Just like the topic says, What is your favorite assembly and break in lube for the various areas in the 200's? Whats your favorite for sealers? Whats your favorite for the head bolts and which ones use sealer?
Whats your favorite assembly and or break in lube?
- Thread starter fordconvert
- Start date
Moly grease for most bolts - applied to threads and underside of bolt head, Permatex #3J for the sealant issues (front head bolt, flywheel bolts).
Blue Hylomar for fibrous water system gaskets. Anti-Seize for exhaust bolts. Royal Purple or Penrite cam break-in/engine assembly lube.
Cheers, Adam.
Blue Hylomar for fibrous water system gaskets. Anti-Seize for exhaust bolts. Royal Purple or Penrite cam break-in/engine assembly lube.
Cheers, Adam.
Sealer on flywheel bolts? Is that because they go through the crank and into the crankcase?
Flywheel bolts go thru the crank on 200/250 engines. Seal 'em up.
I have an auto so I assume its less critical for me but I will put a bit on there just to be sure.
The 66 manual said to put sealer on 1 & 6 head bolts which are on the intake side. bolt 1 is between 3 & 4 cyls and bolt 6 is between 2 & 3. I assume on some blocks these must go into the water jacket? When I cleaned the threads they were all blind holes except the intake side on the front so that was the only one I used sealer on.
The 66 manual said to put sealer on 1 & 6 head bolts which are on the intake side. bolt 1 is between 3 & 4 cyls and bolt 6 is between 2 & 3. I assume on some blocks these must go into the water jacket? When I cleaned the threads they were all blind holes except the intake side on the front so that was the only one I used sealer on.
I used the molly grease on the underside of the bolt heads and threads (except the threads on that front one). They seemed to touque nice and smooth. I did the 3 step method and sequence that was in the 66 manual. Hopefully it will be back in and running this weekend!
For an assembley lube I`ve always used gobs STP(R),and never had a problem.Leo
Covers are still off so I can easily check the torque one more time.
A
Anonymous
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Permatex ultra copper for exhaust
Permatex ultra black for all other gaskets
Permatex liquid teflon thread sealant for bolts and fittings that go into water/oil (NO TEFLON TAPE!!!!!)
Do not use synthetic oil on threads, you can over-torque (stretch) bolts.
Permatex ultra black for all other gaskets
Permatex liquid teflon thread sealant for bolts and fittings that go into water/oil (NO TEFLON TAPE!!!!!)
Do not use synthetic oil on threads, you can over-torque (stretch) bolts.
A
Anonymous
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addo":252f8wjn said:
No TSB.
That info came from the "Mustang Performance Handbook"
by William R. Mathis, page 45
Quote:
"Never use synthetic oil or anti-seize compound. I once mistakenly coated a new set of high-grade head bolts with synthetic oil before torquing them. At the 60 ft. lbs. setting, the bolts began to stretch, destroying them. The synthetic oil is just too slick and will generate torque readings that are inconsistent with published values. Standard 30 wt motor oil will do just fine."
End quote
It would have to be an incident on the edge, but modern fasteners are all torqued "right up to the edge". All new manufactured engines in the last 20 years are using "torque to yield" bolts, and are pulled right up to the point before they suffer permanent stretch. That is why it is so important to follow the instructions, verbatim.
ARP offers two different torque values depending on the lube you are using. If you mix up the lube or get the values switched, you could cause a bit more damage than an overly crushed gasket.
Lazy JW":252f8wjn said:
Well, having said all that, it's not entirely impossible.
Linc's 200":axzwub9p said:
There is of course, a large difference between lubed threads NON-lubed threads. This is well known and documented; it also makes sense.
For there to be a significant difference in bolt-torque (stretch) between synthetic oil lubed threads and NON-synthetic oil lubed threads there would have to be an equally significant difference in lubricity. Sadly, there is NOT.
If there were a significant difference in lubricity between synthetic and conventional motor oils, EVERY American car manufacturer would REQUIRE the use of synthetic oil to increase fuel economy and thereby win points with the Feds. Sadly, there is not enough difference to matter.
There is, however, a difference in GRADES. Note the increasing used of 5w-20 oil, also 0w-20.
Synthetics do help a whole bunch in REALLY COLD weather (which is what they were mostly developed for). Most of us don't torque many bolts at 40º below zero.
I'm too cheap to put expensive synthetic oil in my squirt can though
Joe
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