250 carb input

[shocker998md]

Alright 200 guys I need some input. I've put a 250 in my wife's 69 falcon. I put a holley 200 carb on it because it looked clean. Once it got some fuel it was weeping out of the base gasket and it won't squirt any fuel when I cracked the throttle. So I'm torn on what route to go.

1. Rebuild this carb and hope for the best to get the engine running but I don't know when the last time it ran was.

2. See if advance can get a carb.

3.?

I don't have my 200 6 cylinder performance book with me so I don't remember what the recommended carb is. So far all the 250 carbs I've seen are cable operated so those are out since my falcon has all the throttle linkage. If I replace my carb what carb should I look for? This is my wife's car, so all it has to do is drive. She drives a hot rod the same as a stock 6 cylinder so I just want an easy starting smooth running set up. The only last thing is the shorter the carb the better. The 250 sits 1.5 inches higher so I'm fighting air cleaner to hood clearance.

Any input guys?

 

[chad]

wish U used the help B4 the instalation…
I'll tackle 1 as those R 2 big Qs.

I'm headed 2 bed so will try frm memory & not access my listings rite now:
1) U can go back & slot or egg out (verticle) the motor mounts to lower the motor,
2) use late Mav mounts'n towers,
3) drop base A/C housing or other A/C changes (remote, carb hat, etc)
4) hood scoop,
2 or 3 more but headin out

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Shocker:

And welcome to the forum. FYI the stock factory carb for a '69 falcon with a 250 engine is a Carter RBS. It is a very low profile carb and was used on Falcons, Mavericks and Comets with a 250 engine until the 1975 model year.

The RBS I've got is a side pull, but I don't know what it is from. It is a much simplier carb than a Holley #1946.

IIWIYS, I'd try to chase down an RBS and go from there. IF that's a no go I'd consider rebuilding the Holley. The Holley #1946 is taller than an RBS so check that out first.

Adios, David

 

[Econoline]

You need a Carter RBS or an Autolite 1101 for a 250. If I have time I will post a pic tomorrow showing how I managed the linkage on my van. It's likely very similar to the falcon. If you don't mind a manual choke one of the variable jet universal daytona carbs may be a good option. The issue with the linkage is that the pivot is on the coolant carb spacer, so you will need to modify that spacer to work on the 1.75" carb flange or make one, as I did.

 

[shocker998md]

I've read 250 swap stuff before and it just kind of wave tops it.

I slotted my engine mounts to lower it, found a small fan spacer and 4 blade fan.

Linkage wise I had to make a plate and stud set up because the carb adapter from a 200 with the stud wouldn't fit the 250 head.

I'm going to search in my buddies inventory to see if there's an autolite 1100. I wish I remembered what holley is on it right now but I dont.

It definitely has been a trial and error deal with this 250 swap. Hopefully it will be worth it vs the 200. I wanted to use a 250 I had taking up space and figured because of it being an auto the 50 cubes should help it.

 

[shocker998md]

Alright so right now I have a holley 1909 on it. I'm going to try and clean it and try messing with it tomorrow. I found two auto lite carbs and maybe two would make one.

As of right now I'm just hoping to start the engine. I haven't seen it run yet and don't want to sink money in a ds2 and new carb to find out it runs aweful. When I tore it down it all looked decent though and passed a leak down test.

Here's the head. I figured I'd show what I had since I had spacer, carb, linkage issues.

 

[shocker998md]

Here's what I made to work, it's ugly but works for now



And here's the size of the adapter I'm using with the holley

 

[shocker998md]

I'm still torn on what way I should go with it. It seems locally advance can't get a carb so rock auto is the cheapest route for a carb. I'm just wondering if I will get all messed up with carb adapter and linkage issues with a different carb.

I don't want to sink 2 barrel webber money into it right now.

 

[chad]

weber is pretty complicated, hold off on that 4 now (i'd say 4 me anyway).
Nothing there is ugly 2 me, I luv anything w/6 cyl (esp all the different
"Falcon" motors but - slant 6 is a goodun too).

U have a great VC as it has the bracket 4 a cable carb actuater.

Best of all U have the famous (again 2 me) "M" head.
Better runners, volume AND the flat log which
is the best 4 milling 4 a 2v carb - all way
off in any plan if even desired…

If goin 4 a new carb I use car-parts dot com. Everything 10 yrs or older
goes to the crusher so not much used. They will do a national
search 4 u.

 

[Econoline]

I've read 250 swap stuff before and it just kind of wave tops it.

I slotted my engine mounts to lower it, found a small fan spacer and 4 blade fan.

Where did you find the smaller fan spacer? Btw, you've done the other option I was going to mention, which is fabbing a pivot mount using the 2 bolt holes aft in the intake log. I would maybe cut out that section near the connecting linkage, looks like it's cocked out quite a bit from the side of the head. It looks like it could cause a bind. If you are really pressed for space, the 1/2-5/8" spacer needed to mimic the factory linkage mount may be to much. But it does give you a phenolic spacer at the same time.

Here's what I did,

[image]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/921/l3B38f.jpg[/image]

That is an RBS, as you can see the linkage connection is nearly the same as the 1100. I made a 5/8" spacer out of a peice of phenolic and drilled and tapped a hole, 1/4-20 iirc, for the pivot from the old 170 carb spacer. Good luck

And just fyi, carb base to air cleaner mount(bottom) on the RBS is around 4 3/8", the autolite is around 3 3/4", so it's about 5/8" taller. A YF is around 5 3/16". I'm tight for space on mine as well, I cut the connecting snout on my aircleaner as close as I could and still have clearance to the carb. Also, the mustang, and likely maverick, 250 air cleaners are very low profile. I have one for sale if you're interested. Ended up I couldn't use it after I painted it and put on a cool '250 Ford' sticker b/c despite my eyeball, it didn't fit in the dog house.

[image]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/OlBOpK.jpg[/image]

[image]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/KppY0J.jpg[/image]

[image]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/IKPg3F.jpg[/image]

I'm only familiar with the 1100 I had on my old 170 and my advise is free, so take it for what it's worth but this RBS is far and away a better carb than my 1100 was.

 

[chad]

Pic are great! and yours are some of the best, Seth!
Never thought of bringin a Lockar around from the front. Did U do that just cuz the van's access is different from sedans?
And the linkage is "rod at the carb"? The phenolic machining is s step beyond some of us (but we have a bridgeport here).

Next - I C 2 vacuum hoses? 1 to the pcv, 1 to the distrib? I have 2 nipples/barbs (@ back, pass side of my RBS). Which go where?

Lastly - didn't know U had the "M"…is a 2v in ur future?

Thanx!

CU next year!

 

[Econoline]

the throttle bit there pulls to the aft and that was the easiest place to mount it with a bracket to the dog house. It works well.

You'll have to post a pic Chad, those 2 you see are the only vacuum ports on the carb. If you have more, I'd cap all but those 2 for the distributor and the pcv. The 3rd hose there is off the manifold for the brake booster.

It's interesting that his C9 head has the Ford emblem and mine has the FoMoCo, must be a later casting, mine is from a '70 Mustang. I have a D5 head a local member gave me when he moved I'll be using for a future 2v upgrade. That one will get hardened seats, if they aren't already, SI port flow valves, 300 springs and autolite/holley 2v mods.

 

[chad]

OK, I thought I saw an "M" at the end of the 'string' (didn't ck the rest) and a V E R Y flat log…
If U go that route (machine it 4 direct mount) make sure to 'fill' before machining. There's some serious damage
done (search the pic that several folks have posted here) rather than enhancements & I think that's how the more professional
results were achieved...

 

[shocker998md]

Well I ran it today. I'm really thinking of picking up an rbs carb and a cable set up. And make an adapter like you did.

Then I'll definitely work on a ds2 setup with an hei 4 pin moduel and it should run like a dream. 25 psi hot oil pressure at idle, it runs good for a beat 250 that I put a gasket kit, timing chain, and oil pump in.

 

[Econoline]

The throttle is the oem rod set up from the pedal. If you have the old 'heated' carb base you have the pivot part. It looks like yours has been welded onto that bar. I have the oem 250 cable mount and carb linkage if you need it. The last bit. I couldn't use it. The cable there is the tv pressure cable for the transmission

I made that spacer in a wood shop with an old rem from a boeing auction. It came from a 1" scrap piece. You could use wood if you had to. sapele or purple heart would be good. Any solid dense wood, walnut would be good i'll bet, but it's the machining part that requires something very dense. Walnut may not be up the task unless it's a good piece and done well

 

[shocker998md]

I work avaition airframes repair so I can get p block all day.

I was looking at the lokar cable kits and I think it will hook right up to the rod in the engine bay

 

[Econoline]

Well there you go. Yeah, it may be different with the Lokar cable in a car. There was already a hole in the arm in the right spot on the oem linkage and it turned out to be the right spot, I opened it up a bit, made a bracket and mounted it there. I wish everyday was like that.