200 ci rebuild

Alright, i should get that book, sounds like to a lot of people is a really great thing to have, b4 i do any few hour drives to find one im gonna do anothter sweep of all the yards nearby, my dads helping me out this time so i just may come across something, let u know if anything comes up

Do all the 200 or 250 heads have a small intake volume, as i said earlier im not really lookin for real big hp gains, maybe just a little, the power i get out of my 200 does me jjust fine, 2 spd is probly suckin a lot up though.

The one 6 ive only seen was at a place called U-Pull, it was a slant six in an 80s dodge pick-up.

DO you find a t-5 or a c4 at any pariticular place, or is it luck to find one on a engine or see one on craigslist or ebay??
It would seem like these would be a lot better than my present trans.

Eventually i will make the swap, would a 250 or a 200 with a little boost in hp, be toooo much for my 4 lug front suspension and rear-end, which originally came with the 170. I know it would be best to go to 5 lug, but if i stick a 200/250 in with a t5/c4, will that just shred my rear-end the first time i tromp the gas?Seems like a odd question but im wondering if i can do this upgrade then do the 5 lug later on, if thats the way it works out.
 
The intake volume was increased a couple times over the years.
Going from the two speed auto to a t5 would be a pretty good performance increase. You can find them on ebay do some research as there are differences in them ratio wise. There is a section on the t5 to 200 upgrade in the Falcon Manual and someone on this forum just posted a great write up on this use search to find.
I don't have any experience with 4 lug suspension but you would probably be ok with a mild 200/t5.
Also check car-part.com not carpart.com for engines and trans.
 
So merccomet...U C the importance of takin yer time w/ the research B 4 jumpin...no rush. Gather ALL the info.
Differences in final drive ratio, weights 4 different chassys, etc.
Keep talkin @ us...
 
I have to correct a misunderstanding I see here: swapping to a C4 will not reduce your cruising RPM over your Fordomatic. Both have a top gear of 1:1. The extra gear of the C4 is on the other end - a lower first. That gear would allow you to pull a numerically lower gearset, however, which would reduce your cruising RPM.

To do this by transmission alone would require an overdrive, which you can only add by swapping to the aforementioned T5, an aftermarket add-on unit (I.e. Gearvendors), or seeking out a 250 or extremely late 200 with the near V8 bolt pattern and running an AOD.

-Dave
 
merccomet":3siaikfa said:
Alright, i should get that book, sounds like to a lot of people is a really great thing to have, b4 i do any few hour drives to find one im gonna do anothter sweep of all the yards nearby, my dads helping me out this time so i just may come across something, let u know if anything comes up

Do all the 200 or 250 heads have a small intake volume, as i said earlier im not really lookin for real big hp gains, maybe just a little, the power i get out of my 200 does me jjust fine, 2 spd is probly suckin a lot up though.

The one 6 ive only seen was at a place called U-Pull, it was a slant six in an 80s dodge pick-up.

DO you find a t-5 or a c4 at any pariticular place, or is it luck to find one on a engine or see one on craigslist or ebay??
It would seem like these would be a lot better than my present trans.

Eventually i will make the swap, would a 250 or a 200 with a little boost in hp, be toooo much for my 4 lug front suspension and rear-end, which originally came with the 170. I know it would be best to go to 5 lug, but if i stick a 200/250 in with a t5/c4, will that just shred my rear-end the first time i tromp the gas?Seems like a odd question but im wondering if i can do this upgrade then do the 5 lug later on, if thats the way it works out.

Check out here for info on head volumes to casting codes: http://www.classicinlines.com/SmallSixS ... #SSgeneral
After 69 the 200 and 250 had the same specs for production year, so if you find a 200 head on a 75 engine, it would have the same valve sizes, combustion chamber size, and intake volume as a 75 250 engine.

Check these sites out for info on the T-5: http://www.5speeds.com/t5/ http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technica ... n_spec.htm
You want a World Class (WC) transmission from a 1983-93 4cyl or V8 Mustang. Stay away from the T-5s found in V6 Mustangs and later V8s because they have longer input shafts.

As for your 4-lug suspension, the front end will support the weight of a 200/250 conversion, but the rear end will only take so much torque. If you want to keep the 4-lug, you can find a rear end out of an early 6cyl Maverick. The Maverick rear end is an 8-inch using the same brakes as the 7.25 (what your vehicle has).

Definitely purchase the Falcon performance handbook.

Hope this helps.
 
Cool, i will keep an eye out for those types of mustangs, that really helps out.

If i do manage to put in a motor/trans. with a bit more torque b4 i find a diff. rear-end, just be sure not to really ram it around, which isnt that hard to do.

Get back to ya if i find something.

Thanks, Lee
 
I installed a stock 250 with a 3spd in my first 65 Mustang back in 77 without changing the original 7.25 rear end (3.20 gearing) and it stayed together ( I wasn't gentle to it either). Don't sidestep the clutch at 3000rpm and you should be fine. :lol:
 
Well, ive put in some more thought and figured since i am taking my car off the road in early november ive figured out the things that i would like to get done; I want to put in all new bearings, plan on getting the cam pkg. from CI get back to that in a sec; new rings, planning on honing the cylinder walls(good?). Cant afford to get a whole bunch of machining done due to schooling costs forcing me to run somewhat of a budget. Back to the cam stuff, was reading on CI and was curious to what u guys think, I would like to get the 110* lobe center,give a bit of lopey idle which is pretty cool :lol: but wasnt sure for the profile. I mostly do "light to light" driving maybe 30% highway. Wasnt sure which would be best and im sure you guys do. Im sure there will be more questions from me when i attempt to degree the cam, but its something i would really like to learn.

I have a close relative who runs a machine shop and used to work at a automotive one for years a while back, so i figure i can trust him to do good quality, still doing some thinking about the head, may get him to do some valve work, not overly educated on the topic of the head to what to have done, so if you guys want to inform me on anyhting that isnt "too" crazy :mrgreen: that would be cool

Not a complete rebuild but things that i'd like to have "freshened up". Let me know what you guys think of my plans so far

Thanks, Lee
 
I have a 250 that seems to have a bottom end in good condition and I just bought another 250 with D8 head. The new head will get the two barrel conversion and light port and polish and going right on the existing block in the Bronco. I will be able to see when I pull the existing head off if the cylinder walls are in decent shape. If they are I see no reason to pull the block and take it apart. My theory is if the block is sound spend money on high performance stuff. Not trying to tell you what to do just offering another perspective.
 
Thanks man, at the moment im sure that i have a main bearing knock so i figured since i would be right there that i would replace some other things, figured it couldnt hurt, and also that theres a good chance next fall that mostly all of my driving will be on the highway. Not doing any huge stuff like boreing out cylinders,just rings, bearings, and new timing stuff. Plan later on 2bbl carb and electronic ignition, but not focusing on that right now. I got noisy lifters also so figured I'd solve that also.
 
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