All Small Six Is this normal???

This relates to all small sixes
I like to get and use the 1971 up C4's if possible since they have all of Fords Factory Improvements installed, or at least a minimum of a 1967 to 1969 Trans. The 1965 & 1966 C4's are not as good for any type of performance work without doing some other mods. I also install a TransGo Shift Kit in them and often a small Aux. Trans Cooler.
Bubba,
Now that is some great info on the C-4 transmission! Thank you. 👍

My dad and uncle used to sell Lincoln / Mercury in Northern Indiana back in the mid-60’s into the early 80’s. I would hang out at the bowling alley next door to the dealership on the weekends. I remember the beautiful Lincoln’s, Spoilers, Cyclones, Cougars, etc. on the showroom. My first job was delivering parts. That’s where I learned to drive a three on the tree. Great times as a kid.
 
thnx 4 showin up, joinin us and sharin ur story.

I'd B some 1 who'd drop back a buncha steps from many recommended here. BUT...
I'm cheep, cautious and detailed oriented (I think).

1st Id ID major components in my buy. Even w/only 1 other buyer its been so many yrs AND...
it is a new car to me. I wanna know PLUS become ed-u-ma-cated on this new rig. What is the carberator? OEM?,
rear gear (& ratio), am I sure I no it's a 170? How? etc, etc. That can take weeks (depending). Here's some resources"
and while waiting for delivery:
from the blue horrizontal line top of this page "TechArchive.
Next I'd get-what-I-got running @ it's best.
Bubs has a great ignition tune-up proceedure any1 can do. One tool purchase might B necessary. Have fun, experiment, gain confidence & skill simply by 'getting ur hands durty'. DIY is a real money saver too
After that use his carb tune-up. Probably no new tools necessary ("Sucks, missed opportunity!" I say).
NOW U no what U got !
By this time U may have done enuff reading, asking others and research to know what the vehicle is capable of (beyond stock). During this laborious time you may have saved some money to invest. Know what components to change out (a car isa system, change 1 thing and it effects all others, cant really do 1 in isolation) to get what result. Now U can havea plan to follow to achieve the end goal U want. Make a budget to get there...
 
thnx 4 showin up, joinin us and sharin ur story.

I'd B some 1 who'd drop back a buncha steps from many recommended here. BUT...
I'm cheep, cautious and detailed oriented (I think).

1st Id ID major components in my buy. Even w/only 1 other buyer its been so many yrs AND...
it is a new car to me. I wanna know PLUS become ed-u-ma-cated on this new rig. What is the carberator? OEM?,
rear gear (& ratio), am I sure I no it's a 170? How? etc, etc. That can take weeks (depending). Here's some resources"
and while waiting for delivery:
from the blue horrizontal line top of this page "TechArchive.
Next I'd get-what-I-got running @ it's best.
Bubs has a great ignition tune-up proceedure any1 can do. One tool purchase might B necessary. Have fun, experiment, gain confidence & skill simply by 'getting ur hands durty'. DIY is a real money saver too
After that use his carb tune-up. Probably no new tools necessary ("Sucks, missed opportunity!" I say).
NOW U no what U got !
By this time U may have done enuff reading, asking others and research to know what the vehicle is capable of (beyond stock). During this laborious time you may have saved some money to invest. Know what components to change out (a car isa system, change 1 thing and it effects all others, cant really do 1 in isolation) to get what result. Now U can havea plan to follow to achieve the end goal U want. Make a budget to get there...
Thanks for that post Chad. A lot of great info. You are right, I do need to step back and verify what I have, engine codes, etc.
It looks like that book you mentioned is out of stock. Bummer! I will keep looking.

I don’t suppose you have the link handy to that tuneup procedure you mentioned?
I would love to see it. I just ordered new plug wires, distributor cap, condenser, & rotor.

Thanks,
Doug
 
Thanks for that post Chad. A lot of great info. You are right, I do need to step back and verify what I have, engine codes, etc.
It looks like that book you mentioned is out of stock. Bummer! I will keep looking.

I don’t suppose you have the link handy to that tuneup procedure you mentioned?
I would love to see it. I just ordered new plug wires, distributor cap, condenser, & rotor.

Thanks,
Doug
The Falcon Handbook is essential in my opinion, recently I noticed one on Amazon. But to get you going in the as stated important component id process use this:
 
OK Folks, I have some info, pictures, and numbers.
I do have 3 freeze plugs.

The code that I see on my block is “-3A3L” with a “T” in a circle stamped above it.
What does that -3A3L translate to?
It’s a Comet and not a Falcon if that matters.

Here’s a few pix of my carb. I didnt see any numbers or brand on it. New carb or original?

Also here’s some codes off of the head and exhaust manifold? Originals for the 170?

The 5th digit of my VIN is a “U” for 6 cyl 170.

Does everything look correct for this 1963 Comet with 170cc?

Thanks for any input,
Doug
 

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The T on the Block is the code for a 170 Six looks like your Comet still has the OEM engine. The Carb is an Autolite 1100 looks to be OEM on the other side it would also have the SCV that's connected to a stock Load O Matic type distributor.
 
The T on the Block is the code for a 170 Six looks like your Comet still has the OEM engine. The Carb is an Autolite 1100 looks to be OEM on the other side it would also have the SCV that's connected to a stock Load O Matic type distributor.
Thanks Bubba. That’s what I was hoping for. I think the Comet is pretty much stock original except for the paint and tires.
Still has all the original glass in the car too.
Hoping to get the AM radio working too eventually.
Next is a new headliner which is turning out to be quite costly because the windows need to come out. Damn mice!
 
Hi My63Comet, here is some Tune Spec's for you.

These are the factory stock tune up specs for most of the small six's with the stock Load O Matic (LOM) Distributor's and matching Carburetor's with a Spark Control Valve (SCV). These were used in the Falcon's Comet's, Fairlane's, Mustang's, & plus a few other Mercury Models from 1963 to 1964 with a 144 Six, 1963 to 1967 with a 170 Six, & 1963 1/2 to 1967 with the 200 Six with either a Auto or a Manual Trans. (Note these are up to a 1967 for the 50 state Emissions and for the California Emissions too but only up to the end of 1965 Model Year).

Also Note that those with the very early Six's in the 1960 to 1962 Models with a 144 Six & the 1961 to 1962 170 Six have the same Tune Up Spec's except that they will have a different Base Timing plus they also had Solid Valve Lifter Camshafts as well as the 144 & 170 Small Six's used up to 1966 that were in the Ford Ranchero's, Sedan Delivery's, & the Econoline's (See the below note for those differences).

They are in the numbered order that they should be performed to get to the quickest baseline Tune Up for your small six engine.

1. First the Spark Plugs are gaped to .034.

2. Points are then set to 38 degrees Dwell this will give you the best performance and economy. In a pinch you can set the point gap to .025 and it will run good but it's not really the ideal setting.

3. Base Distributor Timing is set to 10 degrees BTDC for a Manual trans or 12 degrees BTDC with an Auto trans.

4. Starting with the mixture screw set at 1 1/2 turns out (this is after a rebuild) also have the air cleaner assembly installed too and the engine warmed up good to its operating temperature. Next the Carb mixture screw is tuned to the best lean idle setting. This is done by turning the screw in or out until you reach the highest idle RPM on your Tach / Dwell Meter, then turn the mixture screw inward exactly 1/4 turn.

5. Last set the curb Idle RPM, for a Manual Trans this is 525 to 550 RPM. For an Auto Trans this is set to 485 to 500 RPM in drive with the parking brake set or have someone setting in the car holding down the foot brake. If you happen to have AC it should turned be off too.

Additional Tune Up Specs to be changed in the settings for the 1960 to 1962 144 & 1961 to 1962 170 Six's

3B. For the 1960 to 1962 144's & 170's the Base Distributor Timing is set to 4 degrees BTDC for a Manual Trans or 10 degrees BTDC with an Auto Trans.

3C. For 1960 to 1962 144's and 170's have a Solid Lifter Camshaft. Next Warm up the Engine to operating Temperature and set the Intake and Exhaust Valve Lash to .016 Hot

In the below link is info you can use to help you learn a little bit more about how the early Ford Six's with a LOM (Load O Matic) Distributor and the common Holley 1904 / 1908, Autolite 1100, or the Holley 1940 replacement Carburetor's that had a SCV (Spark Control Valve) these need to be matched to work together with one of the LOM Distributor's. Note that the LOM system doesn't work like any of the other Distributor Vacuum Advance systems used on most other cars and light Pick Up's. This is a good article that will help you in getting to know how this system should work and it might help you to figure out if its causing any problems with your tuning. When everything is right and with an engine that's in good condition a Ford 200 Six will Idle very smooth down to sometimes as low as 425 to 450 RPM in drive (for an Auto Trans car or 400 to 450 RPM for a Manuel Trans car). Also check that the Carb's Choke System is working correctly, see the below link for that info. Good luck :nod:

The Ford Load O Matic system
http://www.classicinlines.com/Loadomatic

The Autolite 1100 Carb Settings
www.carburetor-blog.com

Autolite 1100 Carburetor Adjustments - Mikes Carburetor Parts

Autolite 1100 1101 carburetor adjustments. Illustrated float level, vent valve, accelerating pump and other adjustments.
www.carburetor-blog.com

The Holley / Autolite 1940 Carb Manual
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/assets/ ... manual.pdf

In above manual you will find all the basic settings for float level, choke set up, and testing the fuel pump discharge. If you find that the fuel pump discharge test doesn't work as it should, you may have to stake the ball lightly into the carb base with a small hammer and punch. After doing that you will need to replace that ball with another new ball to replace the one you hammered on. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited!

“If you think you can, or you think you can’t—you are correct!” Henry Ford

Current project is a 1988 John Deere 420 Garden Tractor. I am looking for some small parts and some attachments, if you have or know of JD 420 parts I would welcome the help!
 
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Bubba,
I can't thank you enough for the info. I'm going to print it off and take it with me when I drop my car off at the repair shop next week.
The mechanic I use works on a lot of old cars and is a Ford guy too. He has a lot of early Mustangs himself.
Bringing the Comet down for a tune-up, carb adjust, new front/rear shocks, and new transmission and oil pan gaskets.
Hopefully I will be getting more power out of this tune-up. Eventually will be getting a new freer flowing exhaust system.

Again, so glad I joined this site. A lot of great people on here.
Thank you,
Doug
 
The australian 65 66 Falcons had these badges.
Black ' pursuit 170' was for the.... 170's
Red ' super pursuit' was for the 200's
The 144 got no flash name 🤣

they would have been from Ford global parts bin

In aust can get repro ones.

See them on ebay.com.au or via specialist sellers
 

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I like the holden 4WD waggy's from '70s.
The Kingswood wuz SO0ooo tuff'n studry...
1976 holden kingswood station wagon
doesnt hafta B that yr (as some were less 'adorded' more streamlined...
(& look just like our cheb.s)
 
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OK Folks,
Some updates.... I took Mrs. Pickles in for a good tune-up, carb adjust (if needed), a trans flush /service/new pan gasket, oil change/new pan gasket, and new front and rear shocks. I was hoping to gain more power from the tuneup and fortunately I DID!!! The mechanic is well versed in older Fords, mostly early mustangs. When I dropped it off with my tuneup parts he said " it's probably the vacuum advance".
Two things were holding Mrs. Pickles back on climbing even small hills. He said it was the vacuum advance and the timing was off. He said the points were like new and didn't even use them. Its does have new plugs, wires, rotor, and distributor cap now.
It's definetly no tire burner, but I can gladly tell the difference in extra power now.

Doug
(Mrs. Pickles caregiver)
 

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I am new to Ford products and recently bought a 1963 Mercury Comet 4-door sedan with the 170cc inline six and Mercomatic trans.
I’m hoping to learn more about the car, performance, and possibly how to get more pep out of it.
It runs and drives great, but going up small hills I have it floored at it is sloooow.
I’m here to find out if that is normal with this drivetrain?

Thanks so much for any help with this and others in the future.

-Doug-
If you need an exhaust manifold I've seen one on Facebook Marketplace for $100.
 
If you need an exhaust manifold I've seen one on Facebook Marketplace for $100.
Thanks for the info, but I think I’m going to buy a new one instead. My fear in buying used is that it may develop a crack due to age like the original one I have on my car now. Much appreciated though. 👍
 
Thanks for the info, but I think I’m going to buy a new one instead. My fear in buying used is that it may develop a crack due to age like the original one I have on my car now. Much appreciated though. 👍
Doug, FWIW I bought a stock casting ex manifold for a 300 off ebay a couple of years ago. It's china, but is a good piece, matched up and is in service with no issues.
 
You could step up to a 250 "X" cast manifold, and upgrade to a 2" exhaust. I'm running one on my 170.
Hmmmmm, that would be sweet. You sure that would work on my 1963 170? I would love to do a 2” exhaust for a bit of a power gain.
 
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