Distributor Swap

[Sprint1966]

Hi guys, i'm looking to trade up from the 66 load-o-matic with autolite 1100 to a 68 distributor on my 66 200 and i have a few questions.

1. Will it fit right in? I believe they are both 5/16 drives, is there anything else i would have to consider with the fit?
2. Will i need to change plug wires? CJ's has two separate sets for the 66 and 68.
3. There is a dual vacuum and single vacuum for the 68 200, which is better and why? If i use the double will i need to run a whole new line from somewhere or can i just split the transmission vacuum line 3 times instead of twice like i would with the single advance?
4. Is there anything that i might be missing that may be an issue?

Thank you so much guys!

~Chris

 

[wsa111]

Chris, i would purchase a later DS11 which would require different wires & chose a single vacuum advance. then the distributor will need to be custom curved for your engine.
If you plan to stay with your 1100 carb it will have to be modified for the later distributor.
Any questions PM me i can take care of both situations. Bill

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Chris:

The quick and dirty answer is "Yes, but". Sorry. The later distributor will fit with no problem however it is a non-Spark Control Valve (SCV). It used a ported vacuum signal from an 1100 Autolite from '68 & '69, non SCV. You'd want to find a '68 - '69 1100 Autolite carb or you will have a mismatch between carb and distributor vacuum advance signal. Others here have tried to crutch the mismatch with varying degrees of success. Also know the the '68-'69 Autolites are down on cfm when compared to earlier SCV Autolites. 150 to 185 cfm. FoMoCo figured that the better distributor with mechanical advance would make up for the downsize difference but it doesn't. Ideally you would like to find an Autolite 1101 from a 1969 Mustang with a 250 engine. These 1101 are identical in appearance to the 1100s but do not have a SCV and offer a ported vacuum signal that the later distributor needs. They are rated at 215 cfm. That will put a WOW smile on your Mustangs face.

On the vacuum canisters, either will work. If you happen to have the dual, advance/retard canister just leave the inner nipple open. The inner nipple is the timing retarder. You don't want it.

The transmission vacuum line is a full manifold vacuum source. Leave it alone.

I did this upgrade on my '65 Ranchero as one of the 1st upgrades I did. And I can tell you the '68 distributor with a '69 Autolite 1100 is a great upgrade- no other changes.

Hope that helps. Keep us posted on your progress.

Adios, David

 

[Sprint1966]

I'm going to see if i can track down a rebuildable '69 1101 then, sounds like it will make a nice upgrade. Trying to stay at a pretty low price tag as money is tight being in high school.

Thanks guys!

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Chris:

Don't overlook Bill's (wsa111) suggestion of using a later (and better) DuraSpark II ignition system. If you've already got the '68 distributor, that's fine and a good upgrade with the right carb, but if you're buying consider a DS II system as it is an electronic unit that does not use points. It has a stronger spark and several other pluses. The DS II system consists of the distributor, coil, module and spark plug wires. I usually pick mine up at the recycle yard and I get the factory wire harness too. After a little cleaning and checking over it all goes right in with just a little wiring. Do a search on this forum for wiring details. If you like the '68 distributor, you'll love the DS II. Just a thought.

If you can't find an 1101, another option is a Carter YF from a 1970 and later 200. They are rated at 187 cfm, but will require using a later throttle cable and some other adaptations.

Adios, David

 

[Sprint1966]

I'm trying to maintain a near stock appearance on this car, that's why I didn't look in to any of the electronic systems in the first place. That autolite 1101 looks like the closest to stock look but I know one of my friends has a Carter YF off of a 77 or so 200 that I might be able to use. What kind of adaptations am I looking at there?

Thanks!
Chris

 

[rbohm]

if you want to maintain a stock appearance, i suggest adding a pertronix one ignitor to replace the points in the distributor. its a simple swap, and gives you the reliability of electronic ignition, and it all fits under the older stock cap.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back:

On an 1101 you will need to flair out the top of the carb inlet hole to allow room for the larger butterflys

On a Carter YF you will need to adapt the throttle linkage from your current mechanical rod to a cable linkage that pulls over the top of the valve cover. Fuel line, vacuum line and air cleaner mount may require some massaging as well.

Adios, David

 

[xctasy]

.......
On a Carter YF you will need to adapt the throttle linkage from your current mechanical rod to a cable linkage that pulls over the top of the valve cover. Fuel line, vacuum line and air cleaner mount may require some massaging as well.

Adios, David

We are indebted to David S!



If its a Carter YF, do like this viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72607

They are Carter YFA's technically, and were a periodic standard Ford option for many years. All the air cleaner bits needed to fit them you get of a 250 cubic inch Granada, Maverick, or certain types of 68 to 1972 Bix Six 240 cubic inch full size LTD's. Some mid 70's F100 240 and 300's have an air cleaner that fits.

Some 170 and 200 cubic inch cars had them, but the 240-300 and 250 engines are best candidates. Maverick cables and linkages you'll find in junk yards.

Here is a quick run down of my conversion to a Carter YF 1bbl and throttle cable....this one for David S. Thanks for all your Fordsix help!

My Pony Vaporizer cracked right on the boss for the fuel inlet threads that receive the factory fuel filter (will try to post pic here later). Like the sign outside the mortuary (Halloween obligatory), it 'remains to be seen' if this crack in the upper air horn is repairable. Since the annular venturi of the Pony 1v is integral to that part of the carb, a substitution yields only a standard 1100.

At any rate, thanks to the posts here on cable swap, I switched over to a Chinese 'knock-off' of the Carter YF. It's a new casting being imported by a few sources and available on fleabay for about $150.

Cons: Pretty much requires a switch to a throttle cable for smooth and full accelerator actuation. Only available in ~1.75" bore. Don't know for certain the CFM. Maintenance heave from what I have read, and lastly, a bit tall.

Pros: She runs decent right out of the box. Cold Idle/choked setting is too high, and warm idle curb setting is as well. Easily adjusted. Other than that I'm very surprised it is not overly rich or lean from initial driving and diagnosis. Now I just need a good cheap ('free'?) read on tuning the YF, and a super low profile filter setup to give it the real acid test. Not sure the stocker Mav/Granada/etc. type drop filter will cut it, and I still need to get some clay or some such and measure just how much room I have...but here's a couple pics so far...





'Required/Recommended' Mod - Cable Throttle: The cable pedal I just got lucky. A yard here in DFW had a Granada that had been there for less than a week and was completely picked clean, except for the pedal and throttle cable. Unfortunately for me it was a Bent8 so the cable came up too short (about 17" total). Purchased a cable for a 1980 Fairmont (again thanks to this forum...approx. 26" long), and I was in business after a quick white trash bracket fab. Also made use of a 3/4" piece of MDF to space the pedal mounting bracket far enough away from the firewall to give full actuation. I'm swapping that out for block of aluminum this weekend or next.

This was a reasonable mod with a $5 pedal assembly and $30 new cable plus the cost of the carb, but will stop short of saying a slam dunk win-win until I get it dialed in, the filter worked out and the first tank or two mpg readings.
Cheers and Good Luck!

What air filter part number are you using?

Fortunately there was a gently used one inside when I received the breather, but my guess will be one for a '75 Maverick 250 :

After a few tanks indications are she's a bit rich throughout the range so I need to do some additional tuning.

Still driving and tuning. I need to narrow down the possible jet size, which I'd rather do without having to open it up first...but may have no choice as the range of jets available from Mike's Carburetor Parts is wide and long...probably need to reduce the accel pump shot as well

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter- ... _p_78.html

We quick fabbed a very home spun heat shroud collector from some 2in steel pipe and bolted it to the exhaust manifold, then routed the vacuum as planned. The snorkel diverter works, but needs some cleaning and lubricating, and it does seem to assist warm-up in colder weather.




Good enough for testing, but botched the layout a bit so it doesn't fit as tight to the stocker manifold as I planned, and I think the gauge is too thick for massaging any tighter or to be as efficient as it could be in heat sinking/collecting. So we'll probably fab a replacement from exhaust pipe scrap.

Still looking to add an accelerator dashpot (dampener).

Thanks!