My Mustang Manifesto
I have a 1966 mustang convertible with an I6-200 and an automatic transmission. The car is mostly original, or I keep the parts where I change things. I want to stay with a “mostly original” look, but am not concerned about being “concourse correct”. The engine is at a point where I have decided to go ahead and rebuild it (bore out block, turn crank, rework head etc.). When I do this I want to improve the performance somewhat, but do not want to go crazy (87 octane gas). I have read thru the technical information on the Classic Inlines web site (very helpful) and wanted to see if anybody in the forum had advice regarding my general plans for added performance. I plan to drive the car on weekends an/or in good weather (50/50 city/highway). Here is what I am thinking:
1. Already have a 2V Weber 38 DGAS carburetor with a 2-1 adapter plate.
2. Plan to add a DUI distributor.
3. Bore cylinders .030” over and machine deck to get SCR/DCR correct for 87 octane gas.
4. New hydraulic camshaft and bearings – maybe the CS 264/264 or 264/274, but not 100% sure on lobe centers yet (maybe 112 with auto trans?). New hydraulic lifters.
5. Turn crank .010” and replace main/crank arm bearings.
6. Get new .030” smaller dished pistons with moly rings. (current pistons may be California 13cc dished)
7. Go with new larger valves (1.5” and 1.75”). Have hardened exhaust valve seats pressed in head (FYI - head is a small log).
8. Replace non-adjustable rocker assembly with 1.5 ratio adjustable rocker assembly (new ball and cup push rods to accommodate adjustable rockers).
9. New valve springs (302SB single springs).
10. New oil pump, timing set, motor mounts, harmonic balancer, water pump (radiator is relatively new)....
11. Headers and 2” single exhaust (may wait to do this after I get the car running).
Basically I want to try to ensure I am not making any big mistakes (losing lots of low end torque, getting a rough idle etc.). I plan to have the head work done first so I can measure the combustion chambers after machining (not sure if any unshrouding or porting will be done). Then I can determine if or how much I should have the block decked to get the CR where I want it. I plan to use a .050” composite head gasket and get all new seals. The above represents the extent of my budget for this sort of thing.
Any advice regarding these modifications would be greatly appreciated. It is one thing to read about things and another to have actually done them. Thanks for your time in reading/responding.
I have a 1966 mustang convertible with an I6-200 and an automatic transmission. The car is mostly original, or I keep the parts where I change things. I want to stay with a “mostly original” look, but am not concerned about being “concourse correct”. The engine is at a point where I have decided to go ahead and rebuild it (bore out block, turn crank, rework head etc.). When I do this I want to improve the performance somewhat, but do not want to go crazy (87 octane gas). I have read thru the technical information on the Classic Inlines web site (very helpful) and wanted to see if anybody in the forum had advice regarding my general plans for added performance. I plan to drive the car on weekends an/or in good weather (50/50 city/highway). Here is what I am thinking:
1. Already have a 2V Weber 38 DGAS carburetor with a 2-1 adapter plate.
2. Plan to add a DUI distributor.
3. Bore cylinders .030” over and machine deck to get SCR/DCR correct for 87 octane gas.
4. New hydraulic camshaft and bearings – maybe the CS 264/264 or 264/274, but not 100% sure on lobe centers yet (maybe 112 with auto trans?). New hydraulic lifters.
5. Turn crank .010” and replace main/crank arm bearings.
6. Get new .030” smaller dished pistons with moly rings. (current pistons may be California 13cc dished)
7. Go with new larger valves (1.5” and 1.75”). Have hardened exhaust valve seats pressed in head (FYI - head is a small log).
8. Replace non-adjustable rocker assembly with 1.5 ratio adjustable rocker assembly (new ball and cup push rods to accommodate adjustable rockers).
9. New valve springs (302SB single springs).
10. New oil pump, timing set, motor mounts, harmonic balancer, water pump (radiator is relatively new)....
11. Headers and 2” single exhaust (may wait to do this after I get the car running).
Basically I want to try to ensure I am not making any big mistakes (losing lots of low end torque, getting a rough idle etc.). I plan to have the head work done first so I can measure the combustion chambers after machining (not sure if any unshrouding or porting will be done). Then I can determine if or how much I should have the block decked to get the CR where I want it. I plan to use a .050” composite head gasket and get all new seals. The above represents the extent of my budget for this sort of thing.
Any advice regarding these modifications would be greatly appreciated. It is one thing to read about things and another to have actually done them. Thanks for your time in reading/responding.
