200ci Carburation Issues

[Anonymous]

Well,

I just finished reading about my problem here is the forums. But my issue is a little different.

My engine was rebuilt around a 1972 Ford 200ci block because my previous block was cracked. I installed a new cam from clifford and did all the adjustments, I also have a petronix electronic distro. Along with the basic engine stuff, I purchased a 500cfm Holley carb to sit atop my beast!!.. haha.javascript:emoticon('')

I had some basic problems with tooth allignment of my distro but I've sorted that out.

I got the engine finally running with the 500cfm Holley, but it was really bogged down and wouldn't accelerate at all. Plus, a thick haze of white smoke or fog was billowing from my exhaust. I decided that I should put my original carb back on and get the car broken in with that one. I re-attached the old carb and turned over the engine, a fountain of gasoline flooded out of a angled pipe inside the throttle body. I remembered that i removed what i think was a presure regulator from the inlet fitting.. it was a brass thing with some plastic thing on the side that goes into the carb inlet. So I purchased a $20 fuel regulator at Pepboys and hooked it up.. now it doesn't fountain as long as the psi is below 2.

The engine starts now and runs with the choke wide open and full throttle. Needless to say, it doesn't idle very well.javascript:emoticon('')

I need to check my valves because I don't thing they are pre-loaded correctly.

Looking for some sugestions on what carb settings to use like jets and power valves for my 500cfm.. or should I just buy a 350cfm?

And.. what's the best way to hook up that carb with the linkage towards the front of the engine?

And... should I get a new timing gear set with adjustable advance for my cam?

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Well,

I remembered that i removed what i think was a presure regulator from the inlet fitting.. it was a brass thing with some plastic thing on the side that goes into the carb inlet.

That sounds like the needle thats what is atached to the float to shut the fuel off when the carb gets full. Its got to have one of those.. with out that there is nothing to shut the flow of fuel off entering the carb so thats why it was flowing out the vent pipe..
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

Okay,

Well if I need one of these needles... whese can i get one that attaches externally... this one looked like a bass fitting that was around 1 inch long.

Any ideas?

 

[Anonymous]

Hey David,
Are you talking about a brass cannister type thing that ran at the end of the fuel line? If so that is not what Tim is referring to. That cannister is an inline fuel filter and you can get one at any autoparts store, but I don't know if that could cause what you are describing.

The needle Tim is referring to is inside the Carb and the float actually touches the end of it to raise it up and cut the fuel when the bowl gets full.

I had a similar problem with gas squirting out of the carb body, but I think it was all to do with heat. I could lessen it by lowering the float, but to cure it I had to make it run richer. I did 8 million other things at the same time so there is no telling what the real cure was! One of the things I did do was to replace the fuel pump, which really improved starting.

Hope this is of some help.

Scott

 

[Anonymous]

The fitting was attached to the outside of the carb.. it's not a filter. Today I actually adjusted the valves and it runs okay now with the 500cfm carb. I can't drive it much because i don't have any linkage. But it will only run with the choke wide open, and I think it needs to be tuned severly.

I'm going to get new jets and a smaller 30cc AccPump tomorrow... any ideas for jet size?

And the car sounds like it's rattleing like loose valves... but i tightened the adjuster rockers today to spec.. any ideas about that??

 

[JackFish]

And the car sounds like it's rattleing like loose valves... but i tightened the adjuster rockers today to spec.. any ideas about that??

Noisy fuel pump :

 

[Anonymous]

Fuel Pump!!! nice.. haven't thought of that one.

I'll check... i have 2 extra ones i pulled of my 72' block... i'll try one of those and see if that works... my current fuel pump has the filter ontop... i'll try this one for now and order a OEM one from the Paddock.

Keep the info comming... thanks

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Timming maybe
exhaust gasket leak can sound like lifters as well.
Pictures if you can well help
tim

 

[robbinsj]

My rattle turned out to be the exhaust port divider that had come loose. Rattles under acceleration and hard deceleration, quiet during cruise.
-Joey

 

[wsa111]

David, the holley carb needs 6-8# of fuel pressure to just function right.

Check the float level & make sure it is right, other than that, just put #71 main jets in the carb that will get you in the ballpark.

Leave the 50cc accerator pump on the carb, You might have to go up to a .031 accerator pump discharge nozzle if you have any hesitation on acceration problems. William

 

[Anonymous]

Fuel flowing through the vent tube is almost always a float issue. Very common for a piece of trash to get lodged between the needle and seat. A float set too high can cause this symptom also, but with having changed the carb i would suspect the former.
Remove carb, unscrew and lift off top of carb body, the float sytem works like a toilet bowl tank. When the bowl fills, the float rises pushing the needle valve into the seat stopping the fuel flow. Pretty easy job on a 1 bbl carb. Although very often tapping the carb smartly where the fuel enters the carb will dislodge the trash and cure the ill. However if the float has a hole or the needle is damaged or dislodged this won't help.
This is especially fun on a motorcycle when ths gas flows out the throat and runs down onto the hot engine and exhaust pipe. Easier to get home on the bike though as you can simply turn the petcock off and on and keep the fuel from overflowing.