to the carb (SCV type carb & LOA dizzy) and am not getting any vac even at high RPM's! My engine (200) was recently installed and I am now wondering if my problem with no vac is due to an improper gasket that sits between the carb spacer and the carb! Can you tell me if your gasket (that goes between the carb spacer & the carb has an opening that allows for vacuum up into the carb?? I am thinking that maybe the gasket that I installed is blocking, or not allowing the vac into the carb. Thanks, for your input! Jim
 
my gaskets covered it and they dont have openings that leave room for it, but i dont think that is your problem. its a lot more likely that the gasket is not sealing and lets air in beneath the carb or that your gauge is broken. maybe somebody else can help you more, you should make a thread so that everyone will see it.
 
Patrick66, I was just getting ready to post back that I was able to answer my own question as far as the carb gasket goes. I looked at an old carb spacer and a carb that I own, and realize now that a regular flat gasket does not block, or keep the vacuum from entering the bottom flange of the carb. I hope I am making sense here; but it is clear to me after looking at the carb spacer up close that the problem is not with an improper gasket. I believe the problem is either blocked passages, or a bad SCV!? Thanks, Jim
 
are you not getting any vacuum to the distributor? is the car running very badly?

if i were you i would check every fitting and use some teflon tape if you need to to make sure everything is sealed up. check the vac line to the dist, and make sure everything is tight. then if it isn't fixed replace the gaskets and use a little sealant.
 
Patrick66, I am not getting any vacuum either at idle (which is supposedly normal for my the set-up), nor am I getting any vacuum at higher RPM's (over 2,000). The vacuum gauge is fairly new, and I am pretty sure that the gauge is not the problem since I can suck on the end of the guage and get a good reading. I have hooked up directly to the vacuum port on the side of my carb with a short piece of "new" rubber hose & gauge and get no vacuum. So if I am not drawing any vac at the carb, I sure am not going to be advancing the distributor. I guess that a vacuum leak @ the carb is a possibility, but I was pretty careful when installing new gaskets between the intake manifold, the carb spacer, and the carb. The funny thing about all of this, is that my engine seems to be running quite well. I really don't jump on the accelertator that much to see if it is sluggish, stutters, or hesitates; but just normal driving seems fine. No problems. It just has me baffled why I don't have any vacuum reading. Maybe I am worrying about nothing, but I sure would like an explanation as to why "no" vacuum! Thanks, Jim
 
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