Which block to use

[Vin Man]

The engine in my 67 Mustang has the following identification on the block:
C6DE
6015-B

According to one of the posts I found here (such a helpful site!), http://www.fordsix.com/tech/misc/casting_numbers.php

It is a 200 (I knew that) with a 6 bolt bell housing (knew that too!)

I have in the back yard, a core that has the following cast numbers:
C5DE
6015-H
This is the same engine, except it has a 4 bolt bell housing.

My engine project plan had me taking this core to the exchange shop and exchanging the short block for a rebuilt one. However, the exchange shop doesn't have an exchange, and will instead, just rebuild the core.

Other than the number of bolts for the bell housing, anyone have any concerns with me using the older motor for the rubuild as opposed to the one currently in the car?

I liked the idea of building a new motor on a stand while I still had the original motor in the car to use for a reference. Other than that, no real benefit that I know of.

What do you think?

 

[sp_alloy_head]

The bellhousing, if you're using a manual transmission, may not work with the older block. Otherwise it's all good.

 

[Vin Man]

I am using a C4 automatic trans. Thanks.

 

[Vin Man]

Ok. I spent about an hour tonight disassembling the 65 200 that I've had sitting in the back yard, outside, not covered for the last 5 years. I bought it from a guy back then who had pulled it from a car that had not run in at least 5 years. Needless to say, its a mess.

However, it was a complete engine. I had originally planned to just use it as my core exchange at the engine rebuilders. They usually have short blocks ready, and you just drop off a core and grab a new short block. However, they don't have any 200s in right now and want to redo mine for the same price as they would normally do an exchange.

How do I know if this engine short block is any good? I removed the head/intak (won't be using it at all as I have an Aussie head I will be installing), removed the oil pan, oil pump, fuel pump, timing chain cover, and balancer. Its ready to go to the shop.

But I'm concerned that it has sat for so long. Does the cleaning and machining process really get everything back to original or better condition?

 

[wallaka]

Yep. The machine shop can Magnaflux it to check for anything wrong, it's a fairly cheap procedure and is a good idea. Just to be sure. The shop will hot tank it to remove corrosion and sludge, then install new bearings--that's back to stock as far as I am concerned.

 

[Vin Man]

Yep. The machine shop can Magnaflux it to check for anything wrong, it's a fairly cheap procedure and is a good idea. Just to be sure. The shop will hot tank it to remove corrosion and sludge, then install new bearings--that's back to stock as far as I am concerned.

Excellent!
Then the only thing that I'm giving up by using this engine block is going from a 6 bolt bell housing to a 4 bolt. I can live with that. And keep driving the car while I'm building the new engine!

 

[Bort62]

Are you certain it is a 200 and not a 170?

The early bell is generally regarded as less desirable, but if you are going w/ a C4 I guess it's not really an issue.

 

[Vin Man]

Are you certain it is a 200 and not a 170?

The early bell is generally regarded as less desirable, but if you are going w/ a C4 I guess it's not really an issue.

The cast numbers on the block are C5DE and 6015-H. According to another thread I found here on this forum, it is a 200. http://www.fordsix.com/tech/misc/casting_numbers.php

Other than that, I'm not sure. Should I count the number of freeze plugs?
I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them.

 

[Mercury Mike]

Vin, you tore the block open, how many main bearings?

 

[Vin Man]

I have no idea how many main bearings.
What do they look like?

I'm a bolt it together guy. I don't understand how they work. I would never attempt to assemble a short block or put together a head. I can bolt the two together and torque them down though!

If you tell me what to look for, I'll go out tomorrow morning, count them and take pics. Sorry.

 

[Mercury Mike]

When you pull the pan, look on the bottom. There's going to be caps that have a bolt on each side, holding the crankshaft in place. If there's 7 of them, it's a 200. =)

 

[Eric Rose]

Some of the early 200's were 4 main bearing blocks. And one with the early bellhousing pattern is probably a 4 main. The early blocks also have the smaller hole for the distributor.

You really want a 7-main block for the added durability and the right hole to mount a Duraspark distributor. The only downside of the 7 main block is that the set of main bearings costs twice as much

 

[wallaka]

They didn't make any 4-main bearing 200s in 1966. They stopped that in 1964. My C5 block is seven main, four-bolt bellhousing with hydraulic lifters and adjustable rocker arms.

Anyhow, check for seven main bearings, and count the freeze plugs below the exhaust manifold. Five freeze plugs=200, three=170.

 

[Vin Man]

Here is a picture. If I understand it correctly, looks like 7 main bearings.

Five freeze plugs as well.

 

[mysavioreigns]

Yessiree, that's a 200.

 

[Mercury Mike]

=) Problem solved.

 

[MustangSix]

One last thing to check is for accessory bosses. In addition to the bellhousing pattern, the blocks changed several times to allow Ford to add power steering, AC, air pumps, etc. A C5DE block may not have all the same accessory mounting points as a C6DE block.