DS I vs. DS II?

michael_cini

michael_cini

Well-known member
I was thinking of doing the recurve on my distributor (1975 250 I6) when I discovered that I don't have a DS II as I thought, but have a DS I. What are the differences and is it worth my time/energy to upgrade?
Thanks guys.
Michael
 
Internally, the distributors are the same.
DSI has the normal-size cap that takes points-type plug wires.
DSII has the large-size cap that takes hei-type plug wires.

I've been using a DSI with good spiral-core wires for a couple of years now with ZERO issues. (well, except for that danged leaky valvestem seal on #6 intake...)
 
I assume you made this discovery because what you have looked nothing like the pictures in the re curve instructions?

I have never seen the insides of the DS1 but if you are asking they must be different. Advantage to the DS2 would be that things like the re curve are better supported and documented. I have also had better luck finding the consumable parts in stock locally.
 
OK, so I have the DS1 presently in my car (green grommet module). So, I decided to keep the DS1 wiring and change to the DS2 box (blue grommet module.
User Explorer was nice to send the schematic for the DS1 and the DS2 so I could compared them. From what I could tell, all I needed to do was reverse the black-green (#8) wire and the purple-blue (#7) wire and it should work. Right?

Well, I tried it today and the car would not start. The battery cranks but no spark, and ideas guys?

Thanks.
Michael

DS1
ds1.jpg

DS2
ds2.jpg
 
Make sure you're getting your right voltages to the coil and look a couple posts down for troubleshooting the Duraspark. Couple of good links there.
 
Thanks for the tip Explorer.

I want to remove the new module and reinstall the old to test module but i cannot get the connectors apart. what is the secret to getting them apart? It says "pull apart" but I can't get them to budge!
 
Thanks for the tips guys. Those sure fit snug. Yeah, I ended up breaking off a couple of them, but I got the module out!

I plugged the old module (green) in and the car started right up! I'm glad that I didn't burn out anything. So, now I have to figure out what has to be switched around to make the blue module work. In the mean time it's nice to have the car running.

Michael

Explorer":2irc7rs6 said:
They just have a plastic locking tab on each side of the plug.
Click to expand...
rommaster2":2irc7rs6 said:
The secret for me was breaking the plastic locking tabs, the damn things are a snug fit either way
Click to expand...
 
Looked at those diagrams again and you don't need to swap the 7/8 pins. They are the same, just optical illusion, the colors/pin numbers match up. Should be plug and play, see note: replacement module may not have/use the brown wire.
 
I agree, you "should" not need to swap those wires; plug and play will probably get it going.

I believe the schematic posted is in error; the numbers do match but the "apparent" positioning is indeed misleading. I looked up the schematic in my Haynes 73-79 F-series manual and the black-green wire from the distributor is a ground connection; by reversing the wires you simply grounded the "sensor" module, hence no spark. All of the model years shown for the F-series show the same relative wire positions on the Duraspark modules, and I see no reason why they would be changed for the cars.
Joe
 
I'll swap you my 14" snow and still coming, along with 15mph winds drifting it for your rain.
 
don't get me wrong, i do not complain about the weather in sunny SoCal often. i know cold weather, i grew up in michigan! but i have a 1 car garage (used as storage), so all of my wrenching takes place in my driveway!

Explorer":pcfixt2c said:
I'll swap you my 14" snow and still coming, along with 15mph winds drifting it for your rain.
Click to expand...
 
That would be my guess. Can't see anything else causing it with your old module still working. Pretty much verify's everything else is good.
 
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