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broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

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johneo
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broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #1 by johneo » Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:53 am

Greetings, Our 65 Mustang Coupe engine appears to be in good shape with the exception of a broken ear on the cylinder head for #6. Just got the car running earlier this year and found the broken ear on the garage floor! Looks like previous owner tried to jbweld it back in place.

Anyway, we have a set of Clifford Performance headers but not sure if we should even bother trying to put these on right now. Am interested in your thoughts and recommendations. Is it possible to get a good seal and not have exhaust leaks with this broken off ear? Is it worth trying to stick weld the ear back on? Or is a new / rebuilt head in my future?

We are also planning to install AC later this month since we live in GA. I've heard pretty good things about Vintage Air and Nostalgic Air . Any experience or recommendations?

Thanks

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1966Mustang
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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #2 by 1966Mustang » Wed Aug 02, 2017 10:12 am

Hello,

Here's some good reading while you wait for a better response. :)

How to install headers with A/C
'65 Mustang Coupe, C4, DUI, CompCams 260, Addco 1", StreetOrTrack Front Bilstein Coilover System, Bilstein Rear Shocks, 4-1/2 leaf springs.

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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #3 by B RON CO » Wed Aug 02, 2017 1:43 pm

Hi, I lived with the same broken ear for years. After being on the forum for a while I decided to go with a 2 barrel head, modified by 1hotvega. You can see his stuff on ebay. I was very lucky to find a take out 200 from a member on this site for a reasonable price. It really improves the breathing on my engine. I used to have the gas pedal on or near the floor most of the time. Now I keep up with the traffic no problem. Check out in the Falcon Performance Handbook. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #4 by rbohm » Wed Aug 02, 2017 2:49 pm

broken ears can be JB welded in place, provided the metal is prepared properly.

both systems you looked at are good ones, vintage air is probably the best known given the length of time they have in the industry. so it comes down to customer service and price.
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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #5 by bmbm40 » Wed Aug 02, 2017 7:40 pm

Glad you found this forum the worlds leading Ford six authorities (not me) are all members here so you will get lots of good info. The 65 Mustang is one of my favorites and would like to have one myself. Are you satisfied with the performance you have now?
If not you may want to start looking for a later head from 79 and up. Have it reworked at your leisure and install with your headers.Doing this with an 1101 carb and custom curved DSII from wsa will make a difference when you step on the gas.
Just adding headers now may not give any real added hp/tq. Plus it would depend on what your exhaust system diameter is. You want a 2".
Definitely get a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook it is all about the Ford 170/200/250.
If you are satisfied or somewhat satisfied and if you have a 2" exhaust now get an 1101 carb and a custom curved DSII and install your headers. It'll be good.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #6 by bubba22349 » Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:06 pm

I would probably stick weld the ear back on but that's just me. :rolflmao: Good luck :nod:
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welding cast iron

Post #7 by chad » Thu Aug 03, 2017 5:13 pm

'forge' weld (heat head)
hi nickle cont. rod
good penetration
done (another hundred K)
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #8 by bmbm40 » Thu Aug 03, 2017 7:26 pm

bubba22349 wrote:I would probably stick weld the ear back on but that's just me. :rolflmao: Good luck :nod:


or...yeah, you could do that :wink:
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #9 by 1strodeo » Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:16 pm

My 66 Bronco 170 has had a broken ear on #6 since I've owned it, but the leak always came from the 3/4 ports. I recently removed the head to install an Offy adapter and a clifford port divider, and while I had it off I filed the ear some metal to make it seat a nut better, if that makes sense. up until then I had a nut & bolt on the broken flange but the bolt was never quite perpendicular to the ear. Have not started it since as the chassis is separated from the body

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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #10 by powerband » Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:33 pm

brazed and tapped flange but I still use a bolt-thru and fastener like a stud on the head.


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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #11 by johneo » Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:45 am

Thanks to all for the links and great recommendations.

Here are the highlights so far.

The good -
- Classic Air AC system installed and working - awesome purchase.
- Ordered custom curved distributor from DUI and Holley 2 barrel carburetor but haven't installed yet.

The bad -
- three studs from exhaust manifold broke during removal - two broke at the head of the stud that left exposed threads but one broke off flush with head. Was able to remove the first two without too much effort. THe third has been brutal - drilled it and tried using a 9/32 EZ out and ended up cracking the head from the edge of the tapped hole to the edge of the cast lug!

And the ugly -
- So.... guess it is time now for a new head. I've read in other posts that a 1978 or later head is recommended. Our goal is have improved performance and good drivability as a weekend cruiser. What would you recommend?

Also, other than the instructions in the Ford shop manual, any words of wisdom with regards to removing the head?

Thanks.

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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #12 by xctasy » Mon Sep 11, 2017 3:35 pm

Since all Ford 200'S and 250's after 1966 came out with a factory option Tecumseh/York/Motorcraft A/C unit in no way similar to the one listed, the advice needs to be related only to Sanden A/C units. A number of 170/200'S had generators too.


2V head, Classic Inlines or Vintage inlines head, or or header exhaust definately doesn't work with a factory option Tecumseh/York/Motorcraft A/C unit.


The other solutions in the Ford empire are:-

RickWrench'es high mount Sanden without headers

Image

Ford Australias early 1970 to 1978 solution before going Sanden in 1979
Image


Mike1157's solution

Image
Image


The 1982 the 5.0 Foxes ditched the York for a Sanden, and by 1986, it was drivers side mounted like this retrofited 86 EFI in a freinds early Fox Mustang.

Image

Argentina had round body Falcon's til 1996, and 1969 LTD's till 1973-1981 or so, and the six cylinder 221/ 3.6 liters got this kind with a cast iron adaptor

Image

Image

Sandens were only aftermarket US and Canada small six in line fitments....quite late in the 70's and early 80's.


Like Eric the Car Guy's Fairmont. Low monted, aftermarket.
Image

Image


The article above is not relevent to standard factory 200's and 250's.



If aftermarket non Standard Sanden, then its great/excellent. :thumbup:


If you want to keep a 250 Fridgidaire/Harrison A/C unit, your screwed unless you go Sanden.

/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67303&p=515209#p515209




When low mounted, a Sanden A/C then allow the Alternator to be swung out. On Foxes, the battery is in the way of that.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19664&p=548690#p548690
pikesan wrote:Here's what it looks like in my build. Made some stand-offs to move the alternator away from the header. Came out pretty good! The longer belt needs to be about 1/2" shorter, but other than that, it's time to clean and paint.

Image

It looks like the alternator is still sitting on the header. It's just the angle. There's 4" between them.


The differences between low mount Sandens and the stock York positions are huge, so consider very carefully your options.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc5 ... C_Unit.jpg
Comparing one to the other

Image

Its just I got 1.1" with my earlier small log....

Image
Image
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Re: broken ear at back of cylinder head and recommendations for AC

Post #13 by rickwrench » Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:31 pm

X posted a pic of the location of my sanden install. There is enough room for the headers I was going to install (but never did). I made a Sanden/York adapter plate, with slots that allowed sliding the plate away from the engine a couple inches.
My stock high mount York bracket had slots for front/back adjustment. The adapter I made had side to side slots. Together, I could locate the Sanden compressor anywhere within about a 2x3" oval. Allowed header room and fine belt alignment.
Here is the adapter "plan", top shows the top of my York bracket, other two are the adapter. The rear mount ears were located in front of the back slots on the actual adapter. You can sorta see them in the pic X posted. The best plans are always drawn on sticky notes (or bar napkins):

Image

There a now dozens of places now selling similar Sanden/York adapter plates. Anyone with a drill could relocate the mount location outward several inches.
Rick(wrench)
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chad
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compressor mount

Post #14 by chad » Mon Sep 11, 2017 9:07 pm

WoW !
good info.
Thanks to rickw & X.
I was thinkin of "on board air" for the bronk w/an ol ac compressor. These ideas my B the answer...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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