Yes I did.Ramian17":1645w51e said:
There wasn't any port work done that I could see.
Here is what my head intake port looked like.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hoxt81l1paszf ... t.JPG?dl=0
Turbo 240 or 300
- Thread starter Ramian17
- Start date
There wasn't any port work done that I could see.
Here is what my head intake port looked like.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hoxt81l1paszf ... t.JPG?dl=0
:x I'm pretty in happy with the shop. Well what do I do now? Take it back and make him take the head off and pay more for more work lol?Yes it takes a lot of time to port using a die grinder and also expensive if done by CNC.Ramian17":29vnpd3v said:
If you did not get charged for port work then it is fair.
The larger valve will help and low rpm performance will be fine.
Do you have the cam card with the cam specs?
so we are ordering the stainless for the header and will be working on it as soon as it gets here. what size tubing should i go with? The headers that came off of the motor where 1 5/8 in tubing is that what i should go with? I was thinking that while i was waiting on the SS order that i could convert this distributor over but i have no idea how to go about that lol so any advice is always welcome. it currently has a pertronix ignitor sensor in the distributor.
oh yeah I'm about to order that intercooler off of eBay are you sure that is the size i want? i did tons more research and there is just so much info out there!!! basically i am trusting you on almost this whole build cause you hadn't noticed. i will admit i am way over my head hehe. so just confirming i guess that this is the money shot when it comes to intercoolers for my set up??? lol
1 5/8" tubing for the header is perfect.
I'm assuming you are still going to use the Holley HP EFI system.
If so you need the Ford 4.9 distributor that supplies a PIP signal and has no mechanical or vacuum advance.
I believe it was for the 1987 - 1991 engines. It will look like this with the gray module mounted on the side but the cap will be black.
The Cardone 84-2687MA should get you a new distributor with cap, rotor and module.
[image]https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/sgt-fd10_hb_m.jpg[/image]
The HP EFI has a cable that plugs directly into the distributor module. The Cardone 84-2687MA should get you a new distributor with cap, rotor and module.
The intercooler is rated at 550 hp and has the inlet and outlets are facing back towards the engine which I'm hoping will work for you.
It should mount directly behind the front grill so it gets plenty of airflow going down the road.
I'm assuming you are still going to use the Holley HP EFI system.
If so you need the Ford 4.9 distributor that supplies a PIP signal and has no mechanical or vacuum advance.
I believe it was for the 1987 - 1991 engines. It will look like this with the gray module mounted on the side but the cap will be black.
The Cardone 84-2687MA should get you a new distributor with cap, rotor and module.
[image]https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/sgt-fd10_hb_m.jpg[/image]
The HP EFI has a cable that plugs directly into the distributor module. The Cardone 84-2687MA should get you a new distributor with cap, rotor and module.
The intercooler is rated at 550 hp and has the inlet and outlets are facing back towards the engine which I'm hoping will work for you.
It should mount directly behind the front grill so it gets plenty of airflow going down the road.
Awesome i would love to use that stock distributor!! Will it sill allow for fully sequential firing with a coil packs near the plug? I was going to go megasquirt but honestly i want to go with whatever you can give me best maps that will work for me lol. So which ever you think is better in terms of engine control?
It will work with either the Megasquirt 3 or the HP.
The PIP signal from the distributor has one pulse that is 30% shorter than the other 5 which defines cylinder #1 so you can have sequential injection and sequential ignition.
The PIP signal from the distributor has one pulse that is 30% shorter than the other 5 which defines cylinder #1 so you can have sequential injection and sequential ignition.
Perfect that is great news you are the man pmuller thanks for all the help!!!! I will be ordering the tubing tomorrow and also starting on the 3/8 inch mount that will bolt to the front of the motor. I guess I would ask you should I go extra mount and header made of tubbing or go pipe?
I definitely found 1 3/4 and it would probably be close to the same ID. The reason I ask is cause I talked to Burns stainless yesterday and set up a quote for tubing and collectors. He said that to do it with the extra mount on the AC bolts on the front of the motor. I would need to put a full 180 bend in every pipe right before the collector to allow for expansion and contraction if I want any chance at a long life header. I think it is do able but am going to go look at the van again and talk to my buddy before I spend the $$$$$$. What do you think is he correct? I like the idea of the extra mount or is better to go pipe if I can get the right size and the bends?
Flex tube is too thin and wouldn't hold up to the heat very long
The bracket that bolts to the engine block just has to hold the weight of the turbo off the header pipes.
I would sandwich a thick plate between the collector and turbine inlet that sits on a cutout in the bracket
It would hold the weight of the turbo but allow movement as the pipes expand and contract.
I'm assuming the collector faces upward and the turbine housing outlet faces downward.
The bracket that bolts to the engine block just has to hold the weight of the turbo off the header pipes.
I would sandwich a thick plate between the collector and turbine inlet that sits on a cutout in the bracket
It would hold the weight of the turbo but allow movement as the pipes expand and contract.
I'm assuming the collector faces upward and the turbine housing outlet faces downward.
My collectors will probably be mostly parallel to the ground. the turbo inlet will face parallel to the ground too. It has to be like cause I am mounting the turbo up front so all the pipes and collectors will be working that way. How important in your opinion is it make all the pipes the exact same length? You don't like flex pipe like this stuff?
https://www.aceraceparts.com/products/2 ... 1309751620
https://www.aceraceparts.com/products/2 ... 1309751620
Still wouldn't use flex. Besides you were going to collect 3 pipes for one side of the twin scroll and collect the other three to the other side which are rectangular in shape.
I still would make a shelf that the turbo sits or hangs on to hold the weight but allow forward and back movement.
It would be nice if all pipes are the same length but packaging come first.
Do what you can.
I still would make a shelf that the turbo sits or hangs on to hold the weight but allow forward and back movement.
It would be nice if all pipes are the same length but packaging come first.
Do what you can.
I guess I can't picture what you are describing it sounds like the way to go though lol. I'll show it to my welder fab buddy and see what we can come up with. You have any pics of such a set up? But yeah I would like to not use flex pipe, not use schedule what ever pipe, and not have to put huge 180° bends in tubing. I bet my buddy was trying to figure out what you're describing he was trying to think of a way to make the turbo mount flex.
How about something simple.
Have a single arm that bolts to the collector flange and goes up to a bracket or goes down to a bracket depending on turbo location.
The arm can be a 1/4" thick, 1/2" wide and a couple inches long piece of steel.
Between the arm and the bracket that it connects to, it will allow plenty of flex.
If you want to get fancy use a tube with Heim joints at each end as the arm.
This is what we had supporting heavy 88mm turbochargers.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/234q25rl6uv9n ... 1.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qyt5v6gw274ww ... 4.JPG?dl=0
Have a single arm that bolts to the collector flange and goes up to a bracket or goes down to a bracket depending on turbo location.
The arm can be a 1/4" thick, 1/2" wide and a couple inches long piece of steel.
Between the arm and the bracket that it connects to, it will allow plenty of flex.
If you want to get fancy use a tube with Heim joints at each end as the arm.
This is what we had supporting heavy 88mm turbochargers.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/234q25rl6uv9n ... 1.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qyt5v6gw274ww ... 4.JPG?dl=0
