250-2v mod on mustang 66

dawnovsky

Well-known member
sorry about that, I m unable to post picture as there are too big.
admin please delete this post.
I ll post again as soon i'll figure out how to reduce those picture

I 've now almost finished the installation of my recently rebuilt 250-2v head on my 200 1966 ford mustang;
Here s a few pics of the process.
i ve been happy and surprise as everything went perfectly the first time. i was expecting much more resistance from this 45 years old piece of cast iron.

jobs done before swapping heads :
- Duraspark2 ignition upgrade to rid of the LOM dizzy and adress the lack of spark control valve on holey carb.


The old 200 head coming out of the car.


After a bit of cleaning with scoth brit, new gasket and guides are into place (guides mades with old head bolts cutted out)


250-2v australian head coming in


With headers from classic inlines in position. this 6-in-2 fell prefectly on the 66 with a bit more than a inch of clearance with shoch tower. no needs to remove the starter.
Torquing those bolts is really tricky. standar socket and torque wrench can't make it. I did it with a pipe wrench. I hope the torquing will be good enought.
If someone had figured a way to torque it properly ...



more pics will come soon
 
Good luck, I can't help much.

The link needs the right HTML framework for the hosting service to do its thing. I choose not to use other systems because I value my time not to waste it learning something I won't use.


In my Photobucket system, its different to your set-up.

First, your link can be accessed anytime as http://ubuntuone.com/2Tb59JSNyhGRViVlka7S4P

Here is your link saved on my Photobucket account. Click on it, and it'll show without getting an

xctasy":32k7blbw said:
Your images may only be up to 450 pixels high.
Your images may only be up to 600 pixels wide
message

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc5 ... _55_22.jpg

If you add a right square bracket img left square bracket your url and a left square braket forward slash img right square bracket around it, it shows an image too big for FordSix Performances web hosting limits, and it tells you so in big words in the user control panel before it will accept your post.


The syntax that makes the image small on display and grow to full size on clicking, is here, and in the case of photobucket, the "th_" prefix before the ".jpg"part allows the image to be down sized enough.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc5 ... _55_22.jpg
with right square bracket img left square bracket your url and a left square braket forward slash img right square bracket around it

becomes

th_2012-03-1709_55_22.jpg



Adding the orginal link with the "th_" part, and a few other HTML tricks gives you






If you copy it, and follow the posting rules, it might just work for you.


Using your link

[/img]http://ubuntuone.com/th_2Tb59JSNyhGRViVlka7S4P[/img]

that doesn't work too well, but its a start for you.

I'm a programmer, but I hate this stuff, it takes a little discipline, and for you to not be afraid of getting it wrong a few times to learn it. Just like all good languages, the person prepared to just have a go and see what comes out of it learns to love it a little more each day...
 
thanks mate.
I ve open a photobucket album and i'll use your trick. regards
btw how do you make the picture growing when clicked ?

F.
 

intake and holley 350 installed


with 9" air filter, clearance is about an Inch with brace and shower tower and no clearance isue notied between hood and air filter (low profile). Wiring of the mechanical choke has not been done yet (not needed in an endless summer country) but will be tricky (choke arm will have to be modify as well as cable bracket)

Throttle actuation require lot imagination and the biggest modification of the whole swap. After having considered many different options (full lokar cable and pedal conversion (too expensive, not looking like stock), 66 V8 pedal + cable (good looking but possible problem as cable as to be fixed to the block), 69 pedal with underdash connected cable (no provision for C4 kickdown) i choose to go the easy way. I have to cut the original likage right after the 90 degres elbow in order to make room for the header (this header does not fit car with originial throttle linkage (mustang)). I have found a kickdown lever and installed it upside down just befor the original linkage elbow. this plus a shortened lokar cable and the original 200 1100 carb return spring did the trick perfectly. I can get a full throttle travel with a pedal just a bit higher that normal. this might be addressed later by modifying lever (make it a few cm longer).
It from far the easiest option i have been able to imagine, it look stock either from inside the cabin and under the hood, use original pedal and throttle, and save time. I use a cable as I have one from lokar (there are expensive but really good quality. fitting, bracket, etc makes it easy to connect to almost anything) but the slightly modified V8 rod could be use as weel . it should give a more solid feeling on the pedal.
 
Real nice. Well done

The great thing is that Ford Australia had so much trouble packaging the 250 2V 170 HP combo...it had the thinest air cleaner they could get, just 1.53" tall, but then they had to make it a larger diameter to get enough air flow, and that left no room for even an external snorkel. Ryco still make a replacement. The 10.2" diameter, I think.

The Aussies went right away from the rod linkage way before 1965, so all the bits Mike designed that make a 2v Mustang are a kind of odd hotch potch of newer stuff in the Classic Mustang mould. The results are quite stunning though... the normal 67 hp at the rear bags suddenly sees another 40 hp without even trying if the ignition and jetting and compression ratio are good.
 
I does not have the chance to really try it on the road to see how hard it can go as i don't have think about how to connect exhaust line before installing the head. Kinda stupid, i know.
Classic inlines option look great, but rate for shipping to my destination is insane
 
Forgot to mention that i was also really surpised when i first crank the engine to see it starts without any problems and idle smooth immediately.
I can still remember the mess it was when i have rebuilted the 1100 carb a few years ago. Long hours of approximation before getting a decent tunning and barely smooth idle.
I can't tell if it's from the head itself or the carb, or more probably from both, but it erally make a big difference.
I m dying to try it on the road.
 
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