All Small Six A vacuum advance question-modifying the Autolite 1100 to provide port vacuum and bypass the SCV

[bubba22349]

I pulled the carb and opened it up per the pics in the thread on modding it to remove the SCV ports. I wasn't prepared for finding a bunch of brown sludge in the fuel bowl since I pulled the carb after purchasing the car to perform all the bench adjustments on it that the PO didn't do. The carb was clean at that time. All that gunk has sneaked by the fuel filters in the handful of minutes that I've had the engine running. I'm going to need to drain the tank and check it. I have no idea what that gunk could be, but I haven't added any gas since buying the car-not running.

At any rate, here's two photos with the holes that I think need to be plugged circled. I want to make sure this is right because the pics in the original thread aren't very clear. I've also attached part of the original thread on modding the carb. Should the hole on the right in the second pic be plugged along with the one on the left, or is it the one in the middle that should be plugged? They are different sizes. Plugging the one on the right would seem to block all vacuum from the fitting going to the distributor.

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Hi Kritas, the hole on the right in the second pic would not be plugged only the one on the left that goes into the SCV Port, the one in the middle isn't plugged either, if you plugged those two there wouldn't be any Vacuum coming from the Carb Base and going to the Threaded Distributor Vacuum Advance Port. The other two that you Plug up are inside where the SCV Port threads are you have that first one circled on the front plus there is another that is behind that. The goal is to only plug off the Upper Ventra Vacuum Source that was mixed in with Manifold Vacuum from the Carb Base with the SVC. You will only want to have the Manifold Vacuum Source from the Carb Base going up to the Distributor Advance Port when your done. If you are still have trouble seeing them all try using a small wire and run through those Vacuum Holes to see were they lead to, the only ones you need to have are those Yellow lines. Good Luck

 

[Kritas]

Hi Kritas, the hole on the right in the second pic is would not plugged only the one on the left that goes into the SCV Port, the one in the middle isn't plugged either, if you plugged those two there wouldn't be any Vacuum coming from the Carb Base and going to the Threaded Distributor Vacuum Advance Port. The other two that you Plug up are inside where the SCV Port threads are in you have that first one circled on the front plus is another that behind that. The goal is to only plug off the Upper Ventra Vacuum Source that was mixed in with Manifold Vacuum from the Carb Base by the SVC. You will only want to have the Manifold Vacuum Source from the Carb Base going up to the Distributor Advance Port when your done. If you are still have trouble seeing them all try using a small wire and run through those Vacuum Holes to see were they lead to, the only ones you need to have are those Yellow lines. Good Luck

I think that clears it up. The goal is to plug off everything going to and leaving the SCV.

 

[Frank]

Kritas, this may be elementary, but when I'm chasing confusing vacuum or fuel passages in a carb, shooting brakeclean or compressed air into an orifice reveals the internal routing, and can clear up confusion about what's what.

 

[bubba22349]

Hi Kritas, Can you take a picture of the SCV Port and post it First to be sure? I don't have any Autolite Core's here that I can look at.

 

[Kritas]

Hi Kritas, Can you take a picture of the SCV Port and post it First to be sure? I don't have any Autolite Core's here that I can look at.

Here's a couple of photos. I see the second hole now, it's at the top and further back.

 

[Kritas]

I've completed the modifications as described. I also changed the title of the thread to reflect the discussion of the mods, as I think it may be instructive for others who are looking to keep their Autolite 1100 carb while upgrading their distributor in the future.

 

[78_200_C4]

The spark valve uses throttle bore and venturi vacuum.
There is no ported vacuum available on a Load'O'matic 1100 regardless of what the Drop'A'Load article says.
If you want ported vacuum you will have to plug the throttle bore vacuum with JB Weld then drill a hole above it.
I followed the Drop'A'Load article on an Autolite 1100 and a spark valve Holley. I still had vacuum advance at idle.
Having to disconnect the vacuum advance line when setting the initial timing shows the spark valve carbs have no ported vacuum.
There is a easy way to modify the Autolite 1100 while retaining the stock spark valve and vacuum advance line.
Remove the brass vacuum advance fitting from the carb. Buy a 6-32 drill bit + tap. Going thru the vacuum advance port drill and tap the venturi port. Screw in a 6-32 phillips head screw. This will block the venturi port to prevent excessive vacuum advance on a non-load'omatic distributor at low manifold vacuum while retaining the throttle bore vacuum.

 

[78_200_C4]

Here is an Autolite 1100 that I plugged the throttle bore vacuum with JB Weld then drilled a new vacuum port above it.
The plugged vac. port is marked with a blue marker. This carb. had the Drop'A'Load article modifications. The vacuum advance now has no vacuum at idle.

 

[wsa111]

This is a link to delete the SCV.

Delete SCV on 1100 Autolite for Ported Vacuum

Here are the instructions to delete the SCV on a Autolite 1100 & convert the vacuum port to ported vacuum. You need a #36 drill bit to drill a shallow hole to just the depth of the 6-32" brass set screw. You will use 3 of these set screws. Tap only the orifices circled in red there are three...

fordsix.com

 

[78_200_C4]

The photos that I saw on the link to "delete the SCV" were posted by JimG of Danville, Virginia Aug 28, 2011
I saved that page and have the same photos but they are separate and better quality.
If just the venturi port was plugged you would have the same result. Throttle bore vacuum at idle. No ported vacuum.
I used a Phillips head 6-32 screw instead of a 6-32 plug because the Phillips head screw won't come loose and fall into the carb. and damage the engine
One step is missing and that is plug then drill the throttle bore vacuum port higher so there is no vacuum at idle.

The Ford Falcon News
Board index » TFFN Online » Fuel Systems (Non EFI) Covers carbs, pumps, and Gas Tanks
Convert "Spark Control" 1100 to ported vacuum?
JimG
Post subject: Convert "Spark Control" 1100 to ported vacuum?
Post Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 6:24 am

 

[bubba22349]

Hi 78_200_C4, if you you have better Pictures and Instructions to post on how to do the "Drop A Load Mod" I could turn that post into a sticky. That sure would be helpful to some people and also make it easier to explain it. I remember seeing it posted on many different sites and then it was just gone, didn't even think it wouldn't always be available. The Southern California Carb Rebuilding Companies were doing that Drop A Load Mod back in the later 1960's in the area I lived. Recently that's also what happened to the Free Templets and instructions for doing The two versions of the Ford Falcon, Fairlane, Mercury Comet, Mustang, Maverick, of the Shelby / Arening Drop that Ford put out in the 1960's. I still have all those instructions saved but the Templets are now long gone that I had the links to. I guess so that they can now sell everyone one of the Metal Templets instead.

 

[78_200_C4]

JimG used to have a Drop A Load web page. It must have been on Earth Link as his posts had the link on them.
I may have the Drop A Load web page saved on my other computer.
I separating and putting the webpage carb photos in a folder. I will the copy what Jim said about each photo in a text file.
I am doing that now. Here is JimG's Falcon with an exhaust analyzer probe in the tailpipe.

 

[bubba22349]

That's sure a great looking Falcon!

 

[78_200_C4]

Hi 78_200_C4, if you you have better Pictures and Instructions to post on how to do the "Drop A Load Mod" I could turn that post into a sticky. That sure would be a helpful to some people and make it easier to explain it. I remember seeing it posted on many different sites and then it was just gone, didn't even think it wouldn't always be available. The Southern California Carb rebuilding Companies were doing that Drop A Load Mod back in the later 1960's. Recently that's also what happened to the Free Templets and instructions for doing The two versions of the Ford Falcon, Fairlane, Mercury Comet, Mustang, Maverick, of the Shelby / Arening Drop that Ford put out in the 1960's. I still have all those instructions saved but the Templets are now long gone that I had the links to. I guess so that they can now sell everyone one of the Metal Templets instead.

I have thought about buying a cardboard 63 Falcon glove box taking the staples out, laying the whole thing flat and tracing the pattern on to some used 26 gauge sheet metal that I have. Harbour Freight has a cheap 30" brake and I have a Harbor freight spot welder.

 

[78_200_C4]

If a Non Load'O'Matic distributor had a good fast curve in it with the proper total advance the vacuum advance could be left not connected. I think it would perform much better than a Load'O'Matic. I would be like an old Ford or Mallory dual point distributor. This might be good for people who don't want to modify a carb. or use manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance. Someone might delete the vacuum advance units, recurve them then sell them. The vacuum advance could be adjusted instead of deleted so that the engine doesn't miss at idle with from too much advance when operated on manifold vacuum. I had to do this on my 200

 

[78_200_C4]

If you look at the 1100 vacuum circuit diagram the venturi port is a small vacuum leak at idle. To stop this leak drill and tap the venturi port for a 6-32 Phillips head screw. Plug the vacuum advance port on the 1100 if you want to run a centrifugal advance only distributor or use manifold vacuum advance. That's a JimG of Danville, Virginia Aug 28, 2011 Ford Falcon News photo

 

[bubba22349]

I have thought about buying a cardboard 63 Falcon glove box taking the staples out, laying the whole thing flat and tracing the pattern on to some used 26 gauge sheet metal that I have. Harbour Freight has a cheap 30" brake and I have a Harbor freight spot welder.

Yes that would be a very good Idea! My dad bought a large Brake many years ago that I used to make sheet metal parts with, sure wish I still had it to use. I actually did make a few metal Glove box's for a couple of my older trucks one was a 1956 F350. Once you have it made it will will last you many many years as well as having the ability to carry far more weight in it, if you ever needed without damaging it.

 

[78_200_C4]

Bubba you were lucky that you had a father interested in cars and engines. When I was 12 I would ask my stepfather and other men engine questions and even at 12 I realized that men would give BS answers just to not admit that they didn't know anything. I had a David Bradley 2 stroke chain saw engine that didn't have any spark. I traded a slot car for it. I never got it running. I didn't know enough to mix oil in the gas!
I found the Drop'A'Load webpage that I saved years ago. The URL was 1963falcon.com. Maybe it could be converted to a pdf file or recreated using the page source and the original .jpg files.

 

[Frank]

Bubba you were lucky that you had a father interested in cars and engines. When I was 12 I would ask my stepfather and other men engine questions and even at 12 I realized that men would give BS answers just to not admit that they didn't know anything. I had a David Bradley 2 stroke chain saw engine that didn't have any spark. I traded a slot car for it. I never got it running. I didn't know enough to mix oil in the gas!
I found the Drop'A'Load webpage that I saved years ago. The URL was 1963falcon.com. Maybe it could be converted to a pdf file or recreated using the page source and the original .jpg files.

78_200_C4, same here. Only my dad knew he didn't know the first thing, and didn't pretend. My engine fascination was irrepressible though, began checking out the Chilton Repair Manuals by age 10 or so from the local public library, and learned how they worked "backwards", from deduction via the repair books. My best friend's dad worked at the mill, and often had a major repair or overhaul project going on in his garage. I still remember how cool it was to see that slant-6 hanging from the chain hoist over the removed hood of their Belvedere wagon. Unfortunately all I ever got from Mr. Westmorland was, "you boys get on outta here before you get hurt!" LOL, seems odd now to remember that there was a time that computers, cell phones and electronic ignition did not exist.
Kritas- pardon the diversion down memory lane.

 

[Kritas]

Kritas- pardon the diversion down memory lane.

I was interested in cars in high school but had no money and no support at home for working on them. My first college roommate was from a small town near our school and was building a V8 Vega. I didn't have a car and was soon funneling my meager supply of cash into a Vega Kammback. My buddy's dad was in the Merchant Marine, had a fantastic barn/shop, and was gone for extended periods. He encouraged us to work on our cars there. My dad saw I was interested and working hard, so he funded part of that first project. He had a '66 with a six as well.