60-2 or 36-1 Trigger Wheels? Stainless?

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clintonvillian
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60-2 or 36-1 Trigger Wheels? Stainless?

Post #1 by clintonvillian » Mon Apr 06, 2015 8:36 pm

I am sure the 60-2 is more accurate. If you choose one over the other are there any issues as far as compatibility with hall pickup sensors, ECU recognition etc.

Also I am going to be getting my crank pulley back soon. I will need to have my wheel cut, can it be out of stainless?

guhfluh
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Re: 60-2 or 36-1 Trigger Wheels? Stainless?

Post #2 by guhfluh » Thu Apr 09, 2015 3:59 pm

I do not believe it can be stainless. I believe it needs to be ferrous, unless it is a flying magnet type, and then it won't be a toothed wheel. If you have a good sensor and your ECU has a good enough processor, the 60-1 will give more accuracy, especially at low speeds.

How are you going to affix a trigger wheel to the stock balancer? 300 correct? Which balancer are you using, ie how many grooves and what sizes?

I'm interested. It doesn't look too easy, so I haven't tried too hard to find a solution.
1967 F-250 Crew Cab 2wd, 300 6cyl, T-170/RTS/TOD 4-speed overdrive
240 head, Offy C, EFI exhaust manifolds, Comp 268H, mandrel 2.5-3" exhaust, Edelbrock 500, Pertronix ignitor and coil, recurved dizzy. 200whp/300wtq

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CoupeBoy
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Re: 60-2 or 36-1 Trigger Wheels? Stainless?

Post #3 by CoupeBoy » Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:19 pm

He talks about it on this forum.
EDIS wheel and Crankshaft position -- FordSix Forum
He designed his own custom 8 rib serpentine belt pulley that installs over top of a zero balance SBF balancer and includes a step with 4 machine screw holes so he can bolt on a tone ring.
He texted me pictures of it a little while ago.

I tried to make him a 36 tooth gear at work on the cnc plasma table, but it just can't create the type of accuracy required for his application..
He told me that he would grind off a tooth after he figured out where it needed to be, thus making it a 36-1
for now, this thing is just wall art in my shop..
IMG_1204_706_2.jpg


alternatively you could check out what Turbo_B has written up here.
Scroll down a ways on page 2, he has a picture of his setup.
Turbo 300 in a F150 -- FordSix Forum
Turbo_B wrote:Long time since I updated this thread - then again its been a long time since I have done much to the truck. It has been running well, then in December on my way home from work it stumbled and shut off while traveling down the interstate. I had my laptop hooked to it when it shut off, it was like it lost ignition. The truck tach showed 0 rpm, laptop showed rpm still so I knew the coil had stopped firing. Did my due diligence and did some checking. Actually had spark but the truck would not start! After a little bit of messing around the truck started again and I made it home and parked it.

TFI failure or not I jumped off the distributor boat and went EDIS!

I bought a spare damper years ago for this, after searching Georgia for a competent shop I decided to mail the damper and trigger wheel to Simmons Balancing in Charleston SC. I used Simmons several times before - they did the EDIS damper for my MGB.

Image

Image

I didn't take many pictures so it is hard to see. I ground the cast timing tabs off the timing cover, welded two bosses onto the cover, tapped and helicoiled the bosses and mounted the crank sensor directly to the timing cover.

Image
Was it worth the swap? Will take some driving to determine that. But the RPM signal is much more stable, the engine is smoother, and starts quicker.
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Last edited by CoupeBoy on Fri Apr 10, 2015 11:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

guhfluh
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Re: 60-2 or 36-1 Trigger Wheels? Stainless?

Post #4 by guhfluh » Thu Apr 09, 2015 7:22 pm

Thanks! That actually looks pretty good in the picture. I guess a waterjet would be the way to go then, but I'd probably just buy one from DIYAutotune and have the center cut out on a lathe locally if I were so inclined. Turbo-B's wheel looks like one of theirs. I was hoping it would be as easy as using one of their wheels and bolting it onto the front of the stock damper, using spacers and the factory damper threaded holes, and then making a sensor mount to bolt to the block either on the driver or passenger side, under the belts. The downside is the sensor would have to be removed for any belt changes, but custom machining may not have to be done...
1967 F-250 Crew Cab 2wd, 300 6cyl, T-170/RTS/TOD 4-speed overdrive
240 head, Offy C, EFI exhaust manifolds, Comp 268H, mandrel 2.5-3" exhaust, Edelbrock 500, Pertronix ignitor and coil, recurved dizzy. 200whp/300wtq

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CoupeBoy
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Re: 60-2 or 36-1 Trigger Wheels? Stainless?

Post #5 by CoupeBoy » Fri Apr 10, 2015 11:19 am

Clintonvillian posted pictures of his completed pulley on another thread.
GOT THE NEW SUPERCHARGER CRANK PULLEY AND SBF BALANCER ON! -- FordSix Forum
Image
Image
I think Turbo_B did exactly what you proposed. I think he sent off a crank trigger wheel, had the center opened up to fit over the a lip on the backside of the dampner. Then he had it welded in place instead of bolted.

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