Yella Terra Rocker Set

[bigcatchdaniel555]

I feel kinda stupid asking this many questions but here another one goes. I was on classic inlines (my wallet getslighter every time i look there) and I found the yella terra roller rocker set. Ive read they add 10-15hp while giving smoother driveability and engine life is any of this true or BS. The reason I loked at the rockers is because what i see i can use a STOCK CAM until I'm ready to upgrade and its a simple drop in upgrade after taking off the head and putting new lifters. Also how many times a year do they need to be adjusted is it like a once a month thing. I appreciate you all's help with the cam but i think I'll hold off on that because I'm planning a build next year but I would like to start the roller set soon.
Thanks I appreciate your help.Y

 

[addo]

You'll find this attracts comments both ways...

I've installed them onto a GM six. Smoother idle (for sure), possible better consumption and lower operating temps (these are a bit subjective).

Note that you need to change the lifters and pushrods - so the head has to come off...

There are regular problems with excess discharge of oil through the pushrod tips, meaning you may need to slightly block the pushrods' oil holes. A baffled rocker cover including the PCV pick-up area is a "must". Otherwise it will suck too much oil spray into the manifold.

Also there exist some significant conditions (requirements) for bedding in; if you get what Yella Terra refer to as "metal transfer" where one part wears another down, then failure in service can be expected. I mean, if you run them with inadequate oiling they will be ruined.

Regards, Adam.

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

Thanks Adam,
Do i need to add a high flow oil pump it has a 5/16 one in there thats about a year old and burrys the pressure gauge when running.
Pulling the head is no big deal how are the rollers working on that GM do they need adjusting a lot also did you notice any difference in hp driveability is nice and pleasurable but HP is fun .

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

One more thing I assumed but you know what they say when you assume that i could use the stock springs as well as cam and i also know that roller rockers with the 1.6 give a little higher lift will that cause piston clearance problems the head atleast not to my knowledge has ever been milled but even if it had woud i have a problem?

 

[wsa111]

Daniel, the yella-terra rockers are a full roller deal.

The oiling is from the oil through lifters which are .150 longer than the stock hydraulic lifters. Thus you also need the oil through pushrods which come with the kit.

Once you adjust them they should stay in adjustment for some time.

Do not use a high volume oil pump, not needed & will wipe out the distributor gear.

When you are ready to install the classic inlines 274 camshaft that is the time to use the oil through lifters & the yella-terra full roller rocker arms.

The idle might be slightly rougher, because you are using rocker arms with a 1.65 vs a 1.5 ratio. This will up your duration @ .050, but the gain is well worth it.

I run the 1.65 full roller rockers on my engine & the performance gain can be felt over the 1.6 roller tip rockers.

Now pay attention::::: you can install the camshaft of your choice using the .150" longer small block lifters & purchase a special puchrod from Mike or from clay smith which is a non oil through pushrod but is .150" shorter than the pushrod that you use on the adjustable 1.5-1.6 or the 1.6 roller tip rocker arms which all use the rocker shaft for oiling.

I have used that special pushrod non-oiling with the oil through lifters with no problems.

Then when you want to go with the best of the best that being the yella-terra 1.65 full roller rocker arms, all you need to do is install the rockers along with the special oil through pushrods & not have to worry about a camshaft & lifter change.

Mike @ classic inclines says he several sets of these special pushrods.

If you need the clay smith special part # let me know or contact Mike.

More lift & power to you, Bill

BY THE WAY THIS IS FOR A 200" ENGINE THE 250" ENGINE WILL NEED A PUSHROD OF A DIFFERENT LENGTH.

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

Thanks a lot Bill,
I appreciate your input on the cam forum as well. Right now I have done all of the cheap and economical upgrades to my 200 like a 2bbl rochester 2jet 2 1/4 with a flowmaster 40 exhaust and duraspark II ignition. The head and bottom end are stock like i said pulling the head isnt really a prob my friend and I can do that and my neighbor has a spring compressor so I can do the full roller set. However I cant swing a full motor pull out and tear down being its only a year old as it is the rebuild may come in the winter. I do however want to add this roller set now I just wasnt sure if when i installed it I wont feel anything I realize that it wouldnt be as benficial with a cam and head milling package I'm just not ready to tear it all down yet and open up the wallet. The lifters are still a little pricey but from what ive read they will yield something even in stock form especially over the stock assembly. $500 doesnt get a lot in the world of inlines anyway especially with all the cheap mods ive done.


also since the lift will be increased by.05 which is fine as far as clearence from what ive read but what about valve spring float will the lift and the ne 1.65 rockers make the springs float.[/quote]

 

[Bort62]

Well -

Upgrading the cam will cost less, be about equal work, and yield more power gain than the roller rockers.

So why would you do the roller rockers again? I mean - I realize they look cool and all but...

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

maybe i will try the cam first but the lifting the whole engine out egain scraes me a little. maybe i can just do both at the smae time. if anyone has any more input about the roicker or either way its appreciated.

 

[falcon fanatic]

Why do you need to lift the whole engine out? Can you just yank the radiator and do the cam swap through the front?


As for the full roller rockers, I have them with a stock cam and they are certainly nice, as far as I can tell. I also did a heavy amount of headwork at the same time, so it's hard to know how much is headwork and how much is rockers. Whatever, I'm making way more power. I will say this, however: with the stock cam you can forget about making any power over 4500 rpm.

That's fine in my case for now, because my engine is a clatterfest at those revs, anyhow. I think I need a meticulously balanced rebuild to rev any higher anyhow. When that happens, I'll add a cam, too.

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

i have 66 stang and the cam cant bu pulled because the opening even after the grill is disassembled is only 10 inches. the timing cover is about 14 inches down so i can pull the cam. also what kind of headwork did you have done and what difference can you feel as far as the rockers and whole upgrade.

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

disregard the last post it turns out that after some remeasuring i can yank the radiator to do the cam swap i have also learned that my uncle has a cam degree tool. that was the main downfall for not using the can swap now that i can i would like to do it one questionstill remains the car has a c4 and a/c no power assists what is a better cam for hp would it be the 264/274 with a 112 or a 264/264 with a 112 is there much differnce in sound and off line torque which is what i'm after i dont really take it above 5k in fact ive never even had it past 3500 so 5k is my max. would the 264/274 require head milling if so how much.

 

[addo]

The comments about milling your head are generalisations.

Two things you want to achieve are:

A smooth sealing surface for the exhaust manifold, and
A static compression ratio in the recommended zone.

The cam grind will have a recommended ratio for the compression. Not a statement of how much to mill off. You may find that a 20 thou cut is required; then again it could be 70 thou...

The motor will run with no changes to compression ratio, however it will be thirsty and somewhat under-optimised.

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

i checked with a local machine shop and its about 75 bucks for a mill job which cam is better ive read the dual pattern maybe better because i dont have a header just a larger exhaust pipe and muffler but are the 264 and 264/274 good cams for low power even when they arent degreed which one gives a better sounding idle but wont kill my mileage is it just a question of self preference?

 

[addo]

I would personally choose the slightly larger, dual pattern cam. The standard exhaust system is pretty constricted and this will influence your idle to an extent. A lot of mileage can be influenced by how you drive, so much as how the motor's built.

For US prices, $75 sounds high if they're just cutting on a bare head you supply. If, for that money, they are removing and refitting the valves/springs etc and cleaning up the swarf then it's fair enough pricing.

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

one more thing what a good c/r for the dual pattern 264/274 also how do you convert the cc of the combustion chamber to a cr ratio.