2V Heat Sink Problem

[jahearne]

I have a heat sink problem. It floods real bad such as trying to get back on the road after refueling. The other day while adjusting the wet float level as I turned the motor off, the fuel just boils right out into the venturis on a warm engine. I watched the entire contents boil away in two or so minutes. I have less than a 1/2 inch air cleaner hood clearance. There are two aluminum adaptors on it, one is the two barrel adaptor and the other is the Autolite adaptor. No luck find a carburetor heat shield for a two barrel; plenty out there for a four barrel. So, I'm thinking of getting a machinst to recreate the two barrel and the Autolite adaptor into one, which will give me plenty of room for a phenolic spacer. Or having the Autolite adaptor drilled out of a phenolic spacer...

Until I get this fixed all my mileage calculations & drivability tests are out the door.



This is the two barrel adaptor; the Autolite adaptor bolts to it. And here's the head with no adaptors:



A side view with carb and adaptors bolted up:


The two barrel adaptor is painted blue, so it's kind of hard to see.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63483

 

[bubba22349]

There is a thicker Ford 2V carb base gasket mid 70's up is about 1/4 to 3 /8 thick it might help. You could also make a heat shield out of Alum sheet stock too.

 

[jahearne]

Thanks bubba I'll use that thicker gasket for sure. I've been working on cutting out a heat shield. Thanks

 

[Soldmy66]

I believe there is a multi-layered aluminum sheet material available to use as a heat shield for starter motors that might be used for this purpose.

 

[jahearne]

Cool, I'll look into it.

 

[Soldmy66]

Mr. Gasket offers starter heat shields used to protect starters from the high exhaust manifold temperatures. They are made from two sheets of rigid aluminum with a heat-resistant material sandwiched in between, and you might be able to use that material as a carb heat shield. I don't know (havn't looked) if anyone offers that type of material off the shelf.

 

[MPGmustang]

just throwing it out there, but remember to keep everything as 'cool' as possible before it gets to the carb, so the gas line and air will help, also make sure you have no exhaust leaks. if possible, run your heater hoses on the driver side of engine, it will help.

Like others have mentioned, a 1/2-3/4 non-metalic carb spacer/riser should help keep the carb cooler also.

one last thing, make sure your running a 195* t-stat, if it's too low the rad won't cool enough and you'll just run hot and takes longer to cool down. with 195* t-stat these engines show more power.

 

[jimlj66]

I have not tried it, so I don't know for sure if it will work, but I have been told the white (plastic??) cutting boards you can buy can be cut to make a good gasket/spacer. I've been told they will hold up to the heat, insluate the carburetor and hold up to fuel. If you do try it, let us know if it works

 

[Falcon-O-Tron]

I have a piece of 3/4" phelonic sheet. If you want, I can measure it to make sure it's enough for a 2V.
Just pay shipping.

Edit: I made a 1V to 2V adapter using two pieces stacked btw.

 

[jahearne]

Thanks for the offer. Easier to just buy one than make it. I'm going to get one from ClassicInlines and take it to a machine shop had have them drill the holes out for an Autolite adaptor. I tried but having a hard time securing the adaptor in my drill press and already ruined one. And thanks for all the ideas eveyone!

 

[Gene Fiore]

Been there...done that...Yeah the aluminum adaptor that is bolted to the head for the 2 barrel conversion gets pretty hot...not to mention the carb is hanging out right above the headers. I had enough clearance to put a 1/2 thick phenolic spacer between the aluminum adaptor and the carb and that has help out alot. Sounds like you're headed in the right direction.

 

[jahearne]

Thanks Gene! I figured I wasn't the only one 2v out there. My headers are wrapped, so that helps a bit. No port divider... I wonder if that would help with the heat, but it's a small bit of metal so I doubt it would help much. Get more heat desipation with phenolic space, thicker gaskets & heat shield, etc.

 

[jahearne]

Finally, did it up right! Spent all day yesterday, drilling out the phenolic adaptor from CI, tuning up the engine and fine tuning the carb. It runs great! Just about solved the heat sink problem by using the phenolic adaptor and 3/8" thick gasket that bubba suggested. And still have hood clearance, barely. I think that if I used an aluminum heat shield that would completely eliminate the heat sink problem.

Before:


After:


It no longer floods, doesn't run-on, diesel, shuts off quitely and starts right up agian. After a long drive, it will hestitate to start when hot right after shutting down. The Autolite 2100 ran much better; however, I tried my luck with a $30 Motorcraft, a pair purchased from "The Frenchtown Flyer", which ran even better! The Ranchero runs like a top now! once I removed all the extra do-dads, adjusted the fuel level, replaced the cracked accelerator pump and gave it more travel that eliminated a small hesitation. Wow, what a difference. The Motorcraft 1.08 venturi that came with 50 jets idles smooth... the idle screws are out 3+ turns. I was told the later carbs idle circuit runs lean. I think I'll try next size up jets.

260 mile round trip averaging 19 mpg @ 70 to 80 mph.

 

[bubba22349]

Congrats on getting very close

 

[jahearne]

Congrats on getting very close

Thanks!

 

[roghax85]

beautiful job,

do you have more pictures and maybe a video?

Thanks

 

[62Ranchero200]

There is a thicker Ford 2V carb base gasket mid 70's up is about 1/4 to 3 /8 thick it might help. You could also make a heat shield out of Alum sheet stock too.

Bubba,

Do you have a link or vendor and part no for that thick gasket? I searched the sources I know (auto parts sources like OReilly, classic car vendors) and found gaskets, but not thick ones.

Thanks
Bob

 

[bubba22349]

I used to go to the NAPA dealer and look at their catalog sorry don't remember any part numbers. I think Victor was one of the big suppliers but it could have been a NAPA brand too. They were used on most of the Ford V8's with a Motorcraft 2V carb from 1975 up You might also specify California Emissions. In these carb kits (Mikes Carbs) you can see what one of them looks like, this was the most common one. I don't remember what year had the thickest one but would be later maybe 79 or early 80's

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Motorcr ... p/4360.htm

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Motorcr ... p/4085.htm

 

[Anonymous]

Interesting post. I thought I had a preignition problem with my 2V but when I checked the timing it was ok. One of my fellow club members told me that the 2V's and 2501Vs suffered from heat sink causing the dieseling after I turn the ignition off. He told me that one of the issues is that as they diesel the needle opens and closes allowing more fuel in which exacerbates the problem.