0 to 60 in a blistering 24 seconds!!??
- Thread starter jimlj66
- Start date
Howdy Jim:
Before you baseline make sure you are getting full throttle when the go pedal is depressed. This is a two person job. With the engine off one to sit inside and press the go pedal to the floor while the second person watches to see how much the throttle opens on the carb. It is very common for these cars to not reach full throttle due to linkage wear or poor adjustment sometime in the past. Also not that your CalEm carb has two settings on the accelerator pump lever. Yours should be at the lean setting given your elevation. Because it was originally a California car it is likely set in the richer, lower elevation position.
Also make sure that the timing mark on the damper is accurately indicating TDC. IF The timing mark is accurate try advance the initial timing by 5 degrees over stock specs. At your elevation, your engine might like even more advance.
FYI- The 1966 200 with Calif. Emission has a down sized Autolite 1100. The rest of the countries 200s got a 185 cfm 1100 while the CalEm 200s got a non-SCV 150 cfm 1100. That alone will account for an additional couple of seconds 0 - 60. IF you do want more performance after the baseline be thinking about upgrading your carb to a 1101 from a '69 Mustang 250. They are rated at 215 cfm.
When you send the distributor for a recurve be sure to include your elevation and any plans for a carb upgrade.
Good project. Keep it coming.
Adios, David
Before you baseline make sure you are getting full throttle when the go pedal is depressed. This is a two person job. With the engine off one to sit inside and press the go pedal to the floor while the second person watches to see how much the throttle opens on the carb. It is very common for these cars to not reach full throttle due to linkage wear or poor adjustment sometime in the past. Also not that your CalEm carb has two settings on the accelerator pump lever. Yours should be at the lean setting given your elevation. Because it was originally a California car it is likely set in the richer, lower elevation position.
Also make sure that the timing mark on the damper is accurately indicating TDC. IF The timing mark is accurate try advance the initial timing by 5 degrees over stock specs. At your elevation, your engine might like even more advance.
FYI- The 1966 200 with Calif. Emission has a down sized Autolite 1100. The rest of the countries 200s got a 185 cfm 1100 while the CalEm 200s got a non-SCV 150 cfm 1100. That alone will account for an additional couple of seconds 0 - 60. IF you do want more performance after the baseline be thinking about upgrading your carb to a 1101 from a '69 Mustang 250. They are rated at 215 cfm.
When you send the distributor for a recurve be sure to include your elevation and any plans for a carb upgrade.
Good project. Keep it coming.
Adios, David
I don't know how accurate this is because it is simulated data, but interesting and probably pretty close based on experience with my car.
http://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/ford_usa/mustang_1gen/mustang_1gen_base_hardtop/1966.html
Transmission type: automatic
Horsepower gross: 120 hp (SAE gross)
Torque gross: 190 ft-lb
simulation based on the ECE driving cycles (NEDC) , highway cycle includes higher speeds (130-140 km/h / 80-87 mph)
Top speed: 98 mph
Fuel consumption mpg (U.S.):
(extra-urban / city / highway / average combined)
22.2-29.1 / 13.4-17.6 / 18.6-22.5 / 20.3
Drag times:
0- 1/4 mile (s): 19.5
0-60 mph (s): 13.7
http://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/ford_usa/mustang_1gen/mustang_1gen_base_hardtop/1966.html
Transmission type: automatic
Horsepower gross: 120 hp (SAE gross)
Torque gross: 190 ft-lb
simulation based on the ECE driving cycles (NEDC) , highway cycle includes higher speeds (130-140 km/h / 80-87 mph)
Top speed: 98 mph
Fuel consumption mpg (U.S.):
(extra-urban / city / highway / average combined)
22.2-29.1 / 13.4-17.6 / 18.6-22.5 / 20.3
Drag times:
0- 1/4 mile (s): 19.5
0-60 mph (s): 13.7
CZLN6":20qahhw4 said:
Thanks David
The timing mark on the damper is not at TDC. I had always adjusted the timing by feel and ear as the air pump and belts made it hard/impossible to see the mark. I removed the air pump a while back and pulled the fan belt so I had a clear view of the mark. You can't move the distributor far enough and keep the car running to get it to line up with the timing light so I assume the damper has slipped.
I have a '82 head I plan to do a direct mount 2100 carburetor swap. I have to wait for the funds to catch up with the dreams.
Thanks for the reminder to check the throttle linkage. I'll do that. I guess I should dust off the Performance hand book, IIRC that is one of the first things you recommend there.
I wish we had a 1/4 mile strip closer to me.
With my combo on the street i run a 0-60 in the 7 second range. Without timers this is not as accurate as 1/8 mile times or 1/4 mile times.
I believe 1/8 mile times in the high nines or 10 second area?????
My plus is i am 40' above sea level.
With the right combo these little six's are a nice driving machine.
With my combo on the street i run a 0-60 in the 7 second range. Without timers this is not as accurate as 1/8 mile times or 1/4 mile times.
I believe 1/8 mile times in the high nines or 10 second area?????
My plus is i am 40' above sea level.
With the right combo these little six's are a nice driving machine.
