All Small Six Is this normal???

This relates to all small sixes

My63Comet

Well-known member
I am new to Ford products and recently bought a 1963 Mercury Comet 4-door sedan with the 170cc inline six and Mercomatic trans.
I’m hoping to learn more about the car, performance, and possibly how to get more pep out of it.
It runs and drives great, but going up small hills I have it floored at it is sloooow.
I’m here to find out if that is normal with this drivetrain?

Thanks so much for any help with this and others in the future.

-Doug-
 
welcome to the SIX side of the cobweb

nothings 'normal' for an old six car.

the 170 with careful tuning of original equipment can optimize the original driving experience of the era. Early 2Spd automatic matched to pre-interstate rear gears limits modern driving needs..

With simple or major modifications to the 170 and original drivetrain, modern drivability can simply be improved or maximized .



Have fun



'63 'more-door wagon' has a 170 from a rusty 71 Maverick. With simple bolt-on' and drivetrain upgrades, the drivability for modern conditions was greatly improved. Original 3.50:1 ratio rear gears are complemented with a 5Spd Overdrive for maximizing the performance tuned 170's torquey powerband.

. . .


OEM C8DE Ford 170, Precision Machine D7 Head . Oversize intake valves/1.50 exh with- silicon springs and HD retainers, . Milled head w/ Steel Shim Gasket. CR= 9.5:1. H/W 5200 - 2.8 series (32/36) progressive 2Bbl carb., Exhaust ¾ siamese port divider, Champion racing spark plugs, Contact Point/Condensor distributor, Diaphragm Clutch. T5 Adaptor/5speed tranny, Short throw Hurst Indy shifter, OEM 3.50: rear, Shelby sway bar, Addco rear sway bar , Fabricated subframe connectors / crossmember, Hooker 6601 dual out longtube headers. Shoulder belts front and belts for three in rear, Dual chamber master cylinder, OEM wide-wagon brakes, dual air line rear shocks, 14” wheels & 205/195-14 tires, Countersprung Tailgate, Original tube radio …
 
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Is it in second or third at that time?
Also, it is only 170 cubes.
I’ve tried a hill in second and also in low gear then shifting up to drive. Both I need to bury the peddle.
Maybe it’s just all the power she has right now. Her name is “Mrs. Pickles”.
The lady that bought her new in 1963 in Rhode Island was “Beatrice Pickles”. She was 67 yrs old (born is 1895) when she bought it.
 
welcome to the SIX side of the cobweb

nothings 'normal' for an old six car.

the 170 with careful tuning of original equipment can optimize the original driving experience of the era. Early 2Spd automatic matched to pre-interstate rear gears limits modern driving needs..

With simple or major modifications to the 170 and original drivetrain, modern drivability can simply be improved or maximized .



Have fun



'63 'more-door wagon' has a 170 from a rusty 71 Maverick. With simple bolt-on' and drivetrain upgrades, the drivability for modern conditions was greatly improved. Original 3.50:1 ratio rear gears are complemented with a 5Spd Overdrive for maximizing the performance tuned 170's torquey powerband.

. . .


OEM C8DE Ford 170, Precision Machine D7 Head . Oversize intake valves/1.50 exh with- silicon springs and HD retainers, . Milled head w/ Steel Shim Gasket. CR= 9.5:1. H/W 5200 - 2.8 series (32/36) progressive 2Bbl carb., Exhaust ¾ siamese port divider, Champion racing spark plugs, Contact Point/Condensor distributor, Diaphragm Clutch. T5 Adaptor/5speed tranny, Short throw Hurst Indy shifter, OEM 3.50: rear, Shelby sway bar, Addco rear sway bar , Fabricated subframe connectors / crossmember, Hooker 6601 dual out longtube headers. Shoulder belts front and belts for three in rear, Dual chamber master cylinder, OEM wide-wagon brakes, dual air line rear shocks, 14” wheels & 205/195-14 tires, Countersprung Tailgate, Original tube radio …
Great looking wagon!!! I love old wagons.
Fortunately I have a mechanic down the road that has a big repair shops and works on the old stuff. He loves old Mustangs and has a number of them himself. I will have to pick his brain.
Thanks for the info.
 
The 71 Maverick 170 won't have an 1/4" drive LOM distributor.
When I first put a 65 200 in my 63 Falcon it was slower than hell. It had the original round muffler with about a 1-1/2" tailpipe.
I adapted a cheap 2" turbo muffler to the 1-3/4" exhaust system. There was an immediate power increase. It still didn't run like the California emission 66 200 that I used to own. The 65 200 had an LOM distributor in it.
See if your mechanic has 65 or newer 200 so a 5/16" drive distributor with mechanical and vacuum advance can be installed in it.
Another option would be a $400.00+ 1/4" DUI distributor.
 
Minor detail, check the carb linkage for full open throttle with the pedal down. When I got my '63 with one working brake, I drove it 30 miles home at 35 m.p.h floored. Linkage was so far out, carb was only going 1/2 open.
Top speed on flat road?
 
Check your vacuum advance unit. If it's bad your total advance will be what ever the initial advance is.
Check the timing with the vacuum advance line off and plugged.
Try to drive it without flooring it. Flooring may reduce the venturi vacuum and or the throttle bore vacuum causing the vacuum only advance distributor to retard. If you have a round muffler with a small maybe 1-1/2" tail pipe adapt an offset at both ends 2" turbo muffler. This will put the 2" tail pipe below the rear bumper. According to old reviews the 170 2 speed was slow accelerating and had a slower top speed than a 170 3 speed with lower gears.
 
Hi, there are many good ideas on how to improve the performance of the Comet. I would start with a compression test and a good tuneup. Also check the brakes so you know they are in good shape. In my case, my 66 Bronco with the 170 was exactly the same, the pedal was on the floor a lot, and top speed was @ 60 MPH. It is all much better now. Good luck
 
I’ve tried a hill in second and also in low gear then shifting up to drive. Both I need to bury the peddle.
Maybe it’s just all the power she has right now. Her name is “Mrs. Pickles”.
The lady that bought her new in 1963 in Rhode Island was “Beatrice Pickles”. She was 67 yrs old (born is 1895) when she bought it.
Nice story about Mrs. Pickles! Good provenance. My Bronco is named Wanda.
When my Bronco had a 170 it was slow, the 200 helped, but the 250/NV3550 was a big improvement. However my 170 was completely done in. These guys on here can help you maximize performance with your 170.
 
Nice story about Mrs. Pickles! Good provenance. My Bronco is named Wanda.
When my Bronco had a 170 it was slow, the 200 helped, but the 250/NV3550 was a big improvement. However my 170 was completely done in. These guys on here can help you maximize performance with your 170.
 

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Thanks everyone for the great tips. I copied them all down to give to my mechanic when I take the Comet in. I'm sure he will have some great input too. Unfortunetly, I am no mechanic. I can do the minor things, but a proper tune-up and adjustments are beyond me.
I am so glad to have found this site. Lots of input and lots of activity here.
-Doug-
 

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Check your vacuum advance unit. If it's bad your total advance will be what ever the initial advance is.
Check the timing with the vacuum advance line off and plugged.
Try to drive it without flooring it. Flooring may reduce the venturi vacuum and or the throttle bore vacuum causing the vacuum only advance distributor to retard. If you have a round muffler with a small maybe 1-1/2" tail pipe adapt an offset at both ends 2" turbo muffler. This will put the 2" tail pipe below the rear bumper. According to old reviews the 170 2 speed was slow accelerating and had a slower top speed than a 170 3 speed with lower gears.
I just checked and you nailed it. I have a round muffler with a 1 1/2' tail pipe. Will need to upgrade. Thanks again.
 
I like to get and use the 1971 up C4's if possible since they have all of Fords Factory Improvements installed, or at least a minimum of a 1967 to 1969 Trans. The 1965 & 1966 C4's are not as good for any type of performance work without doing some other mods. I also install a TransGo Shift Kit in them and often a small Aux. Trans Cooler.
 
welcome to the SIX side of the cobweb

nothings 'normal' for an old six car.

the 170 with careful tuning of original equipment can optimize the original driving experience of the era. Early 2Spd automatic matched to pre-interstate rear gears limits modern driving needs..

With simple or major modifications to the 170 and original drivetrain, modern drivability can simply be improved or maximized .



Have fun



'63 'more-door wagon' has a 170 from a rusty 71 Maverick. With simple bolt-on' and drivetrain upgrades, the drivability for modern conditions was greatly improved. Original 3.50:1 ratio rear gears are complemented with a 5Spd Overdrive for maximizing the performance tuned 170's torquey powerband.

. . .


OEM C8DE Ford 170, Precision Machine D7 Head . Oversize intake valves/1.50 exh with- silicon springs and HD retainers, . Milled head w/ Steel Shim Gasket. CR= 9.5:1. H/W 5200 - 2.8 series (32/36) progressive 2Bbl carb., Exhaust ¾ siamese port divider, Champion racing spark plugs, Contact Point/Condensor distributor, Diaphragm Clutch. T5 Adaptor/5speed tranny, Short throw Hurst Indy shifter, OEM 3.50: rear, Shelby sway bar, Addco rear sway bar , Fabricated subframe connectors / crossmember, Hooker 6601 dual out longtube headers. Shoulder belts front and belts for three in rear, Dual chamber master cylinder, OEM wide-wagon brakes, dual air line rear shocks, 14” wheels & 205/195-14 tires, Countersprung Tailgate, Original tube radio …
 
Thanks everyone for the great tips. I copied them all down to give to my mechanic when I take the Comet in. I'm sure he will have some great input too. Unfortunetly, I am no mechanic. I can do the minor things, but a proper tune-up and adjustments are beyond me.
I am so glad to have found this site. Lots of input and lots of activity here.
-Doug-
Pretty clean under the hood!
 
Pretty clean under the hood!
Thank you. I think the Comet has only dropped a few drops of trans fluid since I’ve had it in my garage for two weeks now.
Brakes, brake line, gas tank, tires, and some other items were done before I bought it.
So far I’ve done new plugs, horn relay, two new horns, and a coolant recovery bottle.
Have a new headliner and visors coming.
After the car was restored many years ago, mice got in above the headliner and made nests. There were stains on the headliner when I bought it. Wanting to confirm that the stains weren’t from rust I cut the headliner where the stains were, Chewed up insulation and nuts came falling out! I was glad to see there was no rust, but these mice are costing me about $2000 for the headliner, visors, and labor. 😭
 
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