Assorted problems

I've got an assortment of problems with my 54 223. First one I'm going attend to is the low oil pressure. First off I thought it was the pump, so I replaced it, at the same time I dropped a main cap, was not pleased with the condition of the bearing, plastigauged it and it didn't even touch it. Put it back together and got 12lbs at idle with 15/40, up from 2lbs. Dropped the oil and put in 3 qts 50w and 2 15/40. Got 15lbs at idle. Dropped the oil and put in 2qts Lucas, 2qts 70w and 1qt 50w. Got 22lbs at idle. I hope I can get away with doing the mains and rods in chassis because I'm not equipped to pull an engine. Rear rockers also clack when it warms up. Took the side cover off and saw that the rear oiler wasn't even in the hole. Put it in place, but at the time did,t know there was a grommet supposed to be in there. Rockers still clack.
Any one ever do rods and mains in chassis? How hard is it? Joe

In the distant past I have done quite a number of bearing and rear main seal replacements in the chassis. If the crank is is still good condition (no scratches from trash runing through it) then it could work out. After get them oiling good on the rockers you will likely need to replace the shafts and rocker bushings or get a rebuilt rocker set to get ride of clacking. However there is always going to be some with solid lifters make sure you have the engine warmed up good then check the valve setting clearance (set to factory specs) they could just be a bit loose. Good luck with the 54

Edit also on in car overhauls installed new rings etc. too, not a fun job hanging over the fender and crawling under the car but not impossible. You might also do a compression test to figure out the condition engine first. the oil pressure was lower on these old engines too 45-50 PSI is normal driving down the road 15 to 20 at idle should be adequate to be safe.

Thanks, I was going to check the valve lash before getting the car up in the air for the bearings. I've read so many different ways to do it, running, not running, not sure which way is the best. I'm BIG on simple, I'll most likely do it not running, down the firing order following the rotor with each piston TDC. Joe

Which ever way you do it will work though you might be need to rewarm the engine during, that depends on how long it takes to do it and if it is also very cold temps in your area. On the 223 with it's shaft type rockers is fairly easy to do them running. If the engine is good condition they will idle down too 450 - 400 rpm and lower.

Maybe I'll give it a shot while running, didn't think it would cool down that much that fast. Then again I'm not one to rush. It could be cold when I get to the last ones.Joe

If your more comfortable doing it without engine running it will work great too. When you have the valve cover off with the engine running at low idle you can watch the operation of the rockers and check they are all oiling good. On rockers with very worn shafts and or bushings (this wear is on the bottom side) it can sometimes be seen, the rocker will be bouncing a little on the center shaft as the clearance is taken up. Good luck

With the engine at idle, you can feel the loose rocker(s) by putting a finger on top of the adjusting screw. The loose ones will have a more pronounced shock delivered to your finger. Valve clearance from my Motor Manual on the valves is .015 (15 thousandths) hot on the intakes and .019 (19 thousandths) hot on the exhausts. Clearance on both rods and mains is .0005 to.0021 (half a thousandth to 2.1 thousandths) If you used the plastiguage correctly, and got no reading, you have a problem. Was the bearing worn looking at the very bottom? Usually when plastiguaging a main bearing in the vehicle, the crank weight must be supported GENTLY with a jack before using the plastiguage. If you got no reading even without supporting the crank, you have a problem, either with wear, or the crank was ground undersize and the wrong bearings installed. Did you pull a bearing to see what undersize, if any, was intalled? Was the pan and rest of the engine nice and clean like a recent overhaul? Rod bearings can be checked for excessive looseness by pushing them up and down with your fingers with the crank in mid stroke condition. This is not accurate enough for setting bearings, but gives a good indication. Richard

I pulled the second main cap and the bearing was pretty worn. The pan had a lot of sludge and what also looked like carbon flakes. The crank was supported by the three other mains when I plastigauged it. I was hoping I could get by for a while using heavier oil and Lucas, but 22lbs is all I get. All the bearings had was the Ford logo on them. I don't have too much experience with motor work, the crank didn't look great, but maybe it can be cleaned up with emery cloth. The last thing I want to do is pull the engine, I'm not equipped for that, but I also have a thing for doing it right. What a predicament. Joe

All the bearings had was the Ford logo on them.

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Ford Logo bearings (original equipment) it also means size is standard too. If you can see any copper color the bearings would be worn enough that it would lower the oil pressure some. Which color plastiguage did you use red or green and how did you place it? If the crank was polished and fresh bearings installed probably would help some.

I did this about 7 months ago, at least, my bearings as I recall were starting to show copper, I used green plastigauge and placed it roughly between 4 and 5 o'clock on the lower main bearing. Torqued it and it came out untouched. Joe

In order to get an accurate reading with the Plastigage it should set across main or rod as in direction of the crankshaft center line and bottom of cap or crank throw (in the 6:00 o'clock) position. It would also need to be to the side of and away from a bearing grove or oil feed hole in crankshaft. If you did it like that and did not get a reading than try some red it's made to measure the larger bearing clearances. Below is a link with some pictures and better description on use. Good luck

http://www.fordmuscle.com/fundamentals/plastiguage/

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions. I'm going to do the easier thing first, the valve adjustment, then the bearings.
I found a grommet for the oiler tube at work thats the exact size of the Ford part. I work in the parts dept of a Mack dealership. It comes in handy. Joe