200/C4 Engine/Trans Removal

[WestCoastComet]

Hey everybody,

I've been planning to pull my motor and trans for a rebuild. It is a 200 with a C4. Where would you hoist it from? I want to pull them together. Do I need a leveler? Or can I just use a couple friends to help me guide it out?

If anybody has recently done this and has pics, that would be nice. However, a good explanation of where you hoisted it from, and what tools, etc. would suffice. Also, did you use a leveler or not?

Thanks everybody, hope to hear back soon.

 

[mysavioreigns]

Definitely get 1 or two people to help...just cause you never know when you might be pinned against something and need one thing moved or hoisted. been there by myself countless times and you'll quickly find out how resourceful you can be (roll WD-40 can 3 feet, knock over pole, grab pole, poke jack, etc. etc. lol)

I would get a load leveler. Makes it much easier, although it can get kind of old wheeling it back and forth to get it right.

I would hit up a junkyard - look on any Ford inline-6, and many have some engine hoisting brackets attached near where the Power Steering pump would bolt into the block (drivers side front). I also use the passenger side rear...like the exhaust bolt.

 

[WestCoastComet]

Cool. Would one bolt on each side be enough to hold a motor AND the trans? or should I hoist from multiple (more than 2) spots? Maybe chain it at two spots and throw some rope around it for assurance? I just don't want a bolt to break and end up with a flat foot.

 

[nickstewartroc]

I can probably get you some picks of how I did it, but I took it out as one unit the engine and trans, bolted to the engine only, most important, buy the leveler, without it, I don't think you'll be able to pull both out, and yes two to three people, never yourself. Also, it is very tedious, you move alittle, then level, then move alittle and level till you almost stand the engine and tranny 90 degrees. I'll try to get some picks up in the next day or so-
Nick

 

[dmsmith63]

Hey. I pulled the 170 and 3 speed out of my Fairlane and then put in the 200/T5 by myself, no leveler. And I have done many others. God looks out for dummies like me. Get some help and a Harbor Freight leveler, or rent one. Use grade 8 bolts and good chain big enough for a 3/8" or 7/16" bolt to fit through the links. Some clevises help also. I put the rear tires on my rolling dollies (anything to get the rear higher), then took off the front wheels and let the front of the car down on blocks, as low as I could. This gives a better angle to get the whole long assembly out/in. I took out the driveshaft and transmission crossmember (drain the tranny, don't forget like I did) and let the tailshaft rest all the way down on the floor jack. Then I turned the jack lengthwise aligned with the car so it would roll along as I hoisted and pulled the motor/trans forward. Where there is a will there is a way. Good luck and be careful.

 

[chad]

gettin the rear up is a good idea (for some) I like it.
Out-0f-the-box (the reverse): lift car up n over both motor/tranny - you've lowered onto a couppla dollys. Frnt is up on ramps, U need about 30 inches...
Can a cross member come out?

 

[WestCoastComet]

gettin the rear up is a good idea (for some) I like it.
Out-0f-the-box (the reverse): lift car up n over both motor/tranny - you've lowered onto a couppla dollys. Frnt is up on ramps, U need about 30 inches...
Can a cross member come out?

I kinda like dmsmith's idea of letting the tailshaft rest on a jack and letting it roll out along the floor as I advance the assembly to the front of the compartment. That way I could probably just set the leveler to lean more heavily on the rear and only need to adjust it when I reach the point of having to clear the front of the compartment. I'll have to remove my power steering linkage and stuff, although it would probably get in the way no matter how I do this. I really don't want to disconnect my power steering hoses, as I was hoping I could just tie the components off to the side. I gotta go look at this stuff after work.

Chad, have you done that before? Sounds easy, but I dunno. Got any details?

 

[chad]

Not clear on a '72 comet's under belly. What ster linkage, cross member, etc would need to B removed. On a '68 chebby van the thing was rolled up on those ramps folk use to wrk from below (stamped metal). Engine unhooked w/tranny & lowered w/floor jack onto the skid milk grates R recycled on to the bottle factory (square L metal frame on rubber swivel casters). Rolled out the frnt past the radiator, down the drive and "chucked' (around 5 - 700 lbs worth). There was a chain fall on the garage joists (1 bay back from the doors) to lift the truck from the bumper area but I don't remember that it wuz needed.

 

[JackFish]

If you take the head off you can use the head bolt holes.

 

[WestCoastComet]

If you take the head off you can use the head bolt holes.

Gee, I may just end up doing that, seeing as how my head is already removed. Shoulda thought of that. Will one bolt on each end really hold all that weight? We pulled my buddy's 258 straight six out of his jeep a while back but I don't remember where we hoisted it from. Thanks jackfish.

 

[69.5Mav]

I installed my sons 302 using just two head bolts. Get new bolts, don't want to ruin your head bolts, and install on oppisite sides of the engine.

 

[JackFish]

I used four bolts and they don't have to be the corner holes.
If you get a leveler sometimes they come with 4 short angle brackets that can be used:

 

[WestCoastComet]

I used four bolts and they don't have to be the corner holes.
If you get a leveler sometimes they come with 4 short angle brackets that can be used:

Nice. I'll try to find one like this. I wanna use the head bolt holes but I can't find my old bolts, I only got ARP bolts. Is there anywhere I can get some extra strong lifting eye bolts with the same thread as the head bolts? Those would be nice with a leveler like that. Thanks for the pic.

 

[JackFish]

You won't need anything more than grade 5 bolts.
A couple of bucks at the hardware store.
Get a couple extra and cut the heads off.
You can use them as locating pins when putting the head back on.
Make sure they're long enough to grab with some vice grips after the head is on.

The engine is bolted on the stand there, the chains are loose.

 

[WestCoastComet]

Cool. Yeah, I got some cut off ones that I used last time when putting the head back on, but lost the rest. My garage is in disarray right now. Thanks for the advice.

 

[woodbutcher]

Another neat trick for removing the cut off bolts,is to slot the end with a hacksaw to use a screwdriver instead of vice grips.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[WestCoastComet]

Another neat trick for removing the cut off bolts,is to slot the end with a hacksaw to use a screwdriver instead of vice grips.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

Yeah I'm definitely gonna slot them. Last time I put the head on and they were just barely too short to get with me fingers, so I had to take it off and unscrew them a bit. They're really nice to have though, I wouldn't wanna mess around with having my gasket poorly aligned. Speeds up the process a bit.