200 exhaust manifold & head problem

El Pajarito

Active member
Had to remove the exhaust manifold (thought it might be cracked) ended up snaping off the last bolt I was trying to remove. If I'm not able to get it out after putting heat to it and I have to remove the head...what am I looking at as far as getting everything back together and adjust right. On the plus side the manifold was not cracked.
 
You might try drilling into it from above. That's one bolt hole that goes all the way through. Drill and use an easy-out. Otherwise, drill and retap or Helicoil from the bottom. I'm sure a Helicoil kit is cheaper than most machine shops. I wound up putting another helicoil with a helicoil in mine, after the one the previous owner had in the head backed out.
 
I'm sorry..my explanation was too vague. I wish it was one of the bolts on the end that go thru. What I meant was it was the last bolt I was taking out that snapped. Its one of the top bolts just under the carb towards the rear.
 
Just be sure you don't break off the EZ out. You never drill it out then. If it seems like it wont move with the EZ out, I'd put the manifoil back on to use as a drill guide if possible, drill out the bolt and then retap it or install an helicoil like BIGREDRASA said.
 
El Pajarito":lcxky20w said:
I'm sorry..my explanation was too vague. I wish it was one of the bolts on the end that go thru. What I meant was it was the last bolt I was taking out that snapped. Its one of the top bolts just under the carb towards the rear.

OUCH! It's probably beast to pull the head, so you're not working at crazy angles, and mess it up worse. Start with small drill bits, then increase size of hole in the bolt. Be sure to centerpunch before drilling. Luck!
 
If you can't back it out with penetrating oil bath and EZ out, you'll have to drill it out. In that event, start with a small bit, like 1/8" or so. Make a dimple in the middle of the offending member so the bit won't wander off center. Then drill the hole out with successively larger bits until you are almost at the stud diameter. Then follow it with a tap to renew the threads. If it is scored too large, then you will have to helicoil the hole.
 
Been there, done that. I had to drill it out completely from the other side, and use a nut from above to hold it in place. Ugly stuff. :shock:
 
page62":38hbuul6 said:
Been there, done that. I had to drill it out completely from the other side, and use a nut from above to hold it in place. Ugly stuff. :shock:

I'm doing that with my carb adaptor right now - stripped out a mounting hole on the carb side.
 
Old-school trick: Heating it and applying beeswax to it. The melted wax gets pulled into the threads and lubes them.

Sometimes, at least.
 
:D Get a good set of LEFT HAND drill bits.Sometimes,the heat from drilling will cause the offending piece to back itself out.Soak it well with your choice of brand of penetrating oil first.
Leo
 
a little trick i learned working at a header shop. weld a washer to the broken bolt, then weld a bolt to the washer. From there just back it out slowly
 
You could weld a stud onto the end of the broken bolt (so that there's enough stud coming out of the manifold for a nut afterwards) and just have one stud and the rest bolts. You might have to do a little grinding to make sure that the manifold will clear the weld around the base. If there's enough meat on the bolt stickin' out of the head I think that would work great. =) Is that idea a little too good to be true...?
 
Wilhelmus":2zmrn9cx said:
You could weld a stud onto the end of the broken bolt (so that there's enough stud coming out of the manifold for a nut afterwards) and just have one stud and the rest bolts. You might have to do a little grinding to make sure that the manifold will clear the weld around the base. If there's enough meat on the bolt stickin' out of the head I think that would work great. =) Is that idea a little too good to be true...?

It's better to use a washer around the area that the bolt is broken. if its not sticking out at all, you can hold the washer there and fill it in with a bead, then weld a bolt to the side of the washer,


works every time
 
I just took my head to a machine shop they in it in 2 hours for 50 bucks and then cleaned ALL the treads/holes
 
Back
Top