what to do about porting 3&4 port runners
- Thread starter matt1967
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Anonymous
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Just get the divider and be done with it.
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Anonymous
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I wonder if its main benefit would be to keep some heat off of the lower side of the intake.
mach1 mark
Well-known member
Does Mike make headers for the assiue head and the gasket to fit, without a port divider being installed.
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Anonymous
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Hmmmmmm, interesting.
I didn't have a divider welded in when they did the build on the 250, it was an after thought. So I pretty much thought I'd be stuck using the stock exhaust manifold until I removed the head to have that thing welded in. Or I even kicked around the idea of welding something to the header that went inside the manifold like mentioned above.
So I guess the question is "how much can or will be gained by dividing the port?"
and is it really necessasary if you are putting on headers?
This is purrrrfict timing for this topic.
I didn't have a divider welded in when they did the build on the 250, it was an after thought. So I pretty much thought I'd be stuck using the stock exhaust manifold until I removed the head to have that thing welded in. Or I even kicked around the idea of welding something to the header that went inside the manifold like mentioned above.
So I guess the question is "how much can or will be gained by dividing the port?"
and is it really necessasary if you are putting on headers?
This is purrrrfict timing for this topic.
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Anonymous
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Slickmofo":cr2ik9lt said:
Might help keep gaskets alive longer
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Anonymous
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Linc's 200":g0jf3qob said:
But to remove the head, remove the 2 valves, have the part welded in and machined flat, put the head back on and botton up the whole top end.
My guess; 6-8 hours labor and a good 100 bucks at the machine shop.
Are the header flanges not fitted properly over these ports?
today, I was porting my head, just finishing up, been coming along nicely until I cut through 1 exhaust runner, and noticed another was almost all the way thru, and with a little poking, it was thru. so I can ither have it welded or buy a diffrent head, so I called around and found a place that might have 1. I asked for a '78 Head which would be better flowing, and have hardened seats arleady, so I wouldn't need that done to the head, like I would this 1.
matt1967,
Keep improving your skills with the grinder on that '68 head but it is truly a dog (lose it). The '78 head is alot better flowing, the '80 might be a touch better... but not worth hunting for.
Don't get carried away with this hogging out the ports crap. It isn't necessary and may even hurt. Just narrow the guides, careful bowl work, competition valve job. Mike has some nice stainless steel proflow valves (1 3/4" intake and larger, 1 1/2" exhaust valves - they have a narrower stem for better flow).
You can unshroud the valves like Fast '64 Ranchero did. He has pics on one of his posts. Be careful and not go wider than the cylinder.
As far as the port divider deal, it has more of a benefit on a turbocharged log because it acts as an insulator. With the extra power the turbo will provide it will be like having a huge blow torch heating up your intake manifold. That's why Ford designed it exactly the way it is. Your exhaust will also be hotter and denser because of back pressure. You don't want it heating up your intake air causing power loss and detonation. You may not notice it with a quick hit of the throttle but stay on it for a full 1/4 mile and the heat will catch up with it.
The trick to installing a port divider is carefully grinding it to fit exact and protrudes ever so slightly and just tack weld it top and bottom where it's vertical - you don't want it welded everywhere, you want separation for less heat transfer.
Keep improving your skills with the grinder on that '68 head but it is truly a dog (lose it). The '78 head is alot better flowing, the '80 might be a touch better... but not worth hunting for.
Don't get carried away with this hogging out the ports crap. It isn't necessary and may even hurt. Just narrow the guides, careful bowl work, competition valve job. Mike has some nice stainless steel proflow valves (1 3/4" intake and larger, 1 1/2" exhaust valves - they have a narrower stem for better flow).
You can unshroud the valves like Fast '64 Ranchero did. He has pics on one of his posts. Be careful and not go wider than the cylinder.
As far as the port divider deal, it has more of a benefit on a turbocharged log because it acts as an insulator. With the extra power the turbo will provide it will be like having a huge blow torch heating up your intake manifold. That's why Ford designed it exactly the way it is. Your exhaust will also be hotter and denser because of back pressure. You don't want it heating up your intake air causing power loss and detonation. You may not notice it with a quick hit of the throttle but stay on it for a full 1/4 mile and the heat will catch up with it.
The trick to installing a port divider is carefully grinding it to fit exact and protrudes ever so slightly and just tack weld it top and bottom where it's vertical - you don't want it welded everywhere, you want separation for less heat transfer.
A
Anonymous
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matt1967 said:
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