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My 200 Project

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StarDiero75
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My 200 Project

Post #1 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 1:59 pm

Howdy guys,

So after 6 days, it finally runs! It took awhile but she runs! I got the cam broken in and took it for a drive. Prob is that I have no exhaust for it currently so it's running open headers. I have an appointment on monday to get flowmaster 40s put on and 2" pipe installed.

Couple of things, the carb floods when I turn the car off, I'm assuming the seat isn't sealed properly so I'll check that b/c I've adjusted the float downwards several times now and that doesn't fix it.

Next, Bill recommends I run 16-18 degrees of timing. My timing marks on the block only go to 12. Do I do this with a fancy timing light or do I need to extend the timing marks on the cover?

Funny thing, so i got a C9 composite head gasket from Ford. Its a NOS piece. In the handbook it says it should measure .037, mine measured .045. The real kicker was after I tightened it, it wouldn't compress. I pulled the head to measure the crush and it was still .045. I even had my machine shop check it. He ordered me the Fel-pro one from the handbook and that measured to be .051 before installation. As long as it crushes to .05ish thats ok.

Here's a video for you all to see. It did not actually fire up that quickly. It cranked over for a bit b/c the timing was so retarded when I installed it.
https://youtu.be/jgChMVp5rps

Thank you all for your advice and thank you Bill for the DUI.

Thanks Everyone,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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chad
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200 Break-In

Post #2 by chad » Sun Mar 22, 2020 2:15 pm

2K, 20 min = break in.
Did I C ur pipes get red hot? Timing
Too advanced?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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StarDiero75
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Re: 200 Break-In

Post #3 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 2:57 pm

chad wrote:2K, 20 min = break in.
Did I C ur pipes get red hot? Timing
Too advanced?

Base Timing was retarded. I fixed that after the break in. I hope overall timing isn't too advanced.
Yup, i did 2000 for 20 mins. Man i was just about deaf after that haha.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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chad
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Re: My 200 Project

Post #4 by chad » Sun Mar 22, 2020 3:25 pm

the pipes ran cherry red ? How long?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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StarDiero75
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Re: My 200 Project

Post #5 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 3:53 pm

chad wrote:the pipes ran cherry red ? How long?

Less than 20 mins, is that really bad? The car runs fine and sounds fine
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #6 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:03 pm

From what I've been reading, retarded timing makes the pipes red. The mixture was most definitely rich, i saw black smoke coming out when i reved it after break in. Between rich mixture which will burn in the pipes and retarded timing, that is what tye issue is. I've since reved it and not noticed red pipes.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #7 by bubba22349 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:27 pm

On the timing marks you could measure the diameter of the crankshaft Dampner than calculate the degrees measurement for making a couple of new timing marks at 16 degrees and your total mechanical advance timing say of 35 or 36 degrees (however Bill set it up for you) paint each Mark a different color so you know when using your timing light. Or yes you could also make new marks on the timing cover or a new bolt on pointer, your choice to which you like better. Did you put a new float in the carb or check that it's not to heavy? Sounds decent good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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StarDiero75
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Re: My 200 Project

Post #8 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:53 pm

bubba22349 wrote:On the timing marks you could measure the diameter of the crankshaft Dampner than calculate the degrees measurement for making a couple of new timing marks at 16 degrees and you total mechanical advance timing say of 35 or 36 degrees (however Bill set it up for you) paint each Mark a different color so you know when using your timing light. Or yes you could also make new marks on the timing cover or a new bolt on pointer, your choice to which you like better. Did you put a new float in the carb or check that it's not to heavy? Sounds decent good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Oh i didn't think of that, thats clever. I'll get out there with a protractor. I like the idea of marking it on the balancer. I don't feel like messing with the cover.

I did put a new float in it, its a brass one. I didn't think to measure it. It only floods though once the car is off. I'll check too that the thing that the seat sits in is tightened all the way. I have an extra float and seat in another carb that I know work, if i can't figure it out I'll use those
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #9 by mustang6 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 4:09 am

Retarded timing and running rich are a bad combo that makes those pipes run cherry red. I'll bet the chrome finish on those headers is somewhat duller now lol, but what I'm really worried about for you is the condition of the exhaust valves- imagine how hot they were inside there. Once you get things going good I'd run a quick compression or leak down test to make sure you don't have any burned or warped valves. I hope you don't and you have fixed the timing and fuel issues so you can drive it around without the pipes getting red any more.
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #10 by StarDiero75 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 12:32 pm

mustang6 wrote:Retarded timing and running rich are a bad combo that makes those pipes run cherry red. I'll bet the chrome finish on those headers is somewhat duller now lol, but what I'm really worried about for you is the condition of the exhaust valves- imagine how hot they were inside there. Once you get things going good I'd run a quick compression or leak down test to make sure you don't have any burned or warped valves. I hope you don't and you have fixed the timing and fuel issues so you can drive it around without the pipes getting red any more.

Ok I'll check today after i get the exhaust put on. i have an appointment at 1. The car atarts up spooky fast and runs pretty smoothly but I'll do a compression test. Hopefully its all ok. It drives with a lot of power so I'm hoping its all good
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #11 by vssman » Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:21 pm

The carb flooding after shutting the engine down sounds like a heat soak problem. The headers will only make it more pronounced. After you shut off the engine, look down the carb to see if you have any dripping fuel. I had the same issue on mine so I: wrapped the headers, installed thick carb gasket, installed insulated spacers between the carb studs and carb (basically a plastic tube that slides over the stud and a plastic washer). Those things solved the heat soak issues.
63 Falcon 'vert running a 68 200CID Tri carb and a few other goodies

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #12 by wsa111 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 8:26 pm

The best way to get rid of the heat soak condition is scrap your mechanical fuel pump which hold pressure on the needle & seat.
The fix is go electric & run 6-7 psi fuel pressure.
When you shut the engine off the fuel pressure goes to '0'
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6425CL & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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Re: My 200 Project

Post #13 by StarDiero75 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:47 pm

So get this, I swapped out the float to an old nitrophyl and it worked fine, no more flooding. Comparing the 2, the brass one had the bowl fill up more to go flat. The nitrophyl one sits much lower and that fixed it perfectly. I did consider an electric pump. I may go to that once summer comes and heat starts to become an issue. What electric pumps are you all using?

By the way, i got the exhaust put on, and man, does it sound mean. 2" with an H pipe and flowmaster 40s. This thing drives like a bat out of heck. It peels the tires without really trying. I'm still fine tuning it but man its fun. I'll post pictures here and a youtube link for the sound when its all done.

I also marked the balancer at 16 and 18 degrees, funny thing, i had already put it at 18 degrees by pure luck. I threw the light on and it was dead nuts on 18. I just used where I was sitting and gauged it roughly
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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My 200 Project

Post #14 by chad » Wed Mar 25, 2020 9:04 am

"...peels the tires..."
what rear gear?
U now have the T5?
14 inch tire?
(C where I'm goin?)
Some go for a few more MPGs...

Glad U got those exh temps down ! Looked dangerous~
Mentioned "carb work" & timing - what carb is it anyway?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #15 by StarDiero75 » Wed Mar 25, 2020 1:06 pm

chad wrote:"...peels the tires..."
what rear gear?
U now have the T5?
14 inch tire?
(C where I'm goin?)
Some go for a few more MPGs...

Glad U got those exh temps down ! Looked dangerous~
Mentioned "carb work" & timing - what carb is it anyway?

Hey man, I'm running a 2.8 rear gear with the T5 and 215 tires (25.9") on 14 rims. I'll be going to 17 inch rims and 225 tires with 3.25 rear gears eventually just takes money.

Its an autolite 2100 1.08. It runs hauls butt man. Amazing throttle response. Couldn't be happier with it.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Final Drive Ratio:U can play w/it on-line 1st

Post #16 by chad » Wed Mar 25, 2020 4:15 pm

here's one:
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

another for "change' (to get U back to oem):
https://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html

&
what I wuz actually lookin 4 for U:
https://www.strangeengineering.net/gear ... alculator/

your T5 hasa final output of .68 or .79 ( ' T5-Z ' is the "WC transmis").
Plug in the figures (tire, tranny, rear gear) and C if U want more power /or/ more MPGs. I like it "in the middle".
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #17 by bmbm40 » Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:08 pm

That is the kind of driving impression I enjoy reading about! You did all the right mods with head, cam, carb, exhaust and ignition and work.
Looking forward to hearing more. Congratulations.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #18 by drag-200stang » Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:54 am

X2 good job :thumbup:
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #19 by StarDiero75 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 3:35 pm

bmbm40 wrote:That is the kind of driving impression I enjoy reading about! You did all the right mods with head, cam, carb, exhaust and ignition and work.
Looking forward to hearing more. Congratulations.

Thanks man! I wanted to build the best 200 I could. I did a bunch of reading and just went for it. I'm working out the bugs right now. I may have to JB weld the EGR block off on b/c the clearance between the top of the hole and the carb mating surface is really thin. Otherwise i don't know how to seal it
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: Final Drive Ratio:U can play w/it on-line 1st

Post #20 by StarDiero75 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 3:39 pm

chad wrote:here's one:
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

another for "change' (to get U back to oem):
https://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html

&
what I wuz actually lookin 4 for U:
https://www.strangeengineering.net/gear ... alculator/

your T5 hasa final output of .68 or .79 ( ' T5-Z ' is the "WC transmis").
Plug in the figures (tire, tranny, rear gear) and C if U want more power /or/ more MPGs. I like it "in the middle".

I've played with those a lot. I have a 4.03 1st and .81 5th. Currently i have a 2.8 but i want a 3.25. It'll give me a little more and the gears wont be so long
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #21 by chad » Thu Mar 26, 2020 3:46 pm

WoW, that 'racer's' transmis is almost as good as my off rd/on rd truck transmis.& much different purposes~
Thinkin abt it I can now C Y. Hummm, unrealistic of me to imagine it'd B too different...
We'd go thru tham solwer'm quicker tho, no? :lol:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #22 by StarDiero75 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 6:20 pm

Alright guys, so i think i figured out what my rough idle is. I did a compression test and here's what i got, 1-6.

159
167
170
173
172
170

1 is much lower than the rest. My money is that i need to readjust the valves. On break in i had issues with backfiring through the carb. Its only an issue when compression breaking or idling. I'll get random super lean values. I'll back off the valves a little and report back.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #23 by StarDiero75 » Sat Mar 28, 2020 9:19 pm

Howdy guys,

So after backing off the valves for #1, the car ran much smoother and i stopped getting a random lean valve on the AFR, its pretty consistent now. Also i found out. My 2 year old NOS PCV went bad b/c it runs like complete crap when it's plugged in. So for now i have it not hooked up. Now I'm adjusting jets.

I'll take it out for a spin tomorrow to get all the data of the AFR gauge. curently the idle is at 12.5-13 and WOT is 11.5-12. I'll swap the jets and play with it then.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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My 200 Project

Post #24 by chad » Sat Mar 28, 2020 10:56 pm

"...old NOS PCV went bad ..."
hi heat smoked da oil?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #25 by Econoline » Sun Mar 29, 2020 3:01 am

PCV issue may indicate a vacuum leak somewhere.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #26 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 29, 2020 12:40 pm

Econoline wrote:PCV issue may indicate a vacuum leak somewhere.

Really? I have another one around, I'll try that. I've been spraying starter fluid all around my 2V adapter stuff and have yet to find a problem.

Currently its such a drastic change. So before i hook it up, the AFR is pretty steady around 12.5ish, car runs smooth. I hook it up, and the values chsnge to like 16+ and it idles like dirt. Does that sound more like a bad PCV or it leading me to a leak elsewhere?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #27 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 29, 2020 12:44 pm

chad wrote:"...old NOS PCV went bad ..."
hi heat smoked da oil?

Maybe. The oil looks great, i just checked it. Looks like its brand new
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #28 by Econoline » Sun Mar 29, 2020 1:23 pm

The reason being that the pcv is a designed vacuum leak, when plugging that helps it can be b/c of another leak somewhere. Or it can be a bad pcv letting too much air by under high vacuum conditions. Just something to be aware of.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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My 200 Project

Post #29 by chad » Sun Mar 29, 2020 2:58 pm

"...old NOS PCV went bad ..."
hi heat smoked da oil?
Maybe. The oil looks great, i just checked it. Looks like its brand new
= = = = = = = = = = == =
I don't know what to say. I usta do machinin and a lill 'artistry' black smithing too. We told temps by color:
cherry red (bright like those pipes)...1500* F
orange red/dull red................................1550
lght red..............................................1610
orange................ ...............................1700

important on tempering & hardening (jamb into a bucket of water or oil) and 'forge' welding. I worry as it seemed the motor was at about 2X (50% more) than it should be for 20 min. Not sure what that'll do...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #30 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 29, 2020 3:23 pm

Econoline wrote:The reason being that the pcv is a designed vacuum leak, when plugging that helps it can be b/c of another leak somewhere. Or it can be a bad pcv letting too much air by under high vacuum conditions. Just something to be aware of.

I do know its a designed vacuum leak, thats makes sense that adding another one would do that. I'll try my backup one and see what that does. Thanks for the input man
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #31 by StarDiero75 » Sun Mar 29, 2020 3:26 pm

chad wrote:"...old NOS PCV went bad ..."
hi heat smoked da oil?
Maybe. The oil looks great, i just checked it. Looks like its brand new
= = = = = = = = = = == =
I don't know what to say. I usta do machinin and a lill 'artistry' black smithing too. We told temps by color:
cherry red (bright like those pipes)...1500* F
orange red/dull red................................1550
lght red..............................................1610
orange................ ...............................1700

important on tempering & hardening (jamb into a bucket of water or oil) and 'forge' welding. I worry as it seemed the motor was at about 2X (50% more) than it should be for 20 min. Not sure what that'll do...

It mighta done nothing b/c there wasn't load or anything. plus that could mainly be from the unburnt gas burning in the pipe. The valves are all sealing good. So i don't know what else to do now. I'm just gonna finish tuning the carb and enjoy it. If something comes up, I'll tackle it then. Y'know?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #32 by Econoline » Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:20 pm

I bet it's like a different car with the 2v, t-5 and the new cam.
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Re: My 200 Project

Post #33 by StarDiero75 » Mon Mar 30, 2020 6:43 am

Econoline wrote:I bet it's like a different car with the 2v, t-5 and the new cam.

Oh my you have no idea. and the exhaust too. This this is a beast. just gotta finish tuning in the carb

Heres a video i just made

https://youtu.be/N80vdGw-WSk

Sounds pretty mean too. I'm very happy with everything so far. Next up is 3.25 gears from the 2.8. We'll see how that makes it even better.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #34 by Econoline » Mon Mar 30, 2020 6:58 am

That is looking and sounding good!
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #35 by bmbm40 » Mon Mar 30, 2020 6:25 pm

Yep it has that sound!
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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project chero

Post #36 by chad » Mon Mar 30, 2020 6:58 pm

StarDiero75 wrote:...Next up is 3.25 gears from the 2.8. We'll see how that makes it even better.

Yrs ago I saw a guy go 'all the way' w/1 of these. My Q is...

When will U address 'the rest' - Your 'handeling package".
Tires, suspension, breks? This guy hada R'nP steering may have got a package or assembled
springs, steering components, K, and so on. I forget if he put in frame stiffeners...
It was a hot lill auto cross/scca/pro solo.

Do you have plans? Have U thought of continuing in this way? How would that fit in w/the efi, the other decisions
current, 1 inch lowering, etc? /OR/ is it getting to the end? /OR/ get there as U go? (I hope not).
:thumbup:
8)
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #37 by bubba22349 » Mon Mar 30, 2020 7:26 pm

:beer: Congrats :thumbup: Ah yes that little 200 sounds sweet now. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #38 by Econoline » Tue Mar 31, 2020 12:38 am

You might consider a 3.5:1. It comes down to highway vs town. You have a bit of overdrive in 5th. What are you turning @ 60-65 now in 5th? What diameter wheel, 25.5"? @ 2.8 you're definitely at the economy end of the spectrum bordering on lugging in 5th unless you have really small tires. With 25.5" tires and a 3.5 rear end you'd be doing 2230 @ 60 vs 2750 @ 1:1 top gear(4th). For highway I think 3.25 is a smart choice though. Gives you a bit more pep around town but keeps things kosher @ 70+ cruise w/your .81 od.
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Re: My 200 Project

Post #39 by StarDiero75 » Tue Mar 31, 2020 1:20 pm

Econoline wrote:You might consider a 3.5:1. It comes down to highway vs town. You have a bit of overdrive in 5th. What are you turning @ 60-65 now in 5th? What diameter wheel, 25.5"? @ 2.8 you're definitely at the economy end of the spectrum bordering on lugging in 5th unless you have really small tires. With 25.5" tires and a 3.5 rear end you'd be doing 2230 @ 60 vs 2750 @ 1:1 top gear(4th). For highway I think 3.25 is a smart choice though. Gives you a bit more pep around town but keeps things kosher @ 70+ cruise w/your .81 od.

Really? 3.5? In my calculations I've done online, 3.25 puts me about 2300 RPM at 70. With the the 3.5 I'm at 2575ish at 70.
Currently I'm turning about 1750ish at 60 and 2000 at 70. It definitely doesn't have a lot of power on the highway. My worry is that my 1st gear starts to become a granny gear. Its got the 4.03 1st. Thats the other reason being conservative with the 3.25.

My tires are 25.9, axle is 2.8 and trans is .81 OD.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #40 by StarDiero75 » Tue Mar 31, 2020 3:37 pm

Thanks guys! I think it sounds amazing!! I love it so much. It drives like a bat outta heck and sounds like one too. I love the rumble.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #41 by Econoline » Tue Mar 31, 2020 5:13 pm

It wouldn't change first much between 3.25 and 3.5 but I agree having 4.03 1st and, more importantly, only .81 5th is somewhat limiting. Especially if you want to cruise 70 for long drives. Sounds like you've got it figured out. 3.25 will definately be a noticeable improvement over 2.8. :thumbup:
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Re: My 200 Project

Post #42 by xctasy » Tue Mar 31, 2020 8:11 pm

My advice is stay 2.83 axle till you know the 17 inch wheels are a functional thing...its hard to fit 17s on Cheros due to geometery and rear axle to gaurd clearance, so its just another unknown.

Tune the air fuel with a wide band header bung, and fit a heat shield under the carb and get the EGR hole blanked off real good. Get the ignition and hot fuel handling issues taken care of first
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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wide band O2 placement

Post #43 by chad » Tue Mar 31, 2020 8:21 pm

"...awide band header bung..."
Up that hi? Not down past the 2 collectors in the "hook ups"? ( the two 3-inta-2s).
Or as in Oz lingo put it in the "pipes" ?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #44 by 65_Stang_170 » Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:24 am

StarDiero75 wrote: By the way, i got the exhaust put on, and man, does it sound mean. 2" with an H pipe and flowmaster 40s.


Did you take it to a shop for a custom job or did you purchase a kit?

-Shawn
1965 Mustang Coupe - 170 I6, T5 Manual Transmission, Weber 32/36 Carb, Arning Drop

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #45 by StarDiero75 » Sat Apr 04, 2020 1:39 am

65_Stang_170 wrote:
StarDiero75 wrote: By the way, i got the exhaust put on, and man, does it sound mean. 2" with an H pipe and flowmaster 40s.


Did you take it to a shop for a custom job or did you purchase a kit?

-Shawn

I had it custom made at a shop. He modified the down pipes the VI headers came with and installed the O2 sensor on there for the AFR gauge. $550+tax. I didn't think that was too bad
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #46 by StarDiero75 » Sat Apr 04, 2020 1:41 am

xctasy wrote:My advice is stay 2.83 axle till you know the 17 inch wheels are a functional thing...its hard to fit 17s on Cheros due to geometery and rear axle to gaurd clearance, so its just another unknown.

Tune the air fuel with a wide band header bung, and fit a heat shield under the carb and get the EGR hole blanked off real good. Get the ignition and hot fuel handling issues taken care of first

After talking with my buddy, i may just do 15s. The 15s will look more period too.

I'll consider the heat shield, i totally never thought of that.

I'm pretty sure the EGR is blocked good. At this point, since I've sprayed a lot of starter fluid around it and never noticed a prob i think its alright.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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200 '60s Ranch' Project

Post #47 by chad » Sat Apr 04, 2020 11:57 am

"...I'll consider the heat shield..."
I'm at that right now. 1/8th sheet alu lies around the shop (more labor intensive).

Has any1 seen that 'corrugated" very thin, hand bendable alu sheets available? I
C it in large sheets under USA & Jap cars at the cat & other exhaust areas...

Thanks
:thumbup:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: My 200 Project

Post #48 by bmbm40 » Sat Apr 04, 2020 4:33 pm

Might find a good heat shield off something at picnpul that can be customized a bit for your use.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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sourcin a heat shield

Post #49 by chad » Sat Apr 04, 2020 11:44 pm

bmbm40 wrote:find a good heat shield off something at picnpul

that possibility disappeared yrs ago.

Here a junk yard is not that anymore. It is like an open air library or wearhouse. Everything stacked sorted organized catalogued & ina puter. The rows'n isles have #s/ltrs scrawled on end posts (like rd signs I guess).

Every thing 10 yrs or older, gone, crushed. U wanna a part? they deliver (from their own yrd or some1 else) or U wait ina office
for an hr. No 'walk thru the yrd' (too many pilfers/robs?, too many suits?) these daze.

My best bet is: 1) here w/the Q I asked; or 2) Y/M/M cross ref. (I got late '90s early 21st cent Subie as a guess due to what comes thru the shop here). And 3) ol stand by - after mrkt raw supply, universal fit, DIY.

Bronk bros use 1/2 - 1 inch coupling nuts'n the alu sheets I mentioned. There's a paint on product heat shield for restorers like us. If it is rust inhibitive too I might add it. I think it needs a proprietary top coat (all needs a gun and is expensive I'm sure). I need minimum I don't think the fire wall/transmis tunnel needs it but certainly the pass fl bds do. The proposed exhaust (the last CI headers Will had fit a bronk w/a lill massage - that wuz a Q many had) will B close'n short (headers, collectors, hook ups to Y, miniature muff, out either thru rocker or just infrnt of pass tire. System needs 'tucked up' for off rd. All stainless except muff as of now. That is a 12x2X4 (can it B that sm?) "free from closing/bankrupt Midas" aluminized turbo I saw hang frm the celling retail model each time I delivered prts. I wuz a Zoner for 5 yrs.

This may leave off the carb shield tho - is where I saw the 'corrugated hand malleable sheets' the OZ or Argie guy had big sheets almost like inner fenders, in a 100% racer. Wouldn't a 12 X 12 (or 18) inch sheet B nice? (Nother long screed but HTH Ryan).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: sourcin a heat shield

Post #50 by StarDiero75 » Sun Apr 05, 2020 2:48 am

chad wrote:
bmbm40 wrote:find a good heat shield off something at picnpul

that possibility disappeared yrs ago.

Here a junk yard is not that anymore. It is like an open air library or wearhouse. Everything stacked sorted organized catalogued & ina puter. The rows'n isles have #s/ltrs scrawled on end posts (like rd signs I guess).

Every thing 10 yrs or older, gone, crushed. U wanna a part? they deliver (from their own yrd or some1 else) or U wait ina office
for an hr. No 'walk thru the yrd' (too many pilfers/robs?, too many suits?) these daze.

My best bet is: 1) here w/the Q I asked; or 2) Y/M/M cross ref. (I got late '90s early 21st cent Subie as a guess due to what comes thru the shop here). And 3) ol stand by - after mrkt raw supply, universal fit, DIY.

Bronk bros use 1/2 - 1 inch coupling nuts'n the alu sheets I mentioned. There's a paint on product heat shield for restorers like us. If it is rust inhibitive too I might add it. I think it needs a proprietary top coat (all needs a gun and is expensive I'm sure). I need minimum I don't think the fire wall/transmis tunnel needs it but certainly the pass fl bds do. The proposed exhaust (the last CI headers Will had fit a bronk w/a lill massage - that wuz a Q many had) will B close'n short (headers, collectors, hook ups to Y, miniature muff, out either thru rocker or just infrnt of pass tire. System needs 'tucked up' for off rd. All stainless except muff as of now. That is a 12x2X4 (can it B that sm?) "free from closing/bankrupt Midas" aluminized turbo I saw hang frm the celling retail model each time I delivered prts. I wuz a Zoner for 5 yrs.

This may leave off the carb shield tho - is where I saw the 'corrugated hand malleable sheets' the OZ or Argie guy had big sheets almost like inner fenders, in a 100% racer. Wouldn't a 12 X 12 (or 18) inch sheet B nice? (Nother long screed but HTH Ryan).

AMEN brother. My yards are crap, they became crap. They overcharge and underdeliver.

I will look at getting some thin sheet next time im in lowes. I could make it looks nice, paint it black. Only 3 colors allowed in my engine bay, black, Ford Dark Blue, and chrome. Very minimal chrome/shiny metal. Its gaudy to me.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video

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