Wheres My Gusto In My New 250?

[Guest]

Well, I think, at least its a 250. The water pump says 4 bolts. Its in my 81 Fairmont, with 120K on it. Its got a 3 speed (C3?) and it seems to be even lower than a 273 (knowing fords gearing, as well as the C3)

I think I can go up to 50 in first. What a dog. Still purrs like a kitten. Just no perfomance.

I wish it had a C4 with about a 3.55 in the back. I think shed haul then.

Looks like a large rear end. Anyone know what the 81 Fairmont Futura with a 250 had in the back, as far as size?

 

[xctasy]

250's were never standard in Fox bodies, mainly becasue they would handle worse than any 302 because the centre of gravity is so tall. The 250 was an old x-shell Granada engine until October 1980.

What you gotta do to confirm it is:-



1.Measure from the top of the sump to the botom of the head gasket with a tape, steel rule, or piece of wire. If its more than 9.4 inches, its a 4.1/250. Dip stick mounting was in the front of the engine, while the Fox 3.3's had a rear mounted dip stick, behind the fuel pump.


2. There was never a Fox 250 sump, so if its a non standard engine, it'll certainly have a non standard fabricated sump too, and a non matching engine number to the VIN.

3.If its a 250, it'll have a low mount starter.

Some 1981 'Monties got a high mount starter which caresed the cast iron header, while the later big bells looked very much like 250's, with a similar low mount starter.

4. If I recall, a 250 should have the Carter carb, not the later Holley 1946.

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah, what execute said. We are all pretty sure you don't have a 250.


I think the 1982 big bell 200 in my mustang has four bolts water pump, I'll check when I get home from work tonight.

 

[Anonymous]

And get some pics up!!!

 

[Guest]

Heres some pics of the engine. Im starting to think its a 200, but you guys are the pros.

I paid $65 for this camera. Not too bad, sux with close-ups.

 

[Does10s]

Looks like a 200 to me! The distributor cap is a lot higher in reference to the head (deck height) then our 250. Meaning the deck height on your motor is shorter.
Will

 

[Anonymous]

Yes, that is a 200.

Looks like a carb from a 300 truck engine.

 

[simon]

Yup... a fully tricked 200 judging by pump and height...

and look at those funny smog gizmos...! Dude its really LOADED with vacuum controls... That´ll give me sweet dreams tonite...


wanna keep all that stuff functional?

 

[Guest]

What carb is that, anyone?

 

[Anonymous]

What carb is that, anyone?

YOU MISSED THIS?

Looks like a carb from a 300 truck engine.

 

[Guest]

I dunno...is that a good thing?

 

[Anonymous]

I dunno...is that a good thing?

Sure it is....the 300 truck carb flows a bit better than the other carbs found on 200's and 250's.

Cocerning the title of your thread, when you say "NEW", you just mean new to you, right?

If you are lacking power, you need to do a compression check to see what kind of condition the engine is in.

Does it smoke or use oil?
What is your gas mileage like?


The car looks nice from the outside.....I see you have the kind of exhaust manifold with the large "pre-heat" cat converter inside that "can" bolted directly to the manifold. These VERY commonly come apart or melt down inside, hurting power a lot.

 

[MustangSix]

That's a 200. I'm not sure which bolts you are counting, but the 250 pump also has a distinctive shape, different than the one you posted. Even so, the others have also identified the short deck 200 block by noting the position of the distributor.

Anyway, let's wake that sucker up! OK, all this applies only if the car is emission exempt. You can't legally do any of this if you have to meet emission requirements. Take heed so that you don't run into any problems at the inspection station.

First thing, take a look at the exhaust and see if you have one of those hellish thermal reactors on the manifold. Remove it, gut it, and put it back on. If there are any other catalysts, to the same. NONE of the late 70's cars I've encountered have had a working original reactor. All of them have been melted down and crumbling inside, severely restricting the exhaust.

Next, pull all those vacuum lines. With the carb you have, you no longer need them. Just keep whatever is necessary to run your vacuum accessories like the heater controls, power brakes, and the transmission. Remove the EGR if you don't need it and block it off.

Set the timing for 12-14 degrees BTDC. That should help a little. Then later, if you can, pop for a head set and pull the head and have it milled about .060-.070" to bump the CR. Maybe get some new lifters while you're at it. If you can swap the timing set, do that too. The later cars had retarded cam timing to help NOX emissions.

One other thing, since this looks like it might have had a carb swap. have someone push the pedal to the floof and check to see if the throttle opens all the way. You'd be surprised how often I see this.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, most of those vacuum lines are from a/c lines, though a few are for other things. I got er runing tight, low idle. Stutters a bit on one unknown cylinder very occasionally, surges slightly occasionally. I got er down to 700 rpm steady at idle.

The first things to do, In order

Change plugs/wires

Set timing, dont hear detonation yet.

figure out a few seemingly important vacuum lines.

Plug off the a/c vacuum lines, seemingly purposeless (disconnected a/c)

Do usual compression test per cyl.

Temporarilly yoink the exh manifold and check for debris, clear out (maybe sandblast and paint too)

Put it back on after whatever I end up doing to it

No milling yet. My father has a milling machine (Ive used it alot as a youngin), no purpose till I crank a head gasket.

ID the carb, has motorcraft tin tags on it. More info (#s) tomorrow.

Seems to open full throttle, check that too.

Must have a C3 with a 2.73 gear (much better on highway than old Merkur XR4TI w/ C3 and 3.55) The problem with this is, its a dog out of the hole.


It has power, just the gearing is for highway, and it is a 3 spd auto, so its got to have a 2.73 or lower in the 2's. Essentially, the gears are spread out more, and the rear ratio compensates for that too. If it had a C4 or AOD, it would have at least a 3.08, up to 4.11 and still get the highway speeds without high rpm's

Got a T5 lying around...anybody wanna help on a project?

Anyways, thanks for the help so far.

 

[Anonymous]

The trans you have is a C5. Same as a C4 but with a lockup converter
(which is also very tight when not locked up)

 

[Guest]

Uh, is that a good trans?

 

[Anonymous]

Uh, is that a good trans?

It is a GREAT trans for race transmissions. Everything from the "pump back" is a C4 except for the valve body. It has better oiling, better clutch packs, etc than a C4......

But the lock-up torque converter is GREAT for mileage, bad for performance. if you want a daily driver, you have a good one- leave it alone.

If you want more performance in the 1/4 mile, the converter is way too tight. It is the problem I have with mine right now. You can't swap in a C4 converter because the bell housing is longer for the lockup converter. Also, the valve body is different for the lock up converter function.

 

[Anonymous]

Hmmmm.....wait.
Your car is an '81?

The C5 didn't come out until '82.

 

[addo]

Jatco?

 

[Guest]

I found out by the forest green paint job on the block, pan that its a Jasper rebuild. My dad IDed it, and father knows best. He been building motors for 45 years, race ones at dat.

So its got a rebuild, thats for sure. as far as the trans, I think you IDed it, Lincs, as a C5. The guy who sold it to me told me it was a C3.

Now me confused. I had said earlier that I thought it was a C3 with some wicked 2.73 or lower rear.

What size rear does that thing have?

Borrowed my dads professional buffer. Maybe monday, buff the both of em. Comon over anyone and Ill buff your car for free! This is a circa 1959 but new, large pro buffer.

Tired, drove 6 hours round trip in the Fairmont, baled hay, argued with pops/talked with pops. Must get sleep, and all day tomorrow as well. Cant breathe. Dust/polland.