200 inline hi rpm problems

[Anonymous]

ok guys ive got a 82ttop mustang w/ a 200 inline 6 " oviously or else i wouldnt be here" so my problem is this

when you rev it up to about 3k and hold it you can watch the r's drop slowly and when its cold it wont even rev to 3k

secondly when its under a load it wont even rev past 2k and has no power to even move its self out of its own way

third in park under no load you rev it to 3k " when you can get it to rev to 3k" or you just stick your foot in it it or try to take it past that it makes this horid baaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh sound

this is what ive alredy done to try and remidy things

full tune up " witch isnt evpensive so i started there"
result
no beter than befor
took it to a shop
result
he said he thought it had jumped a tooth in the timing assembly " but he couldnt be sure with out tearing into it
so i did the timing set
result
no beter than befor
next i did a carb rebuild "since it had sat for like 6 years befor i bought it "
result
no beter than befor if not a little worse " carb needs to be fine tuned now"
next i did the coil " may be it not hot enough at high r's"
result
no beter than befor


so i got on a couple forums and asked a few questions and posted almost this same things there and the administrator is a ASE certified mechanic he said that from the sounds of it and the discription i gave that it was most likly a pluged cat and exaust

what do you inline speacilist think since it is a inline i thought i should consult you as well

please help this is my daily driver and it has been down now for 6 weeks and i hate depending on other to get to and from work

 

[Funky Cricket]

May be plugged cats, depending on your emissions laws just stright pipe around them (you want to do this anyway if you can) or at least shake them, if they rattle a bunch they are bad and this may be your problem.

or, your valve springs are shot and and your valves are just starting to float but the slow loss of rpms is saying this prolly isn't it.

new cap and rotor I assumed came with the tune up? and you verified your timing when you installed the new timing set?

no major vacum leaks with the carb?

 

[JackFish]

I agree with the exhaust system check, and also a compression test.
I pulled the cat on mine and have new pipes and muffler out the back, and the thermactor system was removed long ago. runs great.
Your thermactor is probably melted given it's age, and could be removed, if legal.
Leaking vacuums, like the EGR valve...
Maybe time for a new PCV valve too, cheap insurance.
I agree with the mechanic to replace the timing chain, make sure you get the double-roller from FSPP if you've got $100.
Failing fuel pump also comes to mind.
Good Luck!
:wrench: :smash:

 

[Anonymous]

if it is the cats than you would hear it in the exhaust. if you run the car for a while does it stall out. if so then it is the cats. an easy way to check would be to disconnect the exhaust in front of the cats and see if performance improves. if it does there is your problem. Also check your timing. if it is retarded than you wont have any power and in the end high r's wont exist. make sure that it is advanced. i have foud that around 12 to 15 degrees advance is the best.

 

[Anonymous]

I agree with the exhaust system check, and also a compression test.
I pulled the cat on mine and have new pipes and muffler out the back, and the thermactor system was removed long ago. runs great.
Your thermactor is probably melted given it's age, and could be removed, if legal.
Leaking vacuums, like the EGR valve...
Maybe time for a new PCV valve too, cheap insurance.
I agree with the mechanic to replace the timing chain, make sure you get the double-roller from FSPP if you've got $100.
Failing fuel pump also comes to mind.
Good Luck!
:wrench: :smash:

i did a new fuel pump a couple of month ago and a new filter so i dont think it is a fuel problem

 

[Anonymous]

I agree with the exhaust system check, and also a compression test.
I pulled the cat on mine and have new pipes and muffler out the back, and the thermactor system was removed long ago. runs great.
Your thermactor is probably melted given it's age, and could be removed, if legal.
Leaking vacuums, like the EGR valve...
Maybe time for a new PCV valve too, cheap insurance.
I agree with the mechanic to replace the timing chain, make sure you get the double-roller from FSPP if you've got $100.
Failing fuel pump also comes to mind.
Good Luck!
:wrench: :smash:

what the hell is a thermactor : never heard of one of those befor and my car is older there for it doesnt require emissions testing so i disconected the smog stuff awhile ago " not to long befor all this started maybe i should pull the egr and have it welded or fill it with jb weld"

the thermactor is that the octigonal can thingy conected to the colector at the bottom of the exaust manifold

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Ttops:

Several things came to mind as I read your description. Several have been mentions, but to ennumerate; Plugged exhaust, bad timing mark on the crank damper, the cam has gone south, restriction in the fuel line some place; kinked line, plugged filter, weak fuel pump, plugged fuel tank vent, bad gas.

You said it sat for a long time before you got it. Why? way this part of the hibernation?

Do you have the exhaust manifold with the quiklit can Cat attached directly to the exhaust manifold? If you do you may have to remove it to inspect. The other one can be replaced with a tempory test pipe to assess the problem.

This is a nice mystery. We are in the midst of surveying cams and drive parts for the '80 and later 200. expecially cam timing. Please keep us posted with your progress.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Howdy Ttops:

Several things came to mind as I read your description. Several have been mentions, but to ennumerate; Plugged exhaust, bad timing mark on the crank damper, the cam has gone south, restriction in the fuel line some place; kinked line, plugged filter, weak fuel pump, plugged fuel tank vent, bad gas.

You said it sat for a long time before you got it. Why? way this part of the hibernation?

Do you have the exhaust manifold with the quiklit can Cat attached directly to the exhaust manifold? If you do you may have to remove it to inspect. The other one can be replaced with a tempory test pipe to assess the problem.

This is a nice mystery. We are in the midst of surveying cams and drive parts for the '80 and later 200. expecially cam timing. Please keep us posted with your progress.

Adios, David

i wish it was part of hibernation the lady i bought it from parked it after she got a 94 it was last registered in 96 when i got it but i drove it for a year and a half befor all this started . so thats what that thing is attached to the exaust manifold i was wondering just hadnt look it up in the book yet
please dont tell me i need to pull the crank pully/ dampner again " isnt it also known as a harmonic balancer "
i did a fuel pump and filter
i was kinda hopeing it wasnt the cam but that was my next big job if all else fails
ill check the tank vent ill just open the gas cap and bad gas shouldnt still be in the tank since ive been driving it for some time now i only did the carb rebuild cause it had sat for a while and some thing might have finnaly come lose and pluged a jet

and finnally i got some one to ask this question to that will most likly know the answer

how big of a cam can i put in her w/out changing every thing else

i found only one maker of cams for my motor "but you guys probably know of more" they only had two different cams one was alittle bigger than stock the other was a monster " i dont have the specs any more but i can get them if need be " can i put the smaller cam in with out changing pistons, rods , valves or any thing else

 

[addo]

There's a few cam makers who can supply to suit: Isky, Crane, Comp, Clay Smith, Crow. Degreeing the cam is extrememly important as accuracy of centring by just lining up the dots has been proven poor.

You would need to change the valve springs to suit. A hotter cam will require you to re-curve the DS-II but that's no so hard to do.

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

There's a few cam makers who can supply to suit: Isky, Crane, Comp, Clay Smith, Crow. Degreeing the cam is extrememly important as accuracy of centring by just lining up the dots has been proven poor.

You would need to change the valve springs to suit. A hotter cam will require you to re-curve the DS-II but that's no so hard to do.

Regards, Adam.

so what your telling me is that just lineing up the dots " like it said in the book and the replacement part sheet is not enough "so what else do i do to insure that ive lined every thing up correctly
and about my exaust manifold with the cat attached do i have to replace that manifold if i want to do away with the cat or do i just remove all the crap from the inside so that it flows better or do i have to fabricate another piece so that i can hook my exaust back up

damb i dont want to tear every thing down again what a pain in the ass it is with it still in the car and mine has a/c so theres more shit in the way

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back:

Take one thing at a time. 1st verify that there isn't some other problem in the fuel supply side, other than pump and filters. Then, remove the cat converters and verify that they are not restricted. To replace that system, you will need an earlier exhaust manifold or a header, and appropriated eshaust system. Fuel supply or exhaust are my strongest suspicsions.

Next, verify that the timing mark on the harmonic balancer/damper is truely indicative of top dead center on the #1 cylinder. Sometimes the outer timing mark ring can slip on on the rubber sandwiched in between.

Lastly, I would check with Mike at FSPP on a cam for a mild street engine. If you select the appropriate cam for your situation you will not need to to change anything else. If you have an auto trans and you will stay under 5.000 rpm, you should be ok. Addo makes a good suggestion on degreeing the cam to insure that it is in the right place to suit your engine. I believe Mike has a video on that topic too. Mike also has a double roller timing chain set for your application.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

woooo hoooooo its fixed , it was the cat that is conected to the exaust manifold just took it off and beat the rest of it out with a hammer and flat head screwdriver bolted every thing back up and its back to the old mustang" all 87 hp of it" but the ttops make up for the lack of hp in style

ill post more later got to get to work