Adding aluminum head to 250 in a 66 Mustang (engine running video added)

Still here yall, last two things I'm waiting for are the Weber adapter plate for the aluminum intake manifold and aluminum head arp studs and then this operations a go.
 
Latest update, still not started on the build, considering putting it on an engine stand and doing the work on it myself again, any volunteers to walk me through it, would pay for it!

Purchased a new cam spacer ring from VI, only parts that should be needed from the old engine are the timing chain cover, valve cover and (generator/alternator?). Aluminum head ARP studs are on the way from VI.

Will need to get a torque wrench, tap and die for the oil port, cam degreeing kit and random tools I may not have to assemble.

Also planning to send the DUI to Bill to tune the advance and do the over-oiling mod.
 
Okay it's been a while since I updated and this whole project pivoted to a 250 build, most of the way there except I'm having clearance issues with the carb and here for help and possible solutions (different carb? Carb that bolts straight to the intake manifold pattern without adapter plate and no spacers? Some kind of low profile carb or low pro 4 barrel?), keep in mind I'm no expert and have no previous experience so even small details will be helpful. This is without the vintage inlines low pro carb hat that would still need to go up top. I think the pictures will tell it all, so without further ado:

IMG_20211208_135123.jpgIMG_20211208_135309.jpgIMG_20211208_135126.jpgIMG_20211208_135133.jpgIMG_20211208_135135.jpg
 
First off your going to need to remove or use a thiner carb spacer plate or plates. The next solution is to mod or replace the motor mounts when doing a 250 six swap into an early 1964 1/2 to 1966 Mustang chassis so that it drops the engines block down about 3/4 of an inch or more. There are severial ways this can be done such as using the 1971 up Maverick / Comet 250 six frame adapters, also redrilling of the engine block motor mount adapters etc. there are more details in the Faclon Performance hand book too. Best of luck.
 
After dropping the engine down if you still need more clearance the Holley Sniper 2300 doesn't have the choke towers and it doesn't need the spacer under the carb for heat isolation which will give you much more clearance for the carb hat.
 
Yes there should be do you have a picture of your intake without the Weber adapter plate?
 
The Holley Square Bore carburetor bolt spacing is 5.160" x 5.625"
Does this match the intake manifold bolt spacing?

Holleybasegasketfinished.jpg
 
Hi Stryker7314, thank you for all the great pictures that explains a lot! The manifold has a square bore much like the Clifford 4V and a few other older intakes I have seen over the years I was wrong this square bolt pattern is not the same carb bolt patteren that was used on the mid 1950's Rochester 4V Carb's the WCFB's (they were a pretty good Carb that might still be able to be found). Below is a picture of a WCFB 4V carb if you look at it its not a square bolt pattern it's longer one way then it's wide. So yes with the many other newer Carb's you will that carb adapter plate if you want to use your Weber or most of the other newer Carb's. However if you will use 4 Allen head cap screw bolts to mount that adapter plate to the intake manifold instead of those long studs, washers, and nuts, plus the Allen head bolts will fit right down into that carb adapter plate's counter bored holes shown in your first picture I copied below. Then you won't need to use that 3/4 inch tall plywood spacer or stacked carb base gaskets shown in your second picture below and the carb will then sit down that much lower that might get you were the hood closes without to much more work. Edited for a correction.

Rochester WCFB 4V Carb Picture

The picture you posted of the carb plate showing the counter bored holes

The picture you posted showing the Weber carb mounting using the Plywood spacer.
 
How high is your Weber carburetor including the spacer under it?

The Holley Sniper 2300 is 3.28" high and doesn't need the spacer.
I don't know of anything to bolt in place that has a lower profile.
 
Last edited:
bubba22349 said:
First off your going to need to remove or use a thiner carb spacer plate or plates. The next solution is to mod or replace the motor mounts when doing a 250 six swap into an early 1964 1/2 to 1966 Mustang chassis so that it drops the engines block down about 3/4 of an inch or more. There are severial ways this can be done such as using the 1971 up Maverick / Comet 250 six frame adapters, also redrilling of the engine block motor mount adapters etc. there are more details in the Faclon Performance hand book too. Best of luck.
Click to expand...
@Stryker7314 A member on her by the name o f Ron make motor mounts to drop the engine a bit. Don't recall his name, If it was something like @ coupeboy.
 
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